Testors One Coat Lacquers

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Mitch, that roof above is after a single coat of clear automotive lacquer, then polished out and buffed.

Mark: to me, this top looks beautiful with none of the slight orange peel I've got on my 1st attempt with the product (I have to start researching that subject next; I'm returning to modeling after 45 years off) and it's plenty shiny. So what I'm hearing from you is that despite the name, multi-coats are mandatory as Cruz advises, but must there be a 2-3 week wait to polish it out and if so, what polishing system did you use? Did you ever apply their "one coat" clear glosscoat as well?

I'm preparing to spend $30 on an aerosol propelled kit which will allow me to get to acrylic paints which I understand are more forgiving and it also contains what appears to be a variety of spray nozels for different situations or perhaps paints. I would prefer cans I suppose as they are a one piece apparatus, but I'm tired of stripping bodies (2 so far from the same kit). I realize there is a learning curve for me, but I really enjoy the build process with the innovative techniques I'm learning here (cutting a syringe for creating spark plugs, using parts from donor kits, etc) more than struggling with paints. Thanks for any info.

[Eshaver]

Generally, since I do exhibit work, I use the High Build Duplicolor Grey Primer. As to testor's One Coat colors , I have no problems with them what so ever . Just watch out using it over most Model master paints . I have had some problems in the "Wet Look " Clear . If you shoot it LIGHT for a couple of coats , no problems .

[Skydime]

I love all the One Coat paints except Fiery Orange, just because I can never get it to come out right. When used in conjunction with wet look clear, I think they look amazing even without polishing. Are the metal flakes large? Of coarse they are. But honestly, the cans originally came out with flames on them. So, what else would you expect? I love how quickly they dry. And a person has to spray the heck out of it to get it to run. Ease of use and super shiny/flakey make things really encouraging for a novice coming into this hobby as well as someone who just has a hard time with sitting down and polishing out a car by hand.

Edited August 22, 2013 by Skydime

[jaymcminn]

Love 'em for those applications where you want something with a big flake. I use the One-Coat paints over either Duplicolor or Tamiya primers with no issues. Not for replica-stock applications, but the results can be excellent.

One-Coat Fiery Orange over Tamiya white primer

Root Beer Brown over Duplicolor Red Oxide Primer

White Lightning and Inca Gold with airbrushed fades

I also use the One-Coat clear exclusively over Testors and Tamiya lacquers. Never had a problem with compatibility.

[Skydime]

Root Beer Brown over Duplicolor Red Oxide Primer

Thanks for sharing that with the group. I have seen the Root Beer look like this before and the red oxide would explain the tone being more red than brown. I kind of thought that but, wasn't 100% sure.

Edited August 24, 2013 by Skydime

[MitchP]

Great responses, especially Ace. I finally figured out how to attach files here. I'm going to send a couple shots which will show the result of my color and clear coats. I used "One Coat" mystic green despite a few amateur peels, it was looking good. I shot 3 clear coats with the can in warm water. On the last coat, I sprayed the clear too close and perhaps too slowly on the driver's door and produced a slight clear foam. Since the striping was already on, the clear got hung up on the striping's top edge and the foam stayed bubbled when it dried. I was too afraid to attempt any sanding or polishing at this point so I let it dry, pulled off the old striping and restriped differently to cover the mistake.

I still can't envision sanding on a painted surface. I hope I can figure out how long to wait before sanding out peel from color and then from a cleared car. Luckily I have your help and a spare junk body to work on. I don't get my next project (Shoebox Ford) until Christmas, which will luckily be more of a technical build than a painting nightmare. Lot's of decals

So, here's what a 56 year old can do in his 1st try:

[MitchP]

Love 'em for those applications where you want something with a big flake. I use the One-Coat paints over either Duplicolor or Tamiya primers with no issues. Not for replica-stock applications, but the results can be excellent.

One-Coat Fiery Orange over Tamiya white primer

Root Beer Brown over Duplicolor Red Oxide Primer

White Lightning and Inca Gold with airbrushed fades

I also use the One-Coat clear exclusively over Testors and Tamiya lacquers. Never had a problem with compatibility.

Jason: wasn't the last car in a recent MCM insert in the Funny Car review issue? If so, I bought that Inca Gold for my next summer's '55 chevy pro mod build. The '55 is supposed to be NOS, but I'm gonna try to stuff a resin blown engine in there...

[scalenut]

In my own experience, the "One Coat" just isn't. It's not any higher build than a lot of other rattlecan paints, but it may have a little more pigment, so you can get away with 5 or more coats, no problem. I've seen a lot of guys try to get by with one coat, and it typically tends to 'wick-up' and get thick around panel cut-lines, raised details, etc. (noticeably darker in these areas) especially if it's shot over bare plastic.

"one coat" means that the colors can be sprayed and achieve a decent gloss in one step (vs a specific base coat-clear coat system).....not literally that is't meant to be sprayed in one pass(coat).

Edited August 28, 2013 by scalenut