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"Hydrographics"...


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"It's a multi-step process that can be applied to metal, plastic, glass and fiberglass. The surface is cleaned and prepped the same as it would be for paint. Then the desired pattern and the part are submerged in water, where the pattern adheres to the part. Once that pattern is rinsed and dried, it is clearcoated." This is an excerpt from a paragraph in Hot Rod Magazine, October 2014, about a process that they call "hydrographics". The article advises that it is also called "water-transfer printing" and "hydro printing". The designs can be applied "to just about any hard, non-porous surface". Except for submerging the part in water, it sounds a lot like applying decals. Life imitates art, imitates life...

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Scott, they just had a tiny picture with the design already applied to valve covers; it kinda looked like carbon-fiber.

Cliff, I'm not looking for info, I just thought this was an interesting crossover between "their" world and "our" world, and how sophisticated technical terms can make the simplest things seem so exotic. I think it would be neat to include the term "hydrographics" in a spec sheet about a model ("...and the hydrographics were from my stash.") I have another bit of text from the same issue that, when a few nouns are changed, applies to some builder's perceptions of many of the long-term projects that we see in the forum. I'll share that another time.

Andy, I think what you're referring to is what Hank Borger called "swirladelic". Basically, it involved a container of water that was deep enough to submerge the body of a car model and at least two colors of spray paint. You paint the body with a base color and allow it to dry. Then, you immerse the body, which should be mounted on a wire hanger or something similar, rocker panels down (but there's another school of thought here). Spray the paint from the other can onto the surface of the water. It will float and make some interesting patterns. I don't remember how to judge when to do so, but at some point after spraying the paitn, you slowly raise the body and lift it out of the water. When that application dries, hit it with a coat of clear. Please keep in mind that I'm writing this from memory of an article that I first read about 44 years ago, so it might not be exactly correct.

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Andy, I think what you're referring to is what Hank Borger called "swirladelic". Basically, it involved a container of water that was deep enough to submerge the body of a car model and at least two colors of spray paint. You paint the body with a base color and allow it to dry. Then, you immerse the body, which should be mounted on a wire hanger or something similar, rocker panels down (but there's another school of thought here). Spray the paint from the other can onto the surface of the water. It will float and make some interesting patterns. I don't remember how to judge when to do so, but at some point after spraying the paitn, you slowly raise the body and lift it out of the water. When that application dries, hit it with a coat of clear. Please keep in mind that I'm writing this from memory of an article that I first read about 44 years ago, so it might not be exactly correct.

That's pretty much it. You can spray one or two colors on the surface of the water, but obviously this is a completely hit-or-miss process... there's no way to really control what you get. Even if you see a cool looking swirl pattern in the paint, when that paint transfers to the 3-dimensional body, it will change. In most cases what you get is just a drab, dull mess. But you can get lucky and get some cool effects. Just not usually...

swirladelic_zps3bed471c.jpg

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I used that system back 1971 or so. The model mags of the time called it 'Psycho Swirl'. We applied a semi flat white base coat....then submerged the model in a bucket of water.....sprayed the colors wanted in the water surface.....make a pattern or not......pull the model, nose first, up through the paint. It does go on like a decal....as you may need to blot out some trapped water. Fun....but hard to maintain control or scale.

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I used that system back 1971 or so. The model mags of the time called it 'Psycho Swirl'. We applied a semi flat white base coat....then submerged the model in a bucket of water.....sprayed the colors wanted in the water surface.....make a pattern or not......pull the model, nose first, up through the paint. It does go on like a decal....as you may need to blot out some trapped water. Fun....but hard to maintain control or scale.

What your talking about Dave, is not the Hydragraphifics shown in the two videos above. Your back to what Harry was talking about. This Hydrographifics is not what I saw in magazines back in the early 70's. Never tried the 'Psyco Swirl'/"swiradelic" thing you, Harry, and Andy were talking about. But, I've thought about trying it several times over the years. Hydragraphic is simular and different at same time.

Scott

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Scott, they just had a tiny picture with the design already applied to valve covers; it kinda looked like carbon-fiber.

Cliff, I'm not looking for info, I just thought this was an interesting crossover between "their" world and "our" world, and how sophisticated technical terms can make the simplest things seem so exotic. I think it would be neat to include the term "hydrographics" in a spec sheet about a model ("...and the hydrographics were from my stash.") I have another bit of text from the same issue that, when a few nouns are changed, applies to some builder's perceptions of many of the long-term projects that we see in the forum. I'll share that another time.

t.

John, I know you weren't looking for info', but 1 of the other members was. I wasn't referring to the "dipping/swirl" paint jobs, but the actual process you mentioned, water transfer prints. It WAS brought up in a thread some time ago, just can't recall who started it, maybe Dr. cranky??

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What your talking about Dave, is not the Hydragraphifics shown in the two videos above. Your back to what Harry was talking about. This Hydrographifics is not what I saw in magazines back in the early 70's. Never tried the 'Psyco Swirl'/"swiradelic" thing you, Harry, and Andy were talking about. But, I've thought about trying it several times over the years. Hydragraphic is simular and different at same time.

Scott

I see now.....the videos were not showing up when I post. Thanks....

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BUT, these 'decals' MUST be applied to a SMOOTH surface... remember the Saturn Ion?? they had replacement interior parts that had this 'hydro transfer' applied in various designs, BUT, they[saturn] never got the concept of the 'smooth surface' thing and as a result, replaced many[most ALL] pieces as the 'decal' would just come off!!! especially after a long hot day in the sun... I tried to explain to them about 'decals' sticking to a 'grainy' surface...

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BUT, these 'decals' MUST be applied to a SMOOTH surface... remember the Saturn Ion?? they had replacement interior parts that had this 'hydro transfer' applied in various designs, BUT, they[saturn] never got the concept of the 'smooth surface' thing and as a result, replaced many[most ALL] pieces as the 'decal' would just come off!!! especially after a long hot day in the sun... I tried to explain to them about 'decals' sticking to a 'grainy' surface...

This is not true. There are plenty of people dipping textured parts. For example: The Xbox 360 video game controller has a bumpy, grainy texture. It takes the dipping just fine. These are handles and rubbed for hours at a time without failure.

One thing auto manufacturers have always estimated is just how hot it can get in certain regions, and they don't make the parts strong enough to handle it. When I was a Jaguar tech, we had a HUGE problem with the XK coupes and the Aston Martins. The rear window was at an extreme angle and would magnify the sun's heat, curling up the parcel shelf in the rear. I watched it happen to the only XJ220 we had in as well. The dash curled up.

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