Using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine

[martinfan5]

9 minutes ago, Miatatom said:

The kitchen floor looks great!

As others have said, I use it for clear parts and add it to craft acrylics to spray chassis parts. Tried it once on a body. Not impressed. There's other stuff that works way better.

I agree, it works wonders on clear parts,  Future, make your clear parts and your floor look great!

I went thru a period of trying to make it work, and it just never would, it didnt matter if the paint was a week old or four years old , it spider webbed, it didnt matter which method I used to apply, I wont ever try it again .

Edited February 27, 2019 by martinfan5

[RichCostello]

When using it for clear parts, do you brush it on, or can you just dip the part in it?

[Tommy124]

7 hours ago, RichCostello said:

When using it for clear parts, do you brush it on, or can you just dip the part in it?

You can do both but dipping has more advantages. It's quicker and you don't have brush strokes. But I guess for both methods the key is to keep the parts free from dust and bubbles... 

[Evlwevl]

If the tree is small enough, I dip the entire tree then wick off any excess onto a paper towel at the corners of the tree  while tapping it several times on the paper towel to remove any drips . I will usually continue to check for areas where pledge might be pooled up.  As the pledge starts to dry you might see white hazing forming in the center of each of your window panels but that’s OK, it will dry completely crystal clear as you see in this last photo. You can see the difference in the treated area of the glass and the non-treated sprue ID portion. If you stand the tree up on something you’ll reduce the chance of getting plant or dust falling on 

[Darren B]

I use future to attach stuff to my builds. Great clear coat but it also lets you attach other items to your builds. A couple more coats and the edges of the images disappear.

Edited July 17, 2019 by Darren B

[Jhedir6]

What's the current look of the Future Clear everyone is using? They seem to change the label a couple times a year. The only version I can find so far in Canada is this.

https://www.amazon.ca/Johnson-11182-27Oz-Pledge-Futureshine/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_121_t_0/140-5950643-9420803?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7RAFB58DMFDD7A2X8063

Now, its not $22 bucks like Amazon has it listed for, my local grocery store has it for like $7 right now. 

My question is, is this the right version for clearing? I've got another brand of floor wax I'm using but wanted to try this stuff out. Any pics or links to the current labeled correct product would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

[Hotrod 97]

Yep, that’s the stuff! It works great for clearing and, if brushed on, can give flat black paint a “leather” look (that comes in handy for leather/vinyl interior pieces).

[peteski]

I believe that the info on Swanny's site is still current (from 2015).  Worth a read and look!

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

 

Edited September 10, 2019 by peteski

[Casey]

?

 

Edited September 10, 2019 by Casey

[peteski]

22 hours ago, Jhedir6 said:

My question is, is this the right version for clearing? I've got another brand of floor wax I'm using but wanted to try this stuff out. Any pics or links to the current labeled correct product would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Why people keep calling it wax?!

Future (or whatever the latest iteration is called) is a floor finish. Waxes have no thickness - this is a clear coat which has some body to it.  If you have something else you are using now to add a gloss to your models, it is also likely not a wax, but some sort of a clear coat.

[SfanGoch]

Using incorrect terminology is fairly prevalent. It's the same as when someone doesn't understand the difference between "dry"/"cure" or "sprue"/"spruce".

[peteski]

17 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

Using incorrect terminology is fairly prevalent. It's the same as when someone doesn't understand the difference between "dry"/"cure" or "sprue"/"spruce".

Still irks me. Understanding what you are using and how it works makes for a better modeler.   I'm just trying to teach.  Same like when people call water-based paints "Acrylics", even though there are organic-solvent based acrylic lacquers and enamels.

[Jhedir6]

On 9/10/2019 at 11:09 PM, peteski said:

Why people keep calling it wax?!

Future (or whatever the latest iteration is called) is a floor finish. Waxes have no thickness - this is a clear coat which has some body to it.  If you have something else you are using now to add a gloss to your models, it is also likely not a wax, but some sort of a clear coat.

You're right, its not wax but a finish or top coat. I just used the wrong word, what I get for posting at 1am in the morning from work. 

Thanks for the replies tho, I picked up some to try out....now if I could just get some time to sit and actually get some build time in. I've got some clear parts I want to dip and see how they turn out. I'll also find something to airbrush too as as test. Hopefully this week, but my truck is going in for body work at the end of the week and I have some prep work to get done on it before Friday.....probably won't have time to build models this week either. 

But I appreciate the replies.

[High octane]

On 2/26/2019 at 3:32 PM, Bill J said:

I finally gave in and bought a bottle of this stuff. I am usually not a clear coat person, I look at it as one more opportunity to ruin my paint job. I have ruined a few with Testor's  enamel clear, Tamiya TS-13 and a try of clear lacquer. I live where it is warm and dry and really have not had problems with decals or plain finishes.

So, I do have a car that is partly painted gold that I need to clear before applying decals and after seeing a modeling buddies car that he coated with the floor shine, I thought I would give it a try. Worse case, I am out like $6.18 and I can use the stuff on the floor or something.

I have excellent luck with the Tamiya TS paints, although the TS-13 ruined a car that had been painted for years when I decided to make it more shiny. Now it is crazed and pretty much ruined. Not sure why that happened. Paint is such a finicky critter. Today I sprayed some Scalefinishes acrylic enamel  paint over some Tamiya white primer, which is my normal procedure and the paint weirded out in spots, having to strip the whole thing. That only happened one other time, maybe I sprayed too much on at once.

Hmmm, I've never had any problems with Tamiya paints and also TS-13 as I've found over the years that Tamiya, Testors, Black Gold, MCW, and Dupli-Color paints are all compatible.

[randyc]

I read the thread (can't remember seeing it) and searched the term "freeze".  Question is, will this stuff freeze?  I do my work in unheated outdoor building.  If I leave it there, will it freeze?  I can bring it in, just need to make sure I do so.  I bring everything water-based in during the winter, so not a big deal unless I forget it.   This is my first try with this stuff.   Actually may be second try - seems like first try when it was still "Future" didn't work for me.

[Snake45]

3 hours ago, randyc said:

I read the thread (can't remember seeing it) and searched the term "freeze".  Question is, will this stuff freeze?  I do my work in unheated outdoor building.  If I leave it there, will it freeze?  I can bring it in, just need to make sure I do so.  I bring everything water-based in during the winter, so not a big deal unless I forget it.   This is my first try with this stuff.   Actually may be second try - seems like first try when it was still "Future" didn't work for me.

Being water-based, I would assume it would freeze. Bring it in. 

[randyc]

3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Being water-based, I would assume it would freeze. Bring it in. 

My thought as well.  But if I forget... it happens...

[SoDak1]

Hi all, I've tried this stuff over and over and never get good results. I've brushed and dipped painted bodies in future and after it dries it cracks all over like spider webs. At first I thought I wasnt letting my paint cure enough and it was out gassing through or having a reaction. A while back I brushed a body painted back in 2010 or so and it looked great for a couple weeks then cracks all over. Very dissapointed that happened. So far I've used it over testors enamel and rustoleum enamel. Maybe once over krylon fusion? 

What is the problem? Does future only work over acrylics and lacquers or what? Funny thing is I use future on clear parts all the time and never a problem so I know it's something with the paint. Any thoughts?

[Bugatti Fan]

Enamel take ages to dry out thoroughly, a!though they feel dry to the touch. Coating with an acrylic product effectively creates a deal as it dries out a lot quicker. Enamel trying to dry out underneath may be the cause of the cracking and lifting. Generally the rule of thumb is enamel and lacquers at ok if used on top of acrylics but not  the other way around.

Mind you  acrylics over enamel could be utilised for modelling distressed vehicles with the paint blistering off.

[Bugatti Fan]

Correction!!!    In my last post 'creates a deal' should read 'creates a seal'.    Sorry about the typo.....Should have checked!

[John1955]

I am unable to spend too much time on just one kit as I build many, kind of like an assembly line in my basement work area. I also have two rooms full of models on 4 foot by 8 foot plywood shelves, going back 60 years of building models, so I restore older already built models. I use industrial Endust which is available everywhere and gives a nice glossy shine to older models and even to models that have been molded in color. It makes them look professionally painted and it's not expensive and takes only a few minutes to wipe on with a soft cloth. 

Endust also works well on freshly painted and built new models, and within minutes, the scent goes away and it can fool even expert judges at model shows. To make chrome shine brilliantly on new kits or older already built ones, I use Windex (or generic versions). Windex is also great for cleaning plastic windows, but I have found that contact lens cleaners or eye glass cleaners are even better for that. 
 

[peteski]

Future (or whatever name it now has) is not a wax for shining model's surface - it is actually a clear acrylic coating (it has some body to it).  Endust is just a liquid that will not coat the model with a layer of clear acrylic resin.

But while not really a subject for this thread,  Endust does sound like a good cleaner for older dusty models.

[Nazz]

 Thanks for the tip John , I will have to try Endust on some old chrome and see for myself.

[PatW]

We don't have the majority of products you have in the USA so we have to find alternatives.

[peteski]

1 hour ago, PatW said:

We don't have the majority of products you have in the USA so we have to find alternatives.

"The complete Future" website I referenced 18 posts ago shows some possible Future alternatives in countries outside USA.

Here is the link again : http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html