Maindrian Pace Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies. Boo hoo. Let's fix it. This will be a replica of my 1992 LX. This pic was taken at a dead-on side view at 30 feet with telephoto to minimize lens distortion and show what the actual car looks like. I'll have to kitbash it into an automatic with power windows and A/C, not a problem. That roof, however, will need some work. I cut it along these marks. Whack it free with the razor saw. The angles of the A and C pillars are right on, the roof was lowered along those planes. When you chop a top like that, you must lengthen it, which is what they did. Use tape as a guide to cut the roof in half like so, then a sheet of sand paper on a piece of glass makes a perfect broad flat file to reduce the two halves. Reduce a little at a time, checking the alignment of the pillars as you go. -MJS Edited November 3, 2013 by Maindrian Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) Because you are moving the rear of the roof upward and forward, the B pillar can be bent back slightly to give it the proper angle, instead of straight up as supplied. The pillar spacers are Plastruct strip pieces measuring just a hair under 1/16" on the B and C pillars, and just over 1/16" on the A pillars. Because the A pillars are at more of an angle than the others, they rise less with the same spacers so thicker spacers are necessary to raise the roof level. Check the fit of everything with tape before you commit to the glue. When it all looks good, let the glue fly. I use good 'ol Testors toob gloo for my chops (and un-chops) because you can move the parts around a bit to finalize the fit. Then I touch it up with Hobbytown medium CA and kicker for extra strength and for minor body filler at the joints. Better? Total time to get to this point: 5 hours, 30 minutes, with one break. Next time, we'll talk about those rear wheel wells, the trunk lid, and where to get the best Chinese food. -MJS Edited November 3, 2013 by Maindrian Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hamilton Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 It's nice to see someone who will put their money where their mouth is. Very nice work. You have backed up ypur criticism about Revell's body with excellent results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 It's nice to see someone who will put their money where their mouth is. Very nice work. You have backed up ypur criticism about Revell's body with excellent results. l have to agree. Very nice looking 1:1 mustang.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Nice work Mike, I might have to give it a try when I get mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Instead of complaining for ten pages in the Car Kit Reviews - section, you decided to do what was needed to get the body right! And that's something I really like. You did great work with the modification also, and it sure looks better, even if I didn't see what was wrong with the original kit body. But now I see that yours look much better. Great job, I'll be following this one for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abell82 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Looks good. Now about those windows.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Mike that looks really good, and a lot more accurate! Until guys on the board here pointed it out, I would have never known the many issues that the body has as Fox bodied Mustangs are not my forte. As Jason mentioned, the fly in the ointment will be the front and rear glass. I would have a way to make them, but not everyone is skilled in working with acetate, or "molding" them out of PET. Keep up the excellent work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Awesome job, Mike. I agree with Ron's comments!! Looking forward to the next installment . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemodeler Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I'm interested in the Chinese food place, can you give us some insight ???? Nice job on fixing the Mustang and having a 1:1 in the driveway surely helps. Thanks for sharing a simple fix for those that are striving for more accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) Mike, I see you did yours just a bit different, but with the same results, a much better looking roof. I cut the door window casings out, cut the roof right at the top of the windows, added the material, shortened the roof the required amount, and glued the roof back on. I am in the process of making the drip railing right now. Then again, when you buy a DOZEN of them (putting MY money where MY mouth is, as it was put) makes it easy to experiment with. Also, having the 1:1 does make it easy when reference is right there. Now, how about those who didn't step up and do, now that TWO paths to fixing it have been mentioned/shown? Edited June 8, 2013 by whale392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the nice words, guys. I've been filing away at the pillars to redefine the various groove details. Mike that looks really good, and a lot more accurate! Until guys on the board here pointed it out, I would have never known the many issues that the body has as Fox bodied Mustangs are not my forte. As Jason mentioned, the fly in the ointment will be the front and rear glass. I would have a way to make them, but not everyone is skilled in working with acetate, or "molding" them out of PET. Keep up the excellent work! Bill, preliminary test fitting is showing that with some very minor filing at the lower sides of the front/rear glass, they can be reused by centering them in the frames, and adding strip stock at the top and bottom of the openings. This is one option, but I'll experiment with making new glass because I'm not thrilled with the size of the frosted areas. The side 1/4 glass will have to be made, but these are simple, featureless glass with a very minor curve that can be made easily so I'm not concerned with them. The windshield/rear window are not compound curved, so they shouldn't be too hard either. I've had good luck in the past with Butyrate sheet, it bends without discoloring. We'll see. I'm interested in the Chinese food place, can you give us some insight ???? Nice job on fixing the Mustang and having a 1:1 in the driveway surely helps. Thanks for sharing a simple fix for those that are striving for more accuracy. Easy. Golden Valley in Mesa. Great food, huge portions, all fresh ingredients, and the price is like a flashback to the '80s. Best chain: Panda Express. -MJS Edited November 3, 2013 by Maindrian Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Mike, I see you did yours just a bit different, but with the same results, a much better looking roof. I cut the door window casings out, cut the roof right at the top of the windows, added the material, shortened the roof the required amount, and glued the roof back on. I am in the process of making the drip railing right now. Then again, when you buy a DOZEN of them (putting MY money where MY mouth is, as it was put) makes it easy to experiment with. Also, having the 1:1 does make it easy when reference is right there. Now, how about those who didn't step up and do, now that TWO paths to fixing it have been mentioned/shown? Bradley, I'd like to see how you did that. A dozen? Ya building a whole police force? And yes, having a real one does have its' advantages. Looks a lot better Mike! I'm sure a lot of us will be taking notes. But, we shouldn't have to make major modifications like this to a kit manufactured in 2013. Not many average builders have the skills to unchop a top, make windows, etc. etc. Is the slope of the trunk area/tops of the quarter panels right? It looks like the kit's trunk/quarter panels don't have enough slope to them. Roger, In a perfect world, it would have been as accurate as the average AMT body from the '60s, but it's not, and here I am wanting to make a model of my driver, so here we go. As to the body mod skills, nobody is born knowing all this stuff, and the best way to learn is to start cutting. This is a good beginner/intermediate top mod, because it's not very complicated and the car is pretty square. -MJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies. Boo hoo. Let's fix it. Okay, you have just earned yourself a fan. Great work ethic, great work. I dig it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 No Mike, I am honoring a promise to Ed and Revell. When I first got wind of this project, I swore I would buy a case (which is 12) and so when they hit the shelves (flawed or not) I stood by my word (pre-order notwithstanding!) and bought the case. Now, I have a few to play with and a few going out in trades! With that said, I am building two with the modified roof height, one as an LX Hatch, and one OOB to compare the corrected car to. Even my girlfriend dipped into my case to grab one and try to build it OOB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abell82 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Not to be the nasty here but what's the difference between spending 20 hours to fix Revell's fiasco, and spending 20 hours to fix one of the previous resin fiasco's Because it's plastic and not resin? It all seems SO HYPOCRITICAL to me, that I can make no sense of it. I think I'll just stick to the 1/24th resins I have. At least I don't have to unchop the top! Now where Reliable Resin's phone number... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 You are right Jason. But for those who do want to spend the time to fix this Revell body,at least there are some examples to follow. My first attempt to fix the un-chopped roof was stopped mid-way because Mike here showed a better way than what I was doing. That body (of mine) has since lost its roof and trunk section and is getting a Hatch roof and section grafted on. Mike, thanks again for showing a simpler way to do this. I am using it (with modification) on another body to get the roof dialed in. Maybe I need to start a work-in-progress thread too (or just start it down in the Fox Chassis Community Build thread)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Mike, are you coming to this months Moonlinght meeting?, if so, I hope you will bring the body along with you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) Now the roof is too high!!!!.......................... LOL Sorry, I couldn't resist!!!!!! Looks a LOT better!!!!!! Bradley, being you have so many to play with, wouldn't it be easier to chop the roof off one, leaving a certain amount of post left and then chop the roof off another leaving the entire posts in tact. That way, rather than having to splice in little pieces of plastic, your working with plastic already in the shape you need it to be. I hope this makes sense. Edited June 9, 2013 by Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Ben, because of the angle of the posts, I think that method would not work the way you think it would. Besides, why waste another kit, when you have the skills to do it this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhorseman Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I think I would have tried doing it the way Ben mentioned. On the other hand Mike's way is more cost effective. Really Nice work there Mike, and great looking 1:1 too!! BTW, I like the topic line title. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philo426 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 What you should do is use the corrected body as a master so you or someone else can make resin replacement bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 Looks a lot better Mike! I'm sure a lot of us will be taking notes. But, we shouldn't have to make major modifications like this to a kit manufactured in 2013. Not many average builders have the skills to unchop a top, make windows, etc. etc. Is the slope of the trunk area/tops of the quarter panels right? It looks like the kit's trunk/quarter panels don't have enough slope to them. Yes, the trunk doesn't slope down quite enough, and looks just a bit to bulky above the taillights. It also lacks the subtle kick up at the back edge of the trunk lid. None of this is serious, and I don't think it would detract from the model if it was left that way. But I don't intend to leave it that way. Okay, you have just earned yourself a fan. Great work ethic, great work. I dig it. Thanks! -MJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) Not to be the nasty here but what's the difference between spending 20 hours to fix Revell's fiasco, and spending 20 hours to fix one of the previous resin fiasco's Because it's plastic and not resin? It all seems SO HYPOCRITICAL to me, that I can make no sense of it. I think I'll just stick to the 1/24th resins I have. At least I don't have to unchop the top! Now where Reliable Resin's phone number... It's a hobby, no hypocrisy involved. You may not have to raise the roof on the resin body, but it needs lots of other surgery to be accurate, so no easy way out. It's nice to have a choice of which one to work with, right? -MJS Mike, are you coming to this months Moonlight meeting?, if so, I hope you will bring the body along with you Jonathan, I can't make this meeting, but the next one looks pretty good... -MJS Edited December 7, 2013 by Maindrian Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 I think I would have tried doing it the way Ben mentioned. On the other hand Mike's way is more cost effective. Really Nice work there Mike, and great looking 1:1 too!! BTW, I like the topic line title. Thanks Roy. What you should do is use the corrected body as a master so you or someone else can make resin replacement bodies. I think that this would be a difficult body to cast as is, because of the integral front and rear bumpers. Revell did a complicated die for this one, with several moving components to release the bodies. I believe that to cast it in resin, the front and rear bumpers would have to be cut off, have locator tabs added, and cast separately. If I'm wrong, I hope a caster comes in to correct me. -MJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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