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Revell 1969 Z/28 non-RS build


JPS_Lotus

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Finally finished this one up last night/this morning. 4th model finished. The goal with this kit was to work some more with photo-etch parts. I wasn't able to get the burrs trimmed off as well as I would have liked, and I didn't feel comfortable trying to use a file while holding them with tweezers since they were prone to bending very easily, and getting marks. Still working on getting the spray painting down better, but it's slowly getting better with each model.

1969 Camaro Z/28 in Daytona Yellow (Model Master Custom Lacquer hit with Ultra Gloss Clear) with black stripes I used Model Car Garage photo-etch parts for all of the badges on the exterior. I went with the non-Rallysport build as I am a bigger fan of non-RS first gens personally.

The photo-etched parts I bought had 327 and 350 badges. I chopped them up as best as I could to get the 302 badge. Some minor screw-ups that can't really be seen (thank god! :D ) but overall it came out pretty well. Was the first model I was able to complete start to finish with minimal problems, and it can only get better from here!

Tried to take a pic of the interior but couldn't really get the lighting for that. But there are a lot of photo-etch parts in there that can't be seen. If I can figure out a way to get the lighting better, I'll definitely try and get a better picture. You can just make out the shifter plate next to the shifter in the one picture to give an idea of where I went with that. ;)

This may go unnoticed, but the stripes on the rear are spaced properly. The Revell instructions call for them being closer together, but the proper spacing was apart as I have it. I suspect the Revell kit did it because it was the only way to keep the "Camaro by Chevrolet" badge visible...the benefit of the photo-etch parts is you can make it visible in the middle of the stripe!

Thanks for looking.

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What color and where on the wheels would you guys recommend doing it?

Polished trim ring, polished center cap, dull silver in between...and fill in the "holes" with flat black. Unless you actually want to drill them out, which I don't think you do.

rally-wheel_zps5ecca52a.jpg

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Thanks Harry!

I tried the Tamiya flat aluminum, as that's a dull silver, on one wheel. It looks better, but I think it's a bit late to be doing this as I am going cross-eyed trying to distinguish between the chrome plate and the flat aluminum. Sort of a silver overkill on my vision at the moment. I will look at it again tomorrow and see.

Thanks for the bit about the rear bumper and the taillights. I left the taillights as I was unsure of whether Bare Metal Foil would be the best way to go on that. Thoughts?

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If you decide to detail the wheels try using a silver and black fine line sharpie. The silver contrast to the chrome looks good and the fine line point on the black sharpie with fit in the grooves on the hub and holes on the wheels. .

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The wheels are easy to do on, the demarcations are all there and sharply defined, though on the center cap it's the second ridge inwards, not the first. The first one is part of the wheel. I've got some painted up at home, I'll bring them to work tomorrow where I have my good camera and take a pic.

The rear stripes are a little too far apart, I have the correct spacing diagram somewhere, I just can't find it now, but my general rule of thumb on 69's is that the outer edge is pretty much in line with the inner edge of the rear window trim. Looks like you've got them all the way to the outer edge.

On the front stripes they should run straight then "disappear" as they roll under into the grille surround, not with that horizontal border. And the cowl vents should be blacked in as well. Revell gives you the border as a decal, but not the cowl vent part, that has to be painted.

Just minor nitpicks, mind you, nothing serious, but if you're striving for accuracy (and it sounds like you are) I'd take them into consideration for the future.

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Thanks Harry!

I tried the Tamiya flat aluminum, as that's a dull silver, on one wheel. It looks better, but I think it's a bit late to be doing this as I am going cross-eyed trying to distinguish between the chrome plate and the flat aluminum. Sort of a silver overkill on my vision at the moment. I will look at it again tomorrow and see.

Thanks for the bit about the rear bumper and the taillights. I left the taillights as I was unsure of whether Bare Metal Foil would be the best way to go on that. Thoughts?

It might be too late for the taillights. That work would have much easier to do while they were still loose, and you could lay them on your work surface. Then you could have used foil, or even a fine-tipped silver sharpie to add the chrome details. Now that they're installed on the model, it would be very difficult to add that detail at this point. Probably best to let it go.

And just to add on to Brett's comments... the stripes should end at the bottom of the spoiler, and not extend down any further. A small detail for sure, but like Brett said... if it's detail you're after... ;)

BTW, keep this in mind for next time: Before you start on your next model, always do a google image search. That's where I found the pix I posted. It's fast, it's free, and you will find tons of great photos that will help you get all the details right. I never start a model until I have collected a folder full of reference images.

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The rear stripes are a little too far apart, I have the correct spacing diagram somewhere, I just can't find it now, but my general rule of thumb on 69's is that the outer edge is pretty much in line with the inner edge of the rear window trim...

See post #12... ;)

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Thanks Harry!

I tried the Tamiya flat aluminum, as that's a dull silver, on one wheel. It looks better, but I think it's a bit late to be doing this as I am going cross-eyed trying to distinguish between the chrome plate and the flat aluminum. Sort of a silver overkill on my vision at the moment. I will look at it again tomorrow and see.

Thanks for the bit about the rear bumper and the taillights. I left the taillights as I was unsure of whether Bare Metal Foil would be the best way to go on that. Thoughts?

Yeah, you do get a little snowblind. I've found that it's sometimes best to do them under poor lighting to keep from overpowering your eyes. I then let my eyes rest and look at them under different light conditions (I walk them around to other rooms in the house, outside, etc...) and I'll see where I've slipped up or gotten thin coverage. I think natural daylight through some sort of diffusion like curtains or blinds is the best light. I like doing them on my computer desk with just daylight through the window. Edited by Brett Barrow
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Thank you so much for all of the constructive comments guys!

I'll definitely be redoing this kit down the road now. :)

I was trying to get everything close as I could, but I made mistakes even when looking at the pictures Harry.

When I get the wheels finished I'll toss up redone pictures.

I did manage to fix the length of the stripes on the rear spoiler just now, trimmed it so it wasn't going down past the edge of the spoiler. The gap between them is unfortunately going to have to say as is for now unless I go buy another set of stripes which I'm debating doing so I can just redo them altogether. Might not be the worst idea now that I think about it since the hood stripes aren't going over and under as Brett mentioned, and I'm not sure if it is going to bug me down the road or not. .

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