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1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.


landman

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Hi Chris, there is a little of New Zealand in mine. The glove compartment door is from New Zealand. Bought on eBay.

Ah Cool

Just for curiosity, the US/Canadian/down-under Chevies are pretty much the same car, correct?

Charlie Larkin

Yes I believe so

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Charlie8575, there are some subtle differences between Canadian and American cars that most people wouldn't notice unless looking at both at once. For example, the luggage racks, dash woodgraining and spare tire covers are different. But yes, you are correct in saying that they are pretty much the same.

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Couldn't find any of my plastic so I measured the frame and x-member to order the right size.

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The Ford doors are 7/64" longer. Now this is where you guys come in. Do you think it would work if I sliced 7/64 off the roof to shorten it?

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Also the top of the door of the Chevy is curved. What would you guys do to make that fit.

? Fill in the blank with sheet plastic or shape the bottom of the Ford window?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think I still want one of those R & R bodies to get the shape of the windshield and rear window. Are they still in business? No answer to emails or phone.

Ray Parson died about a year ago, and from what I can gather, there has been no recent production.

However, all is not lost.

Star Models, which can be contracted via www.resinrealm.net is R&R's major dealer, and Steve will sell you one if he has it.

Charlie Larkin

Edited by charlie8575
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I quoted Andy in post # 40. the quote shows but not what I wrote in. Here it is. Andy, that is what I am planning to do. I'll likely fill the gap with putty over a plastic backing. However I'm open to suggestions.

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Another thing that needs to be addressed. The diecast's front suspension is a beam axle on leaf springs.

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The actual car has "Knee Action" hydraulic suspension. It looks like this. It contains both the springs and shock absorbers and is filled with oil.

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On 7/3/2014 at 12:55 PM, 1930fordpickup said:

I think you need to make the door on your diecast match the 1:1 you have.

I started looking at how to do this. It has to be shortened lengthwise. that means sectioning the roof and taking a slice out. I'll attempt that later when I feel braver. As a first attempt at filling the gap above the door. I attempted to make a teeny sliver. A lot of work and will need much filling & sanding.

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Also removed the door hinges from the Ford roof. The Chevy's are on the front of the doors.

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Edited by landman
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Hey Pat, Great to see you on the model cars forum as well! (Pat and I are both regulars over at vcca.org)

If I were you, and was going to cut that roof, the place to shorten the length would be to cut at about the middle of the roof insert. You don't want to mess up any of the corners on the roof insert, or the corners of the windows. You're also going to have to put vent windows in too. An idea for getting the top to fit would be to look at how the 3 in 1 AMT '36 Ford is put together. It has an inter-changeable coupe roof/ roadster cowl that is cut along the same lines as what you are looking to do. The only problem is that you'll have to file down the metal doors. You only get one shot at getting that right! Another thing… measure the door and the gap behind the rear of the door and the rear fender. I think you'll find that the front edge of the door is in the right spot, and the rear edge has to be moved back. That may screw up your rear side window. That frame is different, not only because it is a standard, but also because it has the X member for an open car. Great job on getting the correct dimensions for your frame. That Danbury Mint model has extremely good details too. It may be easier to paint your real coupe to match it!

Edited by brewsterg6
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