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Looking for some constructive criticism...


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So I've just completed my first Spark Plug detail on a motor that came out of a Ford F150 Super Duty. I'm sure the firing order and such is off. I'll be honest and say that I really rushed the process and know I could have done better.

That being said, I'm looking for some tips on how to get good natural bends at the distributor as well as going into the heads. I also think that the bit I used was a tad bit too big. I need to order me a set.

Information about the wire:

  • Red 30AWG Wrapping Wire


IMG_20130812_215317_zps38bdc9da.jpg

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For a first try, not bad. The wire does look a bit big. But I also use 30 gauge wrapping wire, and I like the way ot looks.

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The first thing I'd improve it the way it lays. Wires have weight and so they would not just stand up like that in big loops. Make them long enough to lay together as if someone had run them in a particular fashion. Drilling out the distributor is pretty tricky. Buying a prewired distrubutor is an option, but I have also just used a piece of tubing. I don't think it looks too bad.

37chev2005.jpg

Keep trying, eventually you'll figure out a way that works for you.

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As Rob said, it's not bad for a first effort, and had posted some good tips. Your plug wires seem appropriate for that scale of engine, IMHO.

I find that leaving the plug wires a little too long before arranging how they lay on the engine usually leaves me enough length to attach to the heads once they are arranged. Remember that the plug wire itself is are made of very flexible heat resistant material and usually won't hold a 90deg bend on it's own. If you see a permanent angle on a real engine it's due to terminal ends/spark plug boots that are made with an angle.

Bill very helpfully posted a pic of what the plug wires look like on a real engine.

If you haven't done this already, try saving some photos (of real engines that you are trying to replicate) from the internet and examine how things look and are routed. If you can't fine what you're looking for on the internet, try going to a wrecking yard (car parts recycler) and see if they will let you roam the yard taking reference photos.

Car parts catalogs are a great reference also.

Edited by blunc
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...or if all else fails, ask here how the plug wires are supposed to be routed for a particular engine, or for help in identifying which engine it is you're trying to model.

As others have already noted, the plug wires should not go into the valve covers on that engine (for the most part, only Mopar Hemis, Ardun hemi-conversions for flatheads, and flathead engines have them in that general location) and so you're going to need to either replace the valve covers or repair the holes, and relocate the plug-ends in the heads as Bill's photo shows.

Otherwise, your work DOES look good, especially for a first try.

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Ok good... This is a "junk" motor that I will probably tear down, weather up, and use it for my upcoming Diorama build. Just thought I would experiment a little bit. Thanks for all the tips guys. Next engine I will be trying this one is a Ferrari Enzo. Given I know that the wiring it completely different but I've got an extra Enzo motor so it will work as another text subject.

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.. (for the most part, only Mopar Hemis, Ardun hemi-conversions for flatheads, and flathead engines have them in that general location)

... and the SOHC Ford FE and Boss 429... :)

Edited by Cato
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Ok good... This is a "junk" motor that I will probably tear down, weather up, and use it for my upcoming Diorama build. Just thought I would experiment a little bit. Thanks for all the tips guys. Next engine I will be trying this one is a Ferrari Enzo. Given I know that the wiring it completely different but I've got an extra Enzo motor so it will work as another text subject.

I believe the Enzo is coil on plug so technically no plug wires.

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The Enzo is a whole different kettle of fish from you average V8 American iron. Go to Google and type in Enzo engine. O-man is correct, the ignition wires run quite a bit differently. There is a block at the rear of the engine and they run down the center and go in next to the intake runner.

Rule of modeling #1 - Do your homework! The internet is a great source of information. You have to see what you are building to make it look right.

Rule # 2- Have fun. That's what this is all about.

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One thing that helped me a lot was getting a pair of round jaw pliers. They make it a lot easier to get smooth bends. You can find them in the beading aisle of a craft store. Yours is definitely better than my first attempt.

this is a good suggestion, I suggest also tweezers used in electronics work that can be found in places like Radio Shack, Fry's Electronics, etc.

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James-some constructive criticism as you asked:

Make a bracket for the AC compressor.

Too much texture in all the paint-use thinner paint, applied lightly. The real castings are not like that.

The thickness of the fan blades should be reduced by at least half-make new ones from thin aluminum like .005" thick).

Use a thin dark wash on the chrome stuff.

Like stated by others-study real photos and you'll see these things.

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James, the fact that you asked for constructive criticism tells us you're serious about improving your skills, as opposed to some of our thin-skinned members whose motto is "I build for me", despite how the kit turned out.

As others have suggested, do a Google search on this truck & engine and see if Ford was still painting the blocks and heads blue. Did Ford offer it with chrome valve covers & alternator bracketry? Painting the model's components (or sometimes assemblies) to match the various shades found on the 1:1 will help you create a more authentic build.

There are some great tips in the posts above about plug wires etc. When you do your Google search, look closely at the way plug wires lay and sag.

Most importantly, don't rush things. You can build this quickly or you can build it nicely.Your choice. Keep posting pics of your work.

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The first thing I'd improve it the way it lays. Wires have weight and so they would not just stand up like that in big loops.

The wire loops are still up there in big arcs, as if they are perfectly rigid. Get them to lay down on the motor a bit and you will be right on there. As for the distributor, I see nothing wrong with it.

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lol... Good Eye Jason. The Vent Troll ended up getting on of my Ford Valve Covers when I was trying to patch my first bad wire job. :lol:

I've just about let this motor go. As far as the texture of the motor goes, I know it's not accurate (not like anything on the motor really is), but I haven't purchased an air compressor yet so I solely rely on Spray Cans.

Right now, I have 2 Ferrari's on the bench so my wiring has been put on hold. I did, however, order me a new set of Pin Vise Bit's so now I can actually drill the proper hole for fitment.

I can't thank you guys enough for the help.

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Unless your non-drilling hand is very steady, you may want to find a small vise to hold your distibutor while you drill the holes you need. Also, once you've found a bit size you like, stock up on them. They tend to break at the least opportune time.

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