Pro Street Community Build Project

[ScaleDale]

If anyone is interested, here is the diagram and tubing specs for full bodied car roll cages from my NHRA rule book. I can link the full Super Street section if anyone is interested in realism.

I have a build to finish and will be adding a Fair/velle to the mix around the end of the month.

Dale

NHRA Chassis.pdf

[wgflatliner]

thanks! the thunderbird is going to be interesting, and it's all molded in a bright pink. i'll need to add sunglasses to my list of required tools.

your pontiac looks good!

[tubbs]

If anyone is interested, here is the diagram and tubing specs for full bodied car roll cages from my NHRA rule book. I can link the full Super Street section if anyone is interested in realism.

I have a build to finish and will be adding a Fair/velle to the mix around the end of the month.

Dale

ME!!! ME!!!! i would be interested. question, do you have anything on full tube cassis cars?

[ScaleDale]

ME!!! ME!!!! i would be interested. question, do you have anything on full tube cassis cars?

I'll work on that later tonight and convert it to a pdf for posting here. I did research on Pro Mod builders recently and have a catalogue from a chassis builder I can share. It has cool drawings and stuff of various designs of tube chassis.

Edit: Here's the info on chassis. It comes from ChassisWorks.com.

Link:http://www.cachassisworks.com

Edit: I'm having trouble uploading PDF files to the forum and viewing them, so I added files to my Google Docs folder. They are all public and contain schematics of tube chassis and other info useful for scratch building Super Street / Pro Street / Pro Mod cars.

Watch out for the ChassisWorks Catalogue, it's a big file. The Pro Mod file is all chassis diagrams.

I have added the Super Street section of the current NHRA rulebook to the list, too. Be my guest.

Link: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1nHFOBDdle8R2I3NUMyRENydDg&usp=sharing

Dale

Edited May 3, 2013 by ScaleDale

[ScaleDale]

Hi. I’m fairly new to this forum and this will be my first build here. I thought the Community would be a good place to start and this is right up my alley.

I’m going to be combining a Revelle 64 Ford Fairlane 500 with their 67 Chevelle Pro Street kit to produce a Super Street build I call a FairVelle. The motor will be a Ross Gibson Boss 429.

I got started yesterday and combined the two chassis by marking out the wheelbase of the Fairlane on a work board and cutting both of the frames in what seemed like good spots. If there is such a thing. The Chevelle is wider so I had to cut a channel out of the center and the result is in the first photo below. It’s a bit on the weak side but I may add a tube frame that should strengthen things up. I modified the Fairlane interior tub to accommodate the tubbed rear and replaced the Ford back seat with the one from the Chevy. It fit the wheel wells better. It’s a bit messy inside but I’ll work on that.

The second photo shows the state of affairs as of now. I didn’t like the idea of the upper part of the suspension being cast into the body of the Ford. It’s too easy for problems to hide there, so I cut it free and tested the fit with a Boss 429 from a 70 Mustang I have that’s half built and the shock towers crowd the motor out. Looks like hack time again. I have a good stand alone front end from a NASCAR kit that would give more room if I do the tube frame thing. I’m leaning toward a sheet metal look for the undercarriage and may take my Dremel to the raised ribs in the unibody style underpan to flatten it out.

I’ll keep you posted on this and let me know if you have any suggestions on how to better handle anything.

Dale

[tubbs]

Hi. I’m fairly new to this forum and this will be my first build here. I thought the Community would be a good place to start and this is right up my alley.

I’m going to be combining a Revelle 64 Ford Fairlane 500 with their 67 Chevelle Pro Street kit to produce a Super Street build I call a FairVelle. The motor will be a Ross Gibson Boss 429.

I got started yesterday and combined the two chassis by marking out the wheelbase of the Fairlane on a work board and cutting both of the frames in what seemed like good spots. If there is such a thing. The Chevelle is wider so I had to cut a channel out of the center and the result is in the first photo below. It’s a bit on the weak side but I may add a tube frame that should strengthen things up. I modified the Fairlane interior tub to accommodate the tubbed rear and replaced the Ford back seat with the one from the Chevy. It fit the wheel wells better. It’s a bit messy inside but I’ll work on that.

The second photo shows the state of affairs as of now. I didn’t like the idea of the upper part of the suspension being cast into the body of the Ford. It’s too easy for problems to hide there, so I cut it free and tested the fit with a Boss 429 from a 70 Mustang I have that’s half built and the shock towers crowd the motor out. Looks like hack time again. I have a good stand alone front end from a NASCAR kit that would give more room if I do the tube frame thing. I’m leaning toward a sheet metal look for the undercarriage and may take my Dremel to the raised ribs in the unibody style underpan to flatten it out.

I’ll keep you posted on this and let me know if you have any suggestions on how to better handle anything.

Dale

looking killer. this is one i have had in the back of my mind forever and just never got to it... yet !! i will be watching. keep up the posts, getting kinda slow round here, thats life. glad to have you aboard.

one note, by cutting the center out if the chassis, you will have to change the geometry of the suspension. EVERYTHING has moved inward now. i usually trim the tubs to make them fit in the body, along with sanding down the inside of the body.

[ScaleDale]

looking killer. this is one i have had in the back of my mind forever and just never got to it... yet !! i will be watching. keep up the posts, getting kinda slow round here, thats life. glad to have you aboard.

one note, by cutting the center out if the chassis, you will have to change the geometry of the suspension. EVERYTHING has moved inward now. i usually trim the tubs to make them fit in the body, along with sanding down the inside of the body.

Thanks. I first looked at trimming the tubbs but was concerned the aftermarket slicks I have wouldn't fit the body. I assembled the Chevy rear and took a measurement before cutting. It moved the mounting holes but the assembly still fit.

The shock towers up front are the main sticking points so far. The kit is designed to fit the 427 wedge head (it can be built as a Thunderbolt Super/Stock even though the box doesn't admit it} but the OHC heads on the BOSS 429 make it too wide. Since this is a model and I therefore have very deep pockets, the motor is going out to John Kasse in exchange for a 500 cid BOSS 9.

I'm going to sketch a tube frame today and go through my parts box for spare front end components.

I'm not concerned over the board being slow. Summer is near and people need to be outside. My wife broke her leg and I need to stick close to home for a while, so I have more time to build.

Dale

Edited May 7, 2013 by ScaleDale

[tubbs]

Thanks. I first looked at trimming the tubbs but was concerned the aftermarket slicks I have wouldn't fit the body. I assembled the Chevy rear and took a measurement before cutting. It moved the mounting holes but the assembly still fit.

The shock towers up front are the main sticking points so far. The kit is designed to fit the 427 wedge head (it can be built as a Thunderbolt Super/Stock even though the box doesn't admit it} but the OHC heads on the BOSS 429 make it too wide. Since this is a model and I therefore have very deep pockets, the motor is going out to John Kasse in exchange for a 500 cid BOSS 9.

I'm going to sketch a tube frame today and go through my parts box for spare front end components.

I'm not concerned over the board being slow. Summer is near and people need to be outside. My wife broke her leg and I need to stick close to home for a while, so I have more time to build.

Dale

after i sent that post, i kind of figures out you knew what you were doing, but cant retract the statement avter you hit that button. are you doing this from the new release kit. how does that compare to the 6 old style kits i have?

you will be able to work around those towers, cut the inner fenders out and move them out a little. should not need that much room. make a support bar on the wheel side of the inner fender and hanf the shock from there. see, problem solved. hehe.... and really, only a 500, go bigger, this is pro street, "no substitute for cubic inches!"

i hear you about the board. just a lot of great builds on here. want to see them complete.... even mine!! hopefully!!

[ScaleDale]

I’m not really sure I know what I’m doing, but I’m willing to stick my head out and try new things. [

The Fairlane is the Special Edition 2008 kit and the Chevelle is the 2012 release of the 67 Pro Street build with the tubbed chassis. The only other ones I have are both Thunderbolts and the kits are the same. Revell says they are all discontinued and I think they just rounded up all their Thunderbolts and boxed them for sale.

I just narrowed the tub part of the Chevelle after cutting it off and kept the tread width the same, but made it fit the Ford better. I still needed to shave it a bit with my Dremel. It moved the mounting holes for the Chevy rear end, but my pin vise fixed that. One thing cutting and gluing the two chassis in a straight line did was weaken the frame a lot. I used styrene rod to build a tube frame as a superstructure that added strength to it and that helped a lot. Took all day, too.

Like you said, the shock towers had to go and I just cut the buggers out all together and scratch built a tube front chassis extension with shock mounts on the outside rather than on the inside. I’ll add sheet metal to wall off the engine later.

This is a real mongrel. The back seat is from the Chevy as is the roll cage, but I added scratch rod to build it out in to a full cage.

This is what it looks like in primer. More to do tomorrow.

Dr. Cranky has Eyegore, I have Ratburt, my shop assistant.

Dale

Edited May 10, 2013 by ScaleDale

[ScaleDale]

Hi, again. Busy, busy, busy...

I've just about finished my chassis and suspension. I rebuilt both the front and rear shocks using ideas from a tutorial I found here in the Tips and Tricks. It solved a fit issue that cropped up from having relocated the mounting holes for the rear springs by narrowing the Chevelle back half. Instead of trying to make stuff fit I just built my own and moved on. It turned out pretty good, I think. I did a first test fit with the tires I have for the back and kit wheels and tires for the front just to hold things up. This is my first go at this type of build and it's going pretty good. I like the look of the Fairlane with the big tires. I'm going to lock this up and work on the engine for a while. Literally. I have a box with a locking lid that I use to hold finished or nearly so systems like this while I work on something else. Keeps me from loosing stuff...

pics:

The rods on the back of the differential are to be cut off.

Thanks for your time. See you in a week or so.

Dale

[tubbs]

Hi, again. Busy, busy, busy...

I've just about finished my chassis and suspension. I rebuilt both the front and rear shocks using ideas from a tutorial I found here in the Tips and Tricks. It solved a fit issue that cropped up from having relocated the mounting holes for the rear springs by narrowing the Chevelle back half. Instead of trying to make stuff fit I just built my own and moved on. It turned out pretty good, I think. I did a first test fit with the tires I have for the back and kit wheels and tires for the front just to hold things up. This is my first go at this type of build and it's going pretty good. I like the look of the Fairlane with the big tires. I'm going to lock this up and work on the engine for a while. Literally. I have a box with a locking lid that I use to hold finished or nearly so systems like this while I work on something else. Keeps me from loosing stuff...

pics:

The rods on the back of the differential are to be cut off.

Thanks for your time. See you in a week or so.

Dale

looking great Dale, love the front coil overs. what did you use for the springs? the spacing is perfect. i too love the big meats under that little body. this may be your first pro streeter, but it certainly isn't your first build (HAHA), you have some nice skills. make sure you push those rims all the way into the tire, the large ring on the rim fits into the tire, not on the outside. can't wait to see more!

[ScaleDale]

Thanks for the comments, Tubbs. I used wire from the craft store for the springs. I lost the package but I think it was 24 guage. For the spacing I held a piece of smaller wire next to it while I wrapped it around the tube and then unwrapped the little one. It worked great. The wheels are just temp to see if everything fit in the Fairlane. I have some resin Pro Stock wheels on order. They may even be in backwards. The tires have two sides, one for regular wheels and the other is for deep dish hubs. I primed the engine block last night and will be working on it for a few days.

I have an idea going for a series of modern day Pro Stockers all with full tube chassis scratch built. I have a 2010 Mustang and Camero and need to find a Dodge Avenger and Pontiac GPX from that same year to match them all up. If they aren't 2010 or newer bodies they won't qualify for P/S by the time I finish them...

Thanks for your time.

Dale

[tubbs]

Thanks for the comments, Tubbs. I used wire from the craft store for the springs. I lost the package but I think it was 24 guage. For the spacing I held a piece of smaller wire next to it while I wrapped it around the tube and then unwrapped the little one. It worked great. The wheels are just temp to see if everything fit in the Fairlane. I have some resin Pro Stock wheels on order. They may even be in backwards. The tires have two sides, one for regular wheels and the other is for deep dish hubs. I primed the engine block last night and will be working on it for a few days.

I have an idea going for a series of modern day Pro Stockers all with full tube chassis scratch built. I have a 2010 Mustang and Camero and need to find a Dodge Avenger and Pontiac GPX from that same year to match them all up. If they aren't 2010 or newer bodies they won't qualify for P/S by the time I finish them...

Thanks for your time.

Dale

thanks for the tip, i may try that, but, i also do some shopping at the craft store and i found these erring looking things that go on charm bracelits that look like springs when you pull them apart. an eve tension will stretch them evenly. good deal on the rims, you got it all figured out so i will just watch this neet build and maybe start project # 86......

the pro stock series sounds great, i have a 63 to 65 factory hemi and max wedge super stock build ongoing. trying to do a lot of the factory race cars, including lightweight and R coded fords, ZL-1 camaros, Z-11 impalas and some of the factory race pontiacs. but that is another thread.

[1320wayne]

Hey Dale, the Fairlane is looking good. That body style has always lent itself to a good looking tubbed pro street or race car. Can't wait to see more.

I'm off the road this weekend so maybe I will find some time for my build.

[ScaleDale]

Thanks for the comment, Wayne. I'm working on the engine now and hope to have some photos to share over the weekend.

Dale

[Pro Wrench]

thanks for the tip, i may try that, but, i also do some shopping at the craft store and i found these erring looking things that go on charm bracelits that look like springs when you pull them apart. an eve tension will stretch them evenly. good deal on the rims, you got it all figured out so i will just watch this neet build and maybe start project # 86......

the pro stock series sounds great, i have a 63 to 65 factory hemi and max wedge super stock build ongoing. trying to do a lot of the factory race cars, including lightweight and R coded fords, ZL-1 camaros, Z-11 impalas and some of the factory race pontiacs. but that is another thread.

If you wrap the wire for the springs around the threads on a small screw (like a #8 or #10) then turn the screw out it makes perfect spacing for them also.

[Guest]

I built a '64 Fairlane pro street way back in '99. I used the tube chassis from the Matt Hay pro street Thunderbird. It fit like a glove! The only mods I had to do to it were making the front rails longer and modding the trunk pan to make it fit the body better.

I decided not to trash my Duster. I have too much work into it to start over. I'm just working on it when I feel like messing with it. All I like is detailing the grille, adding the bumpers, exhaust, driveshaft, final polish on the body and a few other minor details. I may have it finished in a few days or a few weeks.

[ScaleDale]

If you wrap the wire for the springs around the threads on a small screw (like a #8 or #10) then turn the screw out it makes perfect spacing for them also.

I saw Scott do this over in the Canadian site Scale Model Addict and gave it a try but I must be screw disabled or something. Just couldn't get the turn thing straight. The double wrap is my compromise.

I built a '64 Fairlane pro street way back in '99. I used the tube chassis from the Matt Hay pro street Thunderbird. It fit like a glove! The only mods I had to do to it were making the front rails longer and modding the trunk pan to make it fit the body better.

I decided not to trash my Duster. I have too much work into it to start over. I'm just working on it when I feel like messing with it. All I like is detailing the grille, adding the bumpers, exhaust, driveshaft, final polish on the body and a few other minor details. I may have it finished in a few days or a few weeks.

This is how modeling should be. Build when you really want to and don't let anything take over your life.

Dale

[ScaleDale]

Finished my engine this week. I loved the headers and had to thin out the inside rails of the chassis in the engine bay to get it to fit. I was going to rebuild the chassis ahead of the firewall but managed to avoid that. I have another build to finish by the end of the month so this is going to have to rest a bit. see you all soon and thanks for the encouragement.

Pics:

By for now.

Dale

Edited May 21, 2013 by ScaleDale

[W-409]

Finally the '58 Sedan Delivery is back on the bench! I decided to check the ride height and at the same time if I have to modify the suspension. Rear tires are from AMT '66 Nova ProStreet and fronts are from Revell's Impala. White walls fit nicely to Pro Street car. Wheels are Weld Draglites that are resin cast by a Friend of mine. The Rear Axle from that Nova kit fits perfectly with its Leaf Springs, but I need to get the front end a little higher. Now the tires are just thrown inside the Fenders to see, how much I have to change the front suspension. The stance will be as it is on the pics.

Now I'm working on the Headers for this one.

[ScaleDale]

Nice set-up. I like the looks of the wagon body on the Pro style undercarriage. Great looking wheels, too. I have a bunch of resin coming this week and I think the ones I ordered are similar to these. I'll see soon. Is that the full Nova undercarriage with some scratch built shims or did you splice the two frames like I did? I need to look back through this thread to see the earlier photos of your build.

Building headers is a challenge. I have been able to bend rod to simple angles with a heat gun and a block of wood as an angle guide, but the multiple bends required to get them around an engine bay are beyond me at this point. Keep us posted on your progress with this.

Tha nks for sharing your time.

Dale

[Chuck Most]

Made a little progress on the Hornet-

Minor trimming was needed for the side panels and back seat to clear the tubs. I used the gauge panel from the pro street Malibu on the Hornet dash.

I replaced the dash clock with a tach, and the steering wheel is also from the Malibu. Still needs some detailing and cleanup, but the interior is pretty much spoken for. The front buckets will also come from the Malibu, and I'm using a floor shifter from a Ford Courier.

[Pro Wrench]

Building headers is a challenge. I have been able to bend rod to simple angles with a heat gun and a block of wood as an angle guide, but the multiple bends required to get them around an engine bay are beyond me at this point. Keep us posted on your progress with this.

Tha nks for sharing your time.

Dale

The trick to building headers that required complex and multiple bends is to use solid core solder. It's soft and maleable enough to bend easily.

[tubbs]

Finished my engine this week. I loved the headers and had to thin out the inside rails of the chassis in the engine bay to get it to fit. I was going to rebuild the chassis ahead of the firewall but managed to avoid that. I have another build to finish by the end of the month so this is going to have to rest a bit. see you all soon and thanks for the encouragement.

Pics:

By for now.

Dale

hey Dale, great build going on. do you use a black wash on your parts. it seams like you do. what do you use? and did you scratch up those headers? if not, where did they come from?

[ScaleDale]

hey Dale, great build going on. do you use a black wash on your parts. it seams like you do. what do you use? and did you scratch up those headers? if not, where did they come from?

The headers are the ones that came with the motor. It's a resin kit from Ross Gibson Racing Engines. I used Alclad on the motor and was afraid to use my usual wash, which is black oil paint cut with enamel thinner since the enamel would eat the lacquer finish. I asked in another part of the forum and didn't get a clear answer so I sprayed the engine with Future to seal the surface and used the oil paint wash. The motor took on a gloss finish and the wash worked pretty well. The wax did a good job of protecting the surface.

Dale