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Revell 32 Ford Coupe


69H.O.Firebird

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This was built on a dare from a dear friend of mine who passed away a few years ago. His name was Scott Davidson who owned a hobby shop here called Fine Scale Hobbies. He dared me to build a model & enter it in the 1997 NNL East Special Theme Class. I built it, it won it. Very proud of that. I opened the doors & trunk. Scratch built & kit bashed a lot of the suspension. There is "Glass" rolled down in the doors. The engine is a ford from a late model mustang kit. I wanted an all ford hot rod. Notice the ford part numbers on the mufflers. I scratch built the intake & used carbs from a corvette grand sport kit. A lot of small scratch built parts on the engine. It has removable dipstick, turned aluminum stacks, fuel pressure gauge, wired & plumbed. The grill is PE with a wired cooling fan behind it. Steering column is turned aluminum. Real wood steering wheel with PE spokes. Flocked interior. Paint is boyds aluma coupe yellow over yellow primer. It was built in 1996 & still looks good. I'm sure that I forgot something but here are some pics.

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Excellent job, Bruce. Having built real streetrods, I can appreciate the final look of the car. Some of the pics look like the real thing. The key on the roof is the cherry on the sundae. We would have liked to follow this build here, to learn some of your techniques. Attention to detail is outstanding. Did you have a 1:1 car to follow or maybe some photos? I'm going to have to try that yellow on yellow base. Did you use a gray or white primer? Did I say I love streetrods? And yours is really nice.

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Ted, Yes I too have restored some cars. A couple of tips that I have learned over time are; Use a micrometer or calipers to measure your scale wiring & hoses. Nothing looks more out of place than heater hose sized spark plug wires! Also I used 2 kits for the body. One was used to cut the body away from the doors & trunk. The second was used to cut the doors & trunk out of the body. I hope you get the idea. You want perfect doors & trunk from one body and a perfect body from the other. That method results in very tight seams when closed. Scribing with a blade takes away too much material and you get gaps. The brass hidden hinges took hours to perfect and hide. No easy solution there. I did not take pics during the build. The base coat was yellow under the boyds yellow. Bill, I have not gone all out on a kit since then. I'm thinking of doing the 1/8 32 highboy next with a flathead. I always wanted to detail one of those. Imagine this, scale gaskets! My wife thinks i'm nuts!

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I'm with you, Bruce. I firmly believe in the correct scale for items. I thought I was being too 'detailed', so it's good to hear others feel the same way.

When I started modeling in the '60s, the two-body door cutting was the norm. I would bet most of the builders today never heard of it. Maybe it was the kit manufacturers who came up with the idea to sell more of them! Do you cut the doors on body A outside of the lines and then cut the doors on body B inside the lines? Then, cut and file the doors and body B so that they fit tightly?

Maybe you should post a how-to thread on it.

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