Testors Gloss Clear Red

[kylexgore]

I'm wondering if anyone has used this particular paint and could give me some insight on the best way to apply it.

[chunkypeanutbutter]

What are you planning on using it for?

[kylexgore]

I'm had plans on spraying it on Revell's Buick GSX.

[Drake69]

Tamiya clear spray paints are supposd to go over metallic paints and give it the tinge of that color, so spraying Clear Red over Silver Leaf would produce something like a candy color effect (candy-apple red). Get yourself some plastic spoons, spray them with various metal paints, then spray Clear Red on them to see what it comes out as. Obviously, more coats means a deeper color, and the same acrylic spray paint rules apply here (use misting/dusting coats only, don't wet spray or paint will run badly, etc...).

EDIT: WHOOPS! This is for Testors paints, not Tamiya. Have NO IDEA if this would apply the same here.

Confirm this before doing what I told you to do!

Edited April 16, 2015 by Drake69

[Longbox55]

The Testors goes on the same way as the Tamiya is described in Allens post. A silver base will cool the color, gold will give a warmer final shade. If you can, you might consider decanting and airbrushing it, as it does have a tendency to lay down a bit blotchy out of the can. Red and green seems to be the big offenders in the Testors clear enamels, they blue and grape seem to lay down with a more consistent color.

[fseva]

I'm wondering if anyone has used this particular paint and could give me some insight on the best way to apply it.

You haven't said which one you're thinking of using - I have used the acrylic, and did not get very impressive results. If you need to use an acrylic, use Tamiya's clear red instead. You will get the best results by airbrushing, but remember that the more transparent paint you apply, the darker it will get. That's a particularly tough part of doing candies, because if you use your regular left-to-right spray pattern, you will have areas where the paint will be lighter than others, and you'll try to compensate by spraying that area; of course, that only makes the surrounding area that much darker, and it goes on and on, until you finally have complete coverage but the color is so dark, it no longer looks like red (or whatever)!

[jwrass]

Kyle,

I have not used any of these products but have sprayed many gallons of kandy paint in the last forty years. (See profile)

If you are trying to emulate a Kandy finish always paint in what is called straight line thinking. Meaning start at the front or rear and paint the whole side of the object. With a kandy finishes your technique needs to be much more disciplined that with conventional colors. Start your paint flow before you reach the object and continue paint flow past the object. Do not make like your airbrush is a keyboard! Nice steady flow and cadence makes for super paint work.

Although you can get various shades of say kandy red by putting fewer coats on however Kadies are designed to reach what is called a ceiling color. Meaning it will reach a optimum color (as shown on a color chip) usually 3-5 coats depending on the color and base, after it reaches the ceiling color it really doesn't get darker (that's a misnomer) it gets what we call muddy, Dull, Less Depth, Less Reflectivity of the base color.

Kadies can be mixed to any color of the rainbow and then some. It is best practice to spray the color you desire and use the 3-5 coats procedure vs cheating the surface of pigment

I hope this helps!

Peace Jimmy "RASS"

Spraying colors on models having shades lighter that what is on a color chip is fine as they are not exposed to the elements, however on a 1:1 you would have a condition called color holdout you have to get the proper amount of paint on the subject to prevent the color from fading, A good UV clear coat helps with preventing fading but you have to get the pigment down to have the color be lightfast

[kylexgore]

You haven't said which one you're thinking of using - I have used the acrylic, and did not get very impressive results. If you need to use an acrylic, use Tamiya's clear red instead. You will get the best results by airbrushing, but remember that the more transparent paint you apply, the darker it will get. That's a particularly tough part of doing candies, because if you use your regular left-to-right spray pattern, you will have areas where the paint will be lighter than others, and you'll try to compensate by spraying that area; of course, that only makes the surrounding area that much darker, and it goes on and on, until you finally have complete coverage but the color is so dark, it no longer looks like red (or whatever)!

Hey Frank, Sorry about that. It's a spray enamel.

[ZTony8]

A neat hint-shoot the clear red over a copper base coat.It gives the red a beautiful deep,rich hue.Think the Mazmanian Willys gasser for the color.

[fseva]

Although you can get various shades of say kandy red by putting fewer coats on however Kadies are designed to reach what is called a ceiling color. Meaning it will reach a optimum color (as shown on a color chip) usually 3-5 coats depending on the color and base, after it reaches the ceiling color it really doesn't get darker (that's a misnomer) it gets what we call muddy, Dull, Less Depth, Less Reflectivity of the base color.

Well, if candies get too many coats and start looking dull with less depth and less reflectivitiy, doesn't that make them look darker?

Put a gray filter in front of the moon - won't it look darker? Isn't this just a matter of specifics over generalities?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Well, if candies get too many coats and start looking dull with less depth and less reflectivitiy, doesn't that make them look darker?

Put a gray filter in front of the moon - won't it look darker? Isn't this just a matter of specifics over generalities?

Semantics...word definitions, and understanding of word definitions.

Once a candy reaches its ceiling color, it's not going to get "darker" any more than putting on more coats of bright red is going to make dark red.

Excessive coats of candies simply become less and less transparent, (more "muddy") eventually hiding the reflective quality of the basecoat entirely.

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"Color holdout" is generally understood by paint manufacturers to be a quality of primers, surfacers, or sealers that go under the color, and is a measure of how well a particular undercoat keeps the topcoat from "dying-back" or losing it's gloss as it "shrinks into" the undercoat, or loses its solvents into the undercoat...which produces a "flattening" or loss-of-gloss of the surface. Paint "dieback" is prevented by using undercoats that are very resistant to the solvents contained in the topcoats. Color "dieback" (poor "color holdout" under this definition) can happen almost immediately or over a considerable period off time, depending on a variety of factors.

[jwrass]

Thank you Ace, Right on!!!! and so eloquently put

Jimmy "RASS"