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hey guys i been building models for a whyle now and i just got my first kw900 i see all ur custom trucks and i was just wondering where u guys get ur parts and stuff im not the best scratch builder yet but i plan on doing a bit of custom work like extended frame and visors and a texas bumper. thanks guys ill make this into a wip of my first truck build up to.

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sorry i didnt get pics up jus been busy lol. i havnt made much progress at all in the last couple days trying to do some research and finish my derby car for a contest lol

streched the frame a little bit idk how many scale inches or anything

IMG_20120826_174844.jpg

heres some of the power plant painted

IMG_20120826_174913.jpg

im trying to do a little detail but this is my first rig so i keepin it simple

IMG_20120826_175000.jpg

heres the rear axles. gunna be body color still gotta paint the air bags n stuff on that. thinking of clearing it and making it more shiney first tho.

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Brandan, when it comes to dealing with aftermarket parts, you have to be careful who you buy from, especially resin products. There are people who buy from top notch casters (such as Eric at P &P, Dave at AITM, KFS, Auslow and others) and in turn cast them themselves. Copycat caster have inferior work not to mention no morals about copying someone else's work. Ben Wicker does great masters and he can answer any questions about who to buy from, not only resin, but other products as well.

As Brian posted, Eric does some Texas style bumpers in resin and you can also find some stainless and aluminum ones on ebay from Ryan who goes by rhino9905.

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Having seen Erics stuff up close and met him and his wife recently I can say they will be getting more of my money in the future. I don't think I've ever seen resin parts from a multi piece mold that need less cleanup than his.

Hey Brian,,Thanks for the good words on the castings my friend, glad you like them. If we can help you with anything else just give us a call.

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Too find out the scale" I just divide by scale. there are a few other ways of doing it too be more pinpoint. Divideing is faster and real close.

24"/24 scale =1". I do a lot of big sleeper so a 144" sleeper/24=6''.

Since you are working with a snap it is a 25 scale so use 25.

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thanks for the warning, buying from the internet is pretty dangerous, i usualy find one person who casts n stik with them just because i know what i am getting, seems like a pretty close bunch of people here though thanks for all your help so far im sure ill have many questions since im new to trucks. its nice to have a place where people look out for u and give great advice. thanks again guys

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I have dealt with Eric at p&pvintage and Jerry at modeltruckin both are very good at what they do and very good people also.

That first one to offer you something well I tried to work with him on something and got stuck on the deal so beware.

If you want top of the line resin get it from Eric and decals from Jerry the reason I speak highly of them is because when I started buying decals and resin they where the first people I dealt with and I stick with what works.

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I too have bought from Eric and P&Pvintage and the resin is just like injection moulded plastic. Smooth with no bubbles or distortion on the parts. Communication is fast and shipping even faster. I have bought cheaper inferior parts off Ebay and had to trash them as they were not worth the time to fix them and some were unfixable. Eric offers high quality parts at affordable prices.

I can also recommend Daniel from Plaskit. He offers excellent rims and tires and is constantly updating his parts catalogue. His resin is just like Erics. Smooth with no bubbles or warping and great service too.

I have bought from both these casters and highly recommend them.

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Hey Guys,,,

I posted on this thread the other day that I thought Joshua Galyen of J&T Customs ( without using his nam in the post ) was coping some of our parts for resell,,,,I just got off the phone with him and it seems maybe I had some misinformation,,,He just told me that he has not and will not copy any of our parts to resell,,,so all is good between him and I, Sorry if I caused any drama here for him or anybody else,,,that is the last thing that I want to do. Again sorry to all and I have deleted what I posted,,,

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Lol well thanks for trying to warn n helping other modelers atleast u admit u mistakes n apoligizee i learned alot about this group already lol im thankful for all ur help. I have a small update i primed n painted my frame today and i dropped it when i was bringing it in and it broke in half. So i have to reglue it maybe put braces down inside the rails and i stripped the tanks and did a little sanding and primed on n started more sanding. Im trying to get the seams out

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Lol well thanks for trying to warn n helping other modelers atleast u admit u mistakes n apoligizee i learned alot about this group already lol im thankful for all ur help. I have a small update i primed n painted my frame today and i dropped it when i was bringing it in and it broke in half. So i have to reglue it maybe put braces down inside the rails and i stripped the tanks and did a little sanding and primed on n started more sanding. Im trying to get the seams out

Brandan

This is the way I stretch my frames.

I glue the strip inside the frame and let it dry.

Then I fill the gap on the out side,after it dries I shape the out side to match the frame.

The inside strip will halp keep the frame from breaking so easy,I have dropped one myself and it held with out a problem.

As far as inside overlapping pass your cut frame a least a 1/4 inch at both ends works good.

The frame in this photo is 1/16 scale so I overlaped it for the weight of the model to keep it from sagging.

Once I get the out side shaped I can post another photo on here.

DSC06900.jpg

Edited by ewaskew
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Ic what you mean i was gunna try somthing like tjat at first bit was trying to keep it as smooth as i could. Seeing urs it looks like it tured out better than what i had in my head lol ill def give that a shot thank you.

Ic what you mean i was gunna try somthing like tjat at first bit was trying to keep it as smooth as i could. Seeing urs it looks like it tured out better than what i had in my head lol ill def give that a shot thank you.

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First off Brandan I'm not here to over ride your post,I'm just posting what I do here to help you and others instead of directing anyone elsewhere.

If it becomes a problem just let me know.

I'll go ahead and show you the out side of the frame before putty.

This frame will be cut again around the sleeper area because I added a third axle even though its cut twice it will still have no sagging problems

I set a bottle of 20 oz water on this one for a weight test and its just fine.

Step 1 Pieces glued into gaps.

DSC06898.jpg

Step 2 File the edge's square.

DSC06899.jpg

Step 3 blend edge's with factory frame.

DSC06900.jpg

Step 4 Putty and paint once thats done you'll never know the frame has been cut.

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oh ur not takin over my thread lol. i always check out other peoples pages for anything that might help my builds and if my thread helps somone else thatll be alright with me. im sorry i havnt been posting much, got a lot goin on right now and am taking my time with the build no need to rush lol. i started repairing the frame tonight hopfuly it works better this time lol. and i got a bit done on the motor i might have to get new brushes becaue this yellow is tearing them up so the paint dont look right. i also got one fuel tank done and painted might take 2000 and wet sand it so itll be nice and smooth and shiney lol. ill have pics up tonight but for now i havnt done a whole lot

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