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Steve

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    http://WardenDesign.com

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    Steve Warden

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  1. Seems like it would be easy enough to build starting with some 1/16" diameter styrene rod.
  2. Hope you're OK Don. Haven't heard from you in a while.
  3. Hey Don, just checking in for a quarterly update. How are the molds coming along?
  4. If your camera doesn't have a macro setting, the best thing to do is to stay a few feet away from the model and zoom in on it. Some camera's can't focus on objects too close to the lens. you may need a tripod for this method though because zooming in will only amplify any shakiness while taking the picture.
  5. Hey Don, just pokin' ya about the 'Cuda project. Any updates?
  6. Hey Don, Just wondering how it's going with the Cuda? Any photos of the progress on the mold?
  7. Length is about 10" center to center Width from the outside to outside of the front tires is about 5 5/8" Width from center to center of the front tires is about 5" I hope that helps. -Steve
  8. Hey Don, I know you've got your hands full with SMC lately, but any updates on the Cuda? -Steve
  9. What's the latest Don? How's the mold coming along? Not trying to rush you, I'm just really excited about this project! -Steve
  10. Gregg, I'm actually in the process of building the Pocher Testarossa engine kit over on the SMC forum, well actually in the process of not building it right now because I'm so busy with work, but anyway, be forewarned that the engine will require a lot of work just by itself to get it to a decent level of detail. It's pretty basic in box-stock form. Not trying to dissuade you, just trying to help you out. -Steve
  11. I'm in Louisville, and have looked in the past for some clubs, but haven't found any. It seems like there should be some around here somewhere. -Steve
  12. Gregg, I received the email you sent me about this project, and I'd be glad to chime in and offer any help you need. I have a lot of experience with this material, and actually run the same 3D pringint machine at work, so I can help you with the ins and outs of working with this stuff. One of the biggest tips I can give, is that I typically sand down the surface first with a rough foam-backed sanding block, maybe 60-grit or so, and then blow off all of the dust, and give it serveral good coats of "Folk Art Sanding Sealer" in a spray can. It says "For use on unfinished wood" on the can, but it works great to quickly fill in some of the roughest areas. Once that is dry, sand again, this time with somewhere around 120-grit. After that, start putting on coats of high-build sandable primer. I use the stuff from a spray can, but if you have access to a spray gun, you can get the 2-part stuff that covers very well. Then, just follow the process of sand, paint, sand, paint, etc. It may seem like you'll never get there, but I can assure you that a mirror finish is possible with enough elbow grease. Depending on the part, it sometimes can take 10-12 repeats of sanding and priming before it's smooth. Just be careful that with all of that priming and sanding, you don't lose any details. It's really easy to accidentally sand something off before you realize it. Also, save the sanding dust if you can, and it's not too contaminated with sandpaper grit. The powder mixed with some super glue makes a great filler since that is essentially what the whole model is, just powder held in shape with super glue. Or you can just use a thick super glue straight on it. It should still sand about the same. -Steve
  13. Sounds like fun. I always enjoy the mold building process. It's kind of like scratch building a model, well I guess it's exactly like scratch building a model when you're working in fiberglass. It will be fun to work on the fiberglass body. I've never tried that before, but it doesn't sound too different from regular resin, just without all the inherent problems resin has. Plus it will keep the finished project from being a 100lb lead weight! Even though I've got miles of "to-do" list stuff ahead of this, I'm sure I will find a way to bump it to the front of the line when it comes. -Steve
  14. It's great to see the progress on this project. I can't wait to get my hands on it! I'm thinking I might go for the '70, like you said, not much difference other than the grille and tail lights. I'll probably go pro touring style too, but a mild custom stock would be cool too. -Steve
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