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Reducing Tamyia acrylics


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I've read several threads and comments about using denatured alcohol for this. It is next to impossible to find here. The closest thing is Methyl Hydrate. Would that be a good alternative? If not, what else would work? I'd like to stay away from lacquer thinner if I can. It is not good in the airbrush.

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Why is lacquer thinner not good in the airbrush? That's what I use to thin Tamiya's acrylics for shooting through my Paasche VL and it is by far the best thing I've tried. Second best results would be thinning with Tamiya's own acrylic thinner (X-20, I think is the number).

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I've been told lacquer thinner "eats" the little O-rings in the airbrush.

Only rubber seals. Most of the seals in brand name(not chinese knock-offs) airbrushes are Teflon and are solvent proof. The only exception is in the air valve assemblies.

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Thanks guys. I think I will use the X-20 of which I have two bottles for reducing. It's the cleaning I'm worried about. It takes large quantities and I was thinking of lacquer thinner until I read somewhere that it can damage some of the seals. I'll ask Badger directly to see what they say.

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Mike, do you use it to clean the brush too?

Yes, when I'm shooting acrylic. I use Berryman's B12 Chemtool carb cleaner when I shoot lacquer- it's WAY aggressive, but haven't had a problem as my Badger 100GF has a teflon seal.

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I've had the best results with denatured alcohol, plus it's $4.50 for a big can of it at Lowe's or Home Depot. That sucks that you can't get it up there in your neck of the woods, Pat. To each their own, but whatever gives your eye the best results.

Tim

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I've used both pure denatured (SLX) alcohol and 91% isopropyl alcohol and found that the 91% works better as the water helps to ameliorate the rather strong drying agent in Tamiya acrylic, allowing it to flow out and lay down smoother. Same with brush-painting.

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I've had the best results with denatured alcohol, plus it's $4.50 for a big can of it at Lowe's or Home Depot. That sucks that you can't get it up there in your neck of the woods, Pat. To each their own, but whatever gives your eye the best results.

Tim

What ratio?

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I've been air brushing since about the time tamiya acrylic paints started showing up on the hobby shop shelves. (dang am I telling on my age lol) and I started out using their thinner until I found out it was nothing more than denatured alcohol. I have tried several ways of thinning it over the years and the one thing I learned is NOT to thin it with lacquer thinner! Lacquer thinner tends to cause it to clump up. At least most of the lacquer thinners I've tested it with. What works the best and the cheapest, is the cheap brands of denatured alcohol you can by at any hardware store, or walmart or home depot or even lowes. When it comes to cleaning your airbrush afterwards, that's where cheap hardware store lacquer thinner comes in to play, it's not as hot as the stuff sold by automotive paint or parts stores and wont hurt your airbrush, even if you have the ones with the rubber rings. Why can you clean your brush with the cheap stuff lacquer thinner but not thin with it you may ask.. well because your not spaying the cleaner on a model, so if it clumps the left over acrylic paint in your airbrush as you spray to clean it out, it wont hurt it. Just keep running the thinner through it until it runs clear and not spitting from clumps. For me, I still take my air brush apart after painting and clean it completely anyways. As far as rubbing alcohol goes.. you can thin tamiya acrylics with it as well, but it tends to dry a little too fast if not mixed just right, even before it hits the model and can cause a ton of unwanted orange peel, And if too much rubbing alcohol is used, it can even cause what I like to call, for lack of better words, dry, flat or blotchey spots. For mixing with denatured alcohol, I found a couple of mixes work pretty well, depending on how much gassing out time you want. Remember, the longer it takes to gass out, the smoother the the paint will be when it does.. So for a fast gass out time.. a mix of 1 part paint to 1 part thinner. For a slower gass out time, 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. For flat colors I always use the first mix i stated. The other benifit of the cheap hardware store lacquer thinner besides using it for a cleaner, is, you can use it to thin model master non- acrylic enamels. Yes those old enamels that take forever to dry, and it works well as a thinner for those. It speeds up their drying time, and even helps them lay on smoother. Again, don't attempt to mix the enamels with automotive lacquer thinner as it is a much hotter thinner than the cheap hardware store type and will cause the enamel to clump when mixed with it. I'm sure others will have other ideas about mixing with tamiya acrylics, but this is what has always worked for this old dog.

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What ratio?

For gloss, I usually add 7ml - 10ml of denatured alcohol to the 23ml bottle of Tamiya acrylic and 3ml-5ml on the smaller 10ml bottles when spraying via airbrush. Jim (see post above) was the one who got me started with the denatured alcohol tip. I think he adds a tad bit more denatured alcohol than I do, but he definitely got me started in the right direction. It all depends on what PSI, airbrush, etc, that you are using as well as technique.

Tim

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