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Opinions on the best rattle can spray paint.


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What is your opinion on what brand of spray paint from a rattle can do you think is best? I love the Duplicolor primer but I was wondering about their Perfect Match spray paint and Perfect Match clear coat. Does Duplicolor have something better than their Perfect Match product line that you would recommend? If you were going to use spray paint from a can what would you guys recommend? I know a lot of people on here like Tamiya spray paint and Tamiya clear and I was wondering how it compares to the Duplicolor three part system (primer, Perfect Match color, and Perfect Match clear). My other question is, I have never used a clear coat before and I was wondering what the process is? Do you clear coat first and then foil the car? Also, do you do your detail painting (emblems, front grill, engine compartment parts like the battery) after you clear coat? If you get paint on an area you didn't intend to while detail painting how do you fix it? Do you wipe it away immediately with mineral spirits for enamels, and water or alcohol for acrylics?

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To me,the best spray can paint is Tamiya without a doubt. Their metallic paints can't be beat as far as the scale of the metallic. When I first tried laquers,I used some Dupli Color a couple of times,but after I tried the Tamiya paint,I was hooked! For primer,I won't use anything but Plasti Kote.

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To me,the best spray can paint is Tamiya without a doubt. Their metallic paints can't be beat as far as the scale of the metallic. When I first tried laquers,I used some Dupli Color a couple of times,but after I tried the Tamiya paint,I was hooked! For primer,I won't use anything but Plasti Kote.

Where do you buy Plasti Kote? I can't find it. I really like the DupliColor primer, however.

p.s. I just found a few retailers near me that carry the Plasti-Kote line. What primer do you use? The plastic primer or the sandable primer? My guess would be the sandable primer.

Edited by rickd13
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Where do you buy Plasti Kote? I can't find it. I really like the DupliColor primer, however.

p.s. I just found a few retailers near me that carry the Plasti-Kote line. What primer do you use? The plastic primer or the sandable primer? My guess would be the sandable primer.

Yeah Rick, I use the sandable primer. To me,it's the best primer out there for my purposes. It sprays,sands and fills in very well and doesn't build up. I'm tempted to try their paints on a body sometime. I use their engine enamel on my Ford engines. I gotta pick some up for my Chevy engines also and I'll be set for life.

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Plastikote sandable here as well, goes on like Tamiya, just cheaper,you get twice as much, and more color options. I get mine at Advance Auto in my area, sometimes they have a buy one get one sale :P Just call around to the automotive parts and/or paint stores in your yellow pages....someone is bound to stock it

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I'll give Testors and Tamiya credit for making great paint. Because of the cost (4-6x the cost of regular rattle cans)I've only used them a few times for odd colors I couldn't find elsewhere but everytime I have they have worked great.

As far as regular paint, I rate Krylon at the top (the regular stuff, not Fusion), it dries quickly, covers well and is very forgiving of minor errors. Krylon Fusion is ok, but even though it is made for plastic, I don't find it works quite as well as the regular stuff.

I also use quite a bit of Rustolium, Duplicolor and occasionally Plasticote. I don't have an issue with any of them, but don't find them quite as user friendly as Krylon. You really have to watch the Duplicolor engine enamels which are thicker than the regular paint colors.

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Depends...

Tamiya makes a great product - sprays on smooth and glossy. I have found it to be somewhat fragile for me (if your not clumsy, it may not make a difference). Clearcoating helps protect the painted finish but seems I always tap a corner or something while sanding and chip the paint.

Tamiya semi gloss black is the best semi gloss I have found. The Krylon semi flat and semi gloss do not go on as evenly as the Tamiya.

I have just started using the duplicolor paints and have to say they are great. The paint comes out nice and even and they have nice nozzles. I have found they are more durable than the Tamiya paints - my usual dropping and bumping does not result in the same chipping. They are cheaper by volume as you get almost 3 times more paint for the price. The duplicolor clear also works nicely and I have been experimenting with it on spoons - it polishes out great.

Flat black - Krylon is great. You can get a BIG can for the price of a small hobby can. It goes on easy, dries quickly, and covers very evenly.

I use and like both the plastikote and duplicolor primer. Sandable is great for the first couple coats but sometimes goes on too heavy - that's its purpose. You can go to Plastikote's webiste and search for retailers in your area as it is more limited than duplicolor.

I also have used the Testors lacquers and they work great - although the ones I have used seem to have a lot more pressure than the other brands (could be my imagination) and load the paint on - so be careful I guess.

The only paints I stay away from are Testors enamels - I really don't like them. They are very slow to dry and the finish is usually way below that of any of the lacquer choices.

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Depends...

Tamiya makes a great product - sprays on smooth and glossy. I have found it to be somewhat fragile for me (if your not clumsy, it may not make a difference). Clearcoating helps protect the painted finish but seems I always tap a corner or something while sanding and chip the paint.

Tamiya semi gloss black is the best semi gloss I have found. The Krylon semi flat and semi gloss do not go on as evenly as the Tamiya.

I have just started using the duplicolor paints and have to say they are great. The paint comes out nice and even and they have nice nozzles. I have found they are more durable than the Tamiya paints - my usual dropping and bumping does not result in the same chipping. They are cheaper by volume as you get almost 3 times more paint for the price. The duplicolor clear also works nicely and I have been experimenting with it on spoons - it polishes out great.

Flat black - Krylon is great. You can get a BIG can for the price of a small hobby can. It goes on easy, dries quickly, and covers very evenly.

I use and like both the plastikote and duplicolor primer. Sandable is great for the first couple coats but sometimes goes on too heavy - that's its purpose. You can go to Plastikote's webiste and search for retailers in your area as it is more limited than duplicolor.

I also have used the Testors lacquers and they work great - although the ones I have used seem to have a lot more pressure than the other brands (could be my imagination) and load the paint on - so be careful I guess.

The only paints I stay away from are Testors enamels - I really don't like them. They are very slow to dry and the finish is usually way below that of any of the lacquer choices.

What line of Duplicolor base paint do you use? All I seem to find is their Perfect Match automotive paint. Is that any good? Do you clear coat the Duplicolor or do you just polish it out. I'm finding what you say about the Tamiya paint being delicate true with Tamiya paint and Model Master.

Edited by rickd13
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I use 3

Tamiya

Duplacolor

Black Gold (HOK aerosal)

My normal method of application is airbrush...

MM lacquers are more work than the others, and as they do not have any unique colors....I rest my case.

all are lacquer base and I mix and match for my color needs. I prefer decanted TS13 clear over the Others...goes on glass smooth with the airbrush

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I use 3

Tamiya

Duplacolor

Black Gold (HOK aerosal)

My normal method of application is airbrush...

MM lacquers are more work than the others, and as they do not have any unique colors....I rest my case.

all are lacquer base and I mix and match for my color needs. I prefer decanted TS13 clear over the Others...goes on glass smooth with the airbrush

I don't have an airbrush.

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What line of Duplicolor base paint do you use? All I seem to find is their Perfect Match automotive paint. Is that any good? Do you clear coat the Duplicolor or do you just polish it out. I'm finding what you say about the Tamiya paint being delicate true with Tamiya paint and Model Master.

I use the Perfect Match Duplicolor - it is an acrylic lacquer made for automotive use. I clear it as the metallic paints don't have a shine. When applying, I have found you need thin, mist layers. With Tamiya, I usually do a few mist coats followed by a heavier wet coat. When I tried that with Duplicolor, the flakes in the metallic paint bunched up along edges.

My most recent project is painted with Duplicolor and Krylon crystal clear - should be close to "under glass" tonight or tomorrow.

Edited by Coyotehybrids
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I use the Perfect Match Duplicolor - it is an acrylic lacquer made for automotive use. I clear it as the metallic paints don't have a shine. When applying, I have found you need thin, mist layers. With Tamiya, I usually do a few mist coats followed by a heavier wet coat. When I tried that with Duplicolor, the flakes in the metallic paint bunched up along edges.

My most recent project is painted with Duplicolor and Krylon crystal clear - should be close to "under glass" tonight or tomorrow.

What was the process you used on your latest project? Did you sand in between coats of base paint? If so, what grits did you use and how long did you wait for dry time between coats of paint? Did you do any sanding after your final color coat? If so up to what grit did you use? Did you spray your Krylon crystal clear over any of the foil or decals you may have done? Can you apply foil and decals over the crystal clear? Finally, after you clear coat with crystal clear, do you have to polish it after it dries(sanding up to 12,000 grit and then using a rubbing compound) or do you just leave it alone? I'm sorry if I sound like I'm interrogating you but I'm just trying to pick your brain so I can improve my own techniques. I feel totally lost and confused sometimes.

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All paints are different and have different drying times. My process for the last car I completed with duplicolor was:

1. Sand bare body and remove mold lines, etc

2. Prime with Plastikote sandable primer

3. Sand out imperfections

4. Prime

5. Sand imperfections

6. Prime

7. Sand smooth - grit depends on amount of work needed. More grit or more work - then up to 600 or 800.

8. Mist color coat. Wait 10 minutes. Mist. Wait 10. Mist. Wait 10. Mist. Wait. Check for coverage. If needed, another light coat.

9. Let dry at least 30 minutes.

10. If needed, sand color coat. If you get dust, hairs, etc, get rid of them now. Clear won't hide anything. I sanded through he color coat on the trunk area on my last build (arrr) - to remedy, I masked off just the trunk area to avoid over spray and paint edges.

11. Apply thin layer of crystal clear. Wait 1 minute. Apply another thin coat. Wait 1 minute. Apply another coat - this time a wet coat - more paint. .

12. Let dry 48 hours

13. Begin wet sanding - crystal clear is tough but, for me, prone to orange peal. I use a polishing kit and start at the most coarse ( coarsest?) grit need to smooth the orange peal. Then just work, wet, through all the grits. It is wet, tiring, and boring - but I love doing it.

14. After wet sanding, I use Meguiar's Scratch X2.0. Followed by micro gloss and then Tamiya finishing compound.

I foil and decal over final paint. I really don't do kits requiring a lot of decals though, so I wouldn't be the one to ask.

Again, this is different for all paints and also varied depending on humidity (I live in a dry place) paint thickness, etc. so you may need to adjust times. This is just the process from my last build.

What I can say is - Practice. Use white plastic spoons. Try different combinations. My kids have all sorts of shiny, painted spoons! It takes time and "wastes" paint but is invaluable to getting better looking paint.

One guy, one way of doing things. Every builder here has different, and probably better, techniques!?!

Edited by Coyotehybrids
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Seems to be a concensus here.

Tamiya, Testors and Duplicolor. I use the Duplicolor cheap brand primer and that stuff is great. It's house branded i believe to whatever store you are shopping at. My local shop carries the Bright Beauty line. It's Duplicolor by any other name. Great stuff.

I use Testors 1814 enamel clear for all my color coats though. Tamiya for white and the brighest yellow.

I've found a system and these paints are all part of it.

Bob

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All paints are different and have different drying times. My process for the last car I completed with duplicolor was:

1. Sand bare body and remove mold lines, etc

2. Prime with Plastikote sandable primer

3. Sand out imperfections

4. Prime

5. Sand imperfections

6. Prime

7. Sand smooth - grit depends on amount of work needed. More grit or more work - then up to 600 or 800.

8. Mist color coat. Wait 10 minutes. Mist. Wait 10. Mist. Wait 10. Mist. Wait. Check for coverage. If needed, another light coat.

9. Let dry at least 30 minutes.

10. If needed, sand color coat. If you get dust, hairs, etc, get rid of them now. Clear won't hide anything. I sanded through he color coat on the trunk area on my last build (arrr) - to remedy, I masked off just the trunk area to avoid over spray and paint edges.

11. Apply thin layer of crystal clear. Wait 1 minute. Apply another thin coat. Wait 1 minute. Apply another coat - this time a wet coat - more paint. .

12. Let dry 48 hours

13. Begin wet sanding - crystal clear is tough but, for me, prone to orange peal. I use a polishing kit and start at the most coarse ( coarsest?) grit need to smooth the orange peal. Then just work, wet, through all the grits. It is wet, tiring, and boring - but I love doing it.

14. After wet sanding, I use Meguiar's Scratch X2.0. Followed by micro gloss and then Tamiya finishing compound.

I foil and decal over final paint. I really don't do kits requiring a lot of decals though, so I wouldn't be the one to ask.

Again, this is different for all paints and also varied depending on humidity (I live in a dry place) paint thickness, etc. so you may need to adjust times. This is just the process from my last build.

What I can say is - Practice. Use white plastic spoons. Try different combinations. My kids have all sorts of shiny, painted spoons! It takes time and "wastes" paint but is invaluable to getting better looking paint.

One guy, one way of doing things. Every builder here has different, and probably better, techniques!?!

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Your '62 Impala looks awesome by the way.

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Tamiya and Testors lacquer and Model master metalizers are great choices . Try polishing the body with an old tee shirt and some cheap polishing paste. Also called rubbing compound, can be found in any parts store or big box store. It usually comes in two colors (grits)red which is more coarse and white ,finer . A tub of this stuff is only a few bucks and will last for years. Polish the bare plastic before priming, prime, lightly polish again and apply finish coat . I use this method for award wining finishes using rattle can paint. Also try warming the spray can in the hottest water you can stand putting your finger in.

Cool color tip: Testors Diamond Dust silver base coat followed by Tamiya clear red, blue, or orange for the most incredable candy finish you have ever seen. Follow with a couple of straight clear coats and WOW . Good Luck

Take Care and see you around the clubhouse,

Steve D.

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I've kind of gotten away from using automotive primers and have taken to using mostly primers intended for use on styrene, i.e. Model Master and Tamiya. The reason? Because I don't experience near as many problems with "ghosting" (re-appearance of emblems, trademarks, mold lines, etc. that have been sanded off) that I do with the hotter automotive primers.

Tamiya, Model Master Lacquer, and Testors One Coat are all outstanding rattle-can paints. You can't go wrong with any of them. I tend to prefer the Testors because I find it to be a bit more user-friendly than Tamiya. That's just a personal preference, though. As for clear, my "go-to" choice is Testors One Coat Wet Look Clear. It's very forgiving, produces a beautiful shine when rubbed out and waxed and dries very quickly. I routinely polish it out less than 24 hours after shooting it and have never experienced any problems.

Foiling over or under a clear coat is a personal choice; mine is over. Some people like the look that a clear coat gives the foil and also claim that the clear helps "seal" the foil; me, I think it has a tendency to make a model look like it has been dunked in varnish! ;)

Same deal with decals ... some people like to clear over them, and it does tend to hide the edges of the decals and make them look more like part of the paint job. However, that's not always appropriate; for example, on NASCAR race cars, the graphics are vinyl stickers and are noticeably less shiny than the paint. It's usually safe to shoot clear over decals; just be sure to allow the decals plenty of drying time and build your clear coats up s-l-o-w-l-y.

Detail painting should be done after clear coating, especially of items in the engine bay, for the simple reason those usually aren't shiny! ;)

Finally, I would suggest NEVER using mineral spirits or other chemical to remove paint from areas where you didn't intend for it to go ... that's usually a recipe for disaster! Sometimes, you can wipe away errors when you're hand-brushing; that's why it pays to keep a soft cloth handy. I've also found that carnauba wax, like The Treatment, works well for cleaning up paint fubars.

That's probably more info than you wanted, but, I hope you find some of it useful, anyway!

Thanks for the advice. The trick with the wax cleaning up mistakes might really come in handy.

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for me i use walmart white or grey flat paint in a rattle can for my primer and all my builds do just fine and its only a buck for the paint. and you can use them on interior and engine pieces too. but for my basecoat i use model master paints through my airbrush. for clear i use rustoleum gloss clear it works very well dries shiny and when you wetsand and polish it out it looks beautiful. but if you putting decals under it it will only work with revell decals NOT AMT. i tried it with amt and it sort of ate them and bubbled up but not really bad to redo it but bad enough for you to tell. i use to use duplicolor clear when they had the bigger cans not the new smaller cans and they worked great over amt decals. but thats how i paint mine i also tried tamiya sprays and they are really nice but not in my price range for a rattle can but they are really nice just never used the clear.

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