kendog261 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 (edited) Anyone ever open up the doors on the 1/12 scale Camaros? I looked through the older post and it doesn't look like it. I was wondering how hard it is and what it looks like done. Any comments would be great. Ken EDIT: Decided to turn this into my build thread instead of starting a new topic. Please see below if you want to tag along. Edited April 9, 2014 by kendog261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewaskew Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Ken I have cut the door's and the trunk on a big Camaro and it took about three hours a little at the time to get it done. I used my razor knife and kept going over the door seams slowly until they cut through. As far as the look I'll have to dig it out in a couple of days and get some photos if you want me to. They came out OK. However there's other way's to cut them this way just works best for me. Just let me know if you want some photo's. God Bless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan020 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Ken I have cut the door's and the trunk on a big Camaro and it took about three hours a little at the time to get it done. I used my razor knife and kept going over the door seams slowly until they cut through. As far as the look I'll have to dig it out in a couple of days and get some photos if you want me to. They came out OK. However there's other way's to cut them this way just works best for me. Just let me know if you want some photo's. God Bless Yes please Earl Iam planning to do the same and like to see some pictures of your work. Greetings from Holland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 You might send a PM to Hawk312 (David Eicherly) about this. He's done fabulous work on 1/12 Camaros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddgass Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I have Ken, i'll send you some pics. late and how I did it. Have to run out know. OK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Thanks guys some photos would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 A must read, Ken: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5047&hl=%2Bopening+%2Bdoors#entry99875 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewaskew Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Ken this is more help to you than what I can show you with my photo's. My photos are finished doors. This how to link Casey has is the best that I have seen myself. If you haven't opened doors before, you may want to try it on a 1/24-1/25 scale first. God Bless A must read, Ken: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5047&hl=%2Bopening+%2Bdoors#entry99875 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) Okay so this is the start on my newest build. I have decided to customize this kit a bit instead of doing the stock build. I have decided to do a suspension upgrade on the entire kit. I also decided to purchase a motor from TDR I want to get a impression on 3d printing. I am still on the bubble if I'm going to open any doors or the trunk. Here is the stock bottom out of the kit I cut out the front frame I plan on building a bolt on upgrade that are sold for the real 1-1 cars I ground off all the fuel and brake lines even though they look good stock. Installed some filler into the spots I cut out and did some ruff sanding Started on the new front frame work. I needed to get the base frame done so I have a reference for everything else. I plan on doing the rear end first. Edited March 12, 2014 by kendog261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) This is the bottom after the repairs and under coating applied. I later decided to paint the under coating semi gloss black. Here are some photo's of the rear end. top with view with front frame in place added two more arms to it and changed the mounting top view with shock support in place Edited March 12, 2014 by kendog261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Nice start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmfowler Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 very nice start, will be following this one closely as I want to use a TDR engine and twin turbo kit on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Okay so I really didn't like the way the rear end turned out so I completely redid it. The photos don't show the bolts or pins holding it together but I forgot to take photos before I took it apart to start cleaning it up and priming. Also you can see I painted the under coating in these photos. And yes the suspension does work. Thanks RB motion for the great shocks. Edited March 13, 2014 by kendog261 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyboy Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Man! Beautiful work so far on the suspension and driveline!! Keep it up Ken! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roggan Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 What is the dimension on the shocks? RD motion have three different sizes. I need to buy a couple of sets for my Camaros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddgass Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Ken sorry I didn't get back to you, been down for a bit. I like the new supframe ( nice work ) I said I would send you some pics. of the door opening, I just have to take som Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 (edited) Ken, Nice crisp workmanship but can I mention a couple of issues I see with your rear suspension? The upper bars really need to go to the top of the axle housing. This is a pic of a housing I built for an Astro van. You can see the upper and lower brackets. Another pic from the front. The upper bars are inset from the lowers, you can do that. This controls the axle wrap and keeps the rear end from spinning backward. The way the bars are installed now the axle will fall backward (as the pinion rises) under power. And yes, I realize this is a model but I feel if it is going to be done, it should be done as correctly as possible. A four link suspension does not need a torque tube (the long tube you have running from the center section to the back of the subframe). Many two and three links will use a torque tube but the four link has no need as the upper and lower bars control axle wrap. Scratch this stuff below... I see you have the panhard in there.... I was blinded by the upper bars and didn't see the whole picture... The four link WILL need a panhard, or track bar, to keep the suspension centered under the car during cornering. You can see a panhard bar in this pic of the 3D design I did for the suspension in my van. The panhard bar runs cross car behind the diff. The left end attaches to brackets on the rearend and the right side bolts to frame brackets. I hope to not upset you. I just want to help you build an accurate model. Mark Edited April 3, 2014 by astroracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmfowler Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Very nice work on the suspensionso far, keep it up, looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Man! Beautiful work so far on the suspension and driveline!! Keep it up Ken! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 What is the dimension on the shocks? RD motion have three different sizes. I need to buy a couple of sets for my Camaros. Sorry for the delay real life has been very busy. The rear shocks are hole to hole is 1.25 inches. I have not done the fronts yet. Note that the springs don't come with the kit but Lowes had springs that worked perfect Ken sorry I didn't get back to you, been down for a bit. I like the new supframe ( nice work ) I said I would send you some pics. of the door opening, I just have to take som Photos would be great whenever you get some time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Ken, Nice crisp workmanship but can I mention a couple of issues I see with your rear suspension? The upper bars really need to go to the top of the axle housing. This is a pic of a housing I built for an Astro van. You can see the upper and lower brackets. Another pic from the front. The upper bars are inset from the lowers, you can do that. This controls the axle wrap and keeps the rear end from spinning backward. The way the bars are installed now the axle will fall backward (as the pinion rises) under power. And yes, I realize this is a model but I feel if it is going to be done, it should be done as correctly as possible. A four link suspension does not need a torque tube (the long tube you have running from the center section to the back of the subframe). Many two and three links will use a torque tube but the four link has no need as the upper and lower bars control axle wrap. Scratch this stuff below... I see you have the panhard in there.... I was blinded by the upper bars and didn't see the whole picture... The four link WILL need a panhard, or track bar, to keep the suspension centered under the car during cornering. You can see a panhard bar in this pic of the 3D design I did for the suspension in my van. The panhard bar runs cross car behind the diff. The left end attaches to brackets on the rearend and the right side bolts to frame brackets. I hope to not upset you. I just want to help you build an accurate model. Mark Mark thanks for the advice I have redone the linkage to be more realistic and thanks for the comments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Per Marks advice I redid some of the rear end linkage. I based my design on this and many other photos off of Google but I decided to use the stock rear end from the kit. A couple photos of the new rear end mocked up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendog261 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 So I wanted to talk about some of the 3D printed parts I'm using on this kit. The first parts I bought were frosted detail the stuff I just bought I purchased in ultra detail. As you can kind of see in the photos below their is a huge difference in the quality between them. At this point I would consider the first stuff I bought a complete waste of a lot of money. I wish I would have spent the extra money on the ultra detail to begin with the amount of time it took me to clean the parts would have been worth the deference in cost. PLEASE UNDERSTAND THAT THIS IS JUST MY OPINION. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrappyJ Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Very nice work, Ken! I like the chassis work. Looks convincing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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