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1/16 Dragmaster IV dragster


Dyno Davo

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dave,

I downloaded the pdf and it is a great tutorial. Thanks for sharing

By the way what did you use for creating the tutorial.

bobthehobbyguy

Hi Bob, apologies for the slow reply, the tutorial was put together in Word and then converted to PDF. Thanks for using the tutorial, hope you turn out some great wheels. With a little patience you can use this technique for 1/25 as well. I use 10 thou rod for those.

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Latest update, scratch built the early Hilborn two port injector system, added a scratch built oil pressure gauge with face glass, fuel shutoff cable and handle, ignition cutout switch and cabling and the Vertex magneto, spark plug leads and spark plugs. Started building the headers using copper tubing.

Thanks for following guys. :D

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Fantastic build, Dave! I downloaded your tutorial, and I must say that it explains things very well and consisely. I will definitely try this method out on my next 1/16th dragster project ( I think it would be wise on my part to start on a larger scale first to get some experience). Hats off to you Sir. I can't wait to see how this project ends up! :). :)

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Latest update, scratch built the early Hilborn two port injector system, added a scratch built oil pressure gauge with face glass, fuel shutoff cable and handle, ignition cutout switch and cabling and the Vertex magneto, spark plug leads and spark plugs. Started building the headers using copper tubing.

Thanks for following guys. :D

DSCF2604.jpg

DSCF2607.jpg

DSCF2608.jpg

DSCF2610.jpg

DSCF2611.jpg

DSCF2606.jpg

DSCF2613.jpg

Very nice job. This is a beauty.

Thanks for the info on the tutorial and the tutorial also.

Am glued to my chair watching this.

bobthehobbyguy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just catching up on this. Give me a second to pick up my jaw. What a fantastic job and thanks for the wheel tutorial - I hate those thick plastic spokes in the kit (at any scale).

I love the linkage and fuel fittings at the injector.

Does the T handle in the cockpit go to a fuel cutoff valve?

Why did you choose brass bolts/nuts at the front suspension?

Last question - The valve covers look high enough to be a nailhead, but the exhausts look more like a SBC. What is it and who makes it?

As Steven Tyler would say on American Idol, "It's a beautiful thing, man".

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As Steven Tyler would say on American Idol, "It's a beautiful thing, man".

Man, I've not heard that saying, but it sure rings true about this beautiful build Dave. :blink: :wub:

Sorry I've missed the best part of this gorgeous build Dave, I'm in the same boat as Ted, and am only just catching up... :(

Your attention to detail is second to none, a true contender if ever there was one. B) :)

Cheers mate.

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Just catching up on this. Give me a second to pick up my jaw. What a fantastic job and thanks for the wheel tutorial - I hate those thick plastic spokes in the kit (at any scale).

I love the linkage and fuel fittings at the injector.

Does the T handle in the cockpit go to a fuel cutoff valve?

Why did you choose brass bolts/nuts at the front suspension?

Last question - The valve covers look high enough to be a nailhead, but the exhausts look more like a SBC. What is it and who makes it?

As Steven Tyler would say on American Idol, "It's a beautiful thing, man".

Hi Ted, thanks for the kind words. Yep the T handle does go to the fuel cutoff valve

I used some brass nuts and bolts purely because I had them and they looked ok for the application, once painted with some ModelMaster chrome silver they blended in with the rest of the front end.

The finned valve covers and heads were resin cast from some out of the Lindberg Bullhorn T Hotrod kit. The block came from the 55 Chev kit.

Thanks for the compliments Rick and Greg. Appreciate you looking in.

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