Jantrix Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Sanding sticks are good for most things but I'm having difficulty sanding the ejector marks on the inside of a '39 Chevy cab. Has anyone invented a home made tool for sanding in such closed locations? Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my80malibu Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 There is a device called a NiC sander available from,Pro Motorcar Products, used by the body shop guys.,available at most automotive paint stores. It is like a pen shaped instrument with an insert of fiberglass that can be adjusted out when it wears down,the bristles of fiberglass make short work of small sanding areas. without a lot of uneccesary damage. here is the website www.promotorcarproducts.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 There is a device called a NiC sander available from,Pro Motorcar Products, Holy COW! Gabriel you are a genius! I actually have one of these in a tool box Id gotten from my uncle when he went into a care facility, but I had no idea what it was. It worked out great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 How do you use the thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 Jim, the tip is abrasive. Effectively a sanding pen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Sanding sticks are good for most things but I'm having difficulty sanding the ejector marks on the inside of a '39 Chevy cab. Has anyone invented a home made tool for sanding in such closed locations? Any help would be appreciated. Rob, I don't often smooth out ejector pin marks on the underside of roofs, but when I do, I like using well-worn pieces of Wet Or Dry sandpaper, and my index finger. This is one place where the "risk" of sanding a "dimple" into the plastic surface generally (in my experience anyway) isn't that much of a problem, given the concave shape of the inside of most model car body roofs. By "well-worn" I mean sandpaper that has lost its original stiffness, so that when wet, it's actually quite limp, flexible. I simply place the sandpaper, with water, on the offending ejector pin point, and sand away, in a bit of a circular motion, stopping to check frequently to see if I've removed the raised portions of them, and adding a bit of putty if there is a recessed spot or two (not uncommon, BTW) and simply repeat the process until I have the surface I am looking for. It can be helpful to have a bit of 360-grit here, as that coarser grit removes offending material more quickly, and can easily be "polished" up with some 400-grit. Takes a bit of time generally, but I have gotten the smooth contours that I think you are seeking. Sometimes, no special tools other than those on the ends of your fingers are all that it takes. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 the first contractor i worked for (1970) told me the same thing. of course, he had never seen the micro-mark catalog! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 Thanks Art. Good advice. It is also clear you are a much more patient man than I. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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