Diorama Question...

[MikeyB08]

First off... Hope I'm asking this in the right area. Didn't know if I should ask here or the Diorama section.

I'm looking to build my own garage. What materials are good to use but also cheap and easy to get?

I was thinking along the lines of poster board, plexiglass, dowel rods and balsa wood.

I'm mostly worried about the structure and strength. I'll get to the floor texture and such once it's up and going. Thanks in advance for any/all responses and I look forward to hearing your answers.

[southpier]

how long do you want it to last? one photo session or moving it to shows? how big? one bay or fleet sized? these decisions may affect the materials & construction.

what do you want the finished product to represent? wood, brick, enameled steel? that will also help you decide on materials.

if you just want a box for now to rough out space, you can use foamcore from the stationary or art supply store. Gatorfoam is much more sturdy, but a bugger to cut for windows & doors. either of these materials can be sheathed with the siding of your choice.

posterboard will most likely need some internal bracing. plexiglass can be a bear with which to work, and balsa . . . . . is a whole other topic. try not to get involved with it.

[MikeyB08]

Well then here is my layout. I would like a permanent shop. It will be set up at my home as well as any shows when I get to attend them. I'm looking at a 2 Car Garage with an lean tue outback for my "Junker". I would like a brick exterior. It will not have a roof, at least not for a while.

I know I also have to accommodate room for my "Workshop Tools" that I would like to have in the garage (cabinet, desk, drill press, lathes, fridge, etc.). This is a whole new area for me as I'm looking for this to be something that I work on for more than a year. Whenever I see one I am amazed at how much continued work can be done.

I would also like to add a "Man Cave" upper attic.

P.S.- I didn't mean to say posterboard. I was thinking along the lines of Foam Board. It was late and I should never talk past 10 pm.

[Art Anderson]

If you are looking to replicate the wood used in a frame building (plates, studs, joists, rafters), I'd suggest checking out basswood, which is harder, and much more close grained than balsa.

Look into model railroad "lumber", as if you check for O scale lumber sizes, they can be used for our scale, as O scale is 1/48 scale, where we work in either 1/24 or 1/25 scales for the most part. To figure the sizes, take the O-scale size, and simply double that, as a 1/24 scale model would be twice the size of the same subject done in 1/48 scale.

Art

[modelercarl]

I built this garage 3 years ago (have been adding things continually since then) and wanted it to be sturdy enough to be moved around frequently and "storable". I used 1/4"x6"x12" basswood from Lowe's. This is 6"x12' in 1/25 scale. I cut all of the pieces and mocked them up with tape to make sure everything would line up and fit properly. Before finally gluing and screwing it together I painted the walls and added the door frame moldings/trim.

After the final assembly I caulked all of the joints and touched them up with paint as necessary. I got the paint as samples from a local paint store (semi-gloss for the walls and gloss for the floor). To replicate the concrete finish on the front approach apron and window lentils I painted primed wood with Tamiya diorama texture paint, pavement effect, light gray.

For the brick effect I used Housework's Brickmasters common joint brick sheet #H8206 made of styrene plastic. It comes in sheets 6" x 9" if I remember correctly. They also have the corner pieces which make it easy to get a proper looking corner. I would recommend getting the brick sheets first thing to help you lay out the windows and doors so that you have half bricks at all openings. I used Miniature Brick & Stone Mortar #OR599 Grey for the brick joints. You spread all over the brick surface and then use a small sponge soaked in vinegar to remove excess "mortar" until you have just the right amount left in the "joint".

I am really happy with the diorama, always looking for things to add or making small changes and has withstood much handling.

[Harry P.]

I agree with Art. Basswood is the way to go to build the basic structure, especially if you want to realistically duplicate full-scale construction with scale sills, studs and rafters. Hobby Lobby carries a wide selection of basswood strips, in many different dimensions, that would be perfect for in-scale studs, rafters and sills.

[Eshaver]

One word , Foam Core !

[Ju Ju]

One word , Foam Core !

.....Uhh, That is two words.

[MikeyB08]

Awesome. Thanks guys. Carl that's close to what I'm looking for minus the office and such. I figured my dimensions to be 20'in Long, 13'in Deep, 10in' Tall. I will hopefully start designing my layout on paper with in the next few hours. Always like to have a gameplan to act as reference material.

As for walls what material do you guys recommend? I've seen Foam Board used and it looks good. Easy to cut and work with and cheap. Being my first Dio, not looking to invest a great deal of money until I'm confident I can build one I'm happy with.

Also thanks for the tape tip... I'm sure that will be handy.

Edited August 12, 2013 by MikeyB08

[Eshaver]

James , actually there are several ways you can do "Interior walls and really CHEAP TOO ! have you ever visited a Michael's Art store ? I bet ya have . Go over to the "Printed Papers " . hey they have all kinds of KWELL Looking Printed paper for about 1.50 a sheet . The sheets , they're 8 1/2 X 11 mostly . Apply with Elmers SPRAY ON CONTACT CEMENT .

This is Silver Metal Flake paper in a bar scene .

Now you can also visit the Evergreene Styreene and go for several "Tile Pieces . Those sheets run 5 X 7 and usually around 6.25 a sheet . Meanwhile , you can also go to the doll house companies and even get Brick and Stone embossed papers too ! Hey, just look for "HALF scale ", that's 1/2 inch equals a foot.

[LokisTyro]

In my opinion plexiglass would be far too expensive. You could buy a 4x8 Ft sheet

of birch plywood for the cost of a small sheet of plexi at the big box store.

[MikeyB08]

Well I was thinking the plexi-glass would be for the windows. But I think I'll just order some clear Styrene since it's easier to cut and I know I can work with it easily.

[Eshaver]

James , I use the Clear plastic from food containers that have say Vacuum formed tops . Uh like the Birthday cake tops that are commonly found at Kroger , Food Lion , and Winn Dixie . That plastic is ever bit of .025- .030, CLEAR, and it glues down real nice with 5 minute epoxy . If you make a mistake and get it out , let it dry first . Now , with a ROUND tooth pick, take it and you can scrape the excess off with out damage to anything . Besides , it's plastic that otherwise gets tossed into the trash . Uh give George 53 the credit on this one ..............

[MikeyB08]

You're just full of tips Ed. lol.. Thanks for the heads up. Never crossed my mind to use preformed plastic.

[Eshaver]

James , I do archectural models professionally .................

[MikeyB08]

Thats so awesome!!

[macart52]

Got Table Saw? 2x4s etc work great. Just run em through the saw. If you don't have one, their pretty cheap at blowes and Home Depot. Just make sure you install a 0 clearence plate over the blade. 1/2"= 1' in 1/24th scale(I think).

[LokisTyro]

Well I was thinking the plexi-glass would be for the windows. But I think I'll just order some clear Styrene since it's easier to cut and I know I can work with it easily.

Got ya. I don't know what I was really thinking there aside from trying to save you some dollaroos.

Thanks for sharing that tip, Ed. Very helpful. Very, very helpful. Now I'll be picking cakes out by sorting out the grainy plastic first