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New to painting models and primer sanding?


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i have done 2 models so far and want to get better and get more into the hobby. when it comes to painting i have been using testers spray primer 2 coats, and 2 coats of color, then 2 or 3 clears. it turns out looking decent but not as good as i like. i have been doing NO sanding but am going to my next car. what sandable primer do i get and what are the benifits of doing it?

also i used automotive spray can that looked a lot better on my second car. if i want to step it up to the next level in painting what do i do?

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Chris, a lot of us use different primers.......some of us swear by Tamiya primer which needs no sanding at all...........to Duplicolor which may need some sanding.

Both are easy to work with and both spray very nice. I personally like to use the airbrush as that gives me more control over what comes out..............but that's me. :wink:

Testor's paints are not one of my faves only because they never seem to fully cure for me without letting sit for 10 years..............:D....but they're okay for beginners. The benefits of the more automotive based primers are 1) Durability, and 2) a more realistic final finish as the stuff is for actual cars.

One caveat is to make sure the plastic is properly barriered against the hotter stuff......this is not so much of a problem with Tamiya, but the other automotive sandable primers it's a must! :shock:. These days the American manufacturers are using a new softer plastic and is very susceptible to "crazing". Automotive primers contain solvents which can damage the plastic if it's not protected properly.

I use Future Floor Wax as a barrier.......others may use something called "BIN" which can be found in the hardware stores.

Most of all.......nothing replaces Practice, Practice, Practice! The more you do......the better you'll become!

Hope this helps!

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thanks man, so the sanding is mainy to make sure it is a consistant finish.

now that i have that out of the way, what about the top coats and clear? i do not have an airbrush and don't think i can afford one as of now, so what are the better paints in a can for me to use? or does it really not matter when it comes to canned paint?

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thanks man, so the sanding is mainy to make sure it is a consistant finish.

now that i have that out of the way, what about the top coats and clear? i do not have an airbrush and don't think i can afford one as of now, so what are the better paints in a can for me to use? or does it really not matter when it comes to canned paint?

If you want rattle can paint, it's hard if not impossible to beat Tamiya Sprays.

I've got an airbrush and I use Tamiya sprays for just about anything I can.

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Tamiya is about the best out there.However you either need to find a decent hobby store or buy online. Also around these parts about $5.00 per can,and they are as smallas the testors.I used to use testors as it could be found at Wally World. However always got a kinda pebbly finish and the nozzle would spray erratic sometimes. If you want to be cost efficient and to find something available almost anywheres, I suggest the Dupli-color automotive paint. It can be found in just about any auto store in many many colors. If you know the poeple and they dont have a certain color, they will order it for you.It too is about $5.00 perbig can or $3.00 for little can. Thier chrome is good as well. Now I have not put a barrier on my models yet and have not had a problem yet. However a good friend of mine who has done show quality cars for many years now has started to have a problem and needed to start laying down a barrier. He just clear coats it first, then we use sandable primer. They have a filler sandable primer that I like to use as it will fill in any scratches on my models and sand down smooth.However I do big scale.On the little cars you may want to stay with the regular primer so you dont loose any detail. Use as many coats as needed to cover your model if you used putty anywheres to fill in sink marks ect.I would say the fewer the better, but no less then 2. Now the color coats is best if spayed on light and 2 or 3 coats with wet sanding inbetween coats.try something around 1000 grit or so if possible. Remember again the more coats you put on the moredetailyou will loose likewise, the color will get darker or "deeper". Last comes the clear. Depending on what you are building they have dull coat, satin gloss and gloss. Try to keep to just 2 coats and then polish heavily as reguired. As for the paint in the can, it also will go on smoother if you warm the can first by sitting it in a warm bowl of water for a couple of minutes. Make sure you sake very well and make sure the nozzle is clean.Last, this should help you get a good coat, but as MrObsessive said, practice practice practice will make near perfect!! Now this is what works with me. However you may find something else that works better for you.Good luck and hope to see some stuff from ya soon.

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I have to echo the same sentiments for Tamiya. If you can afford to get them then do it. They are a little more pricey, but the end result is worth it.

Tamiya also makes a great primer, both in gray and white. As Bill said, these are fantastic primers.

My thought on sanding is start with the bare plastic body. Lightly scuffed for the primer to "bite" into. Once you get your primer down a light sanding on that as well.

Same goes for color coats. I usually sand each color coat lightly with exception to the last coat.

Clear coats get sanded lightly as well with final polishing on the last coat.

3M makes some great wet-dry sandpaper in grits of 1000-2000. I usually use these on the bare plastic. I then switch over to higher grades when it comes to paints.

The biggest thing here is prep work on the body before you lay down your first color coat. Ismael G. has that down to a science and I credit him with some of my better paint jobs.

As was suggested, practice, practice, practice.

It is true, you do get better with each one. One other suggestion that Bill Geary told me once, Treat every part as a model unto itself. Your results will improve ten fold. He wasn't kidding.

Chris

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The biggest thing here is prep work on the body before you lay down your first color coat. Ismael G. has that down to a science and I credit him with some of my better paint jobs.

Chris

Thanks Chris! I'm blushing :oops:

Yes, my philosophy is to make every step as good as if the next one is not needed. Then and only then you are ready for the next step. Never never Never NEVER NEVER EVER think that any step can coverup mistakes or a lousy previous step.

Thanks,

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