realgone58 Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Some resin kits are accurate and high quality, some are not so much...this falls into the latter category. I do wonder why some resin casters even bother if they can't get the body shape and details accurate. This one isn't at the same level as a TKM resin kit though.... Exactly. If it ain't right..........don't do it. Then we won't have anything to complain about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk11 Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I am inclined to be just as fussy as some of the rivet counters on here but I've found it's not worth the stress. Just do your research and find the kits that match your experience level. R & R's stuff is quite primitive but I'm willing to work with it if it's all there is and it is just plastic after all. Another challenge to improve my skills mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Maybe this will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yahshu Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Maybe this will help. Ok, you can really see the work needed now, so how do I fix it? Going by the pics moving the B pilliar back on it's own isn't going to work. The C pilliar should be a fairly simple to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 The B pillar needs to be angled the opposite way that it's angled on the resin body-it should be angled back, not forward. The C pillar looks passable, bit that thin glass divider strip just ahead of the C pillar is also angled the wrong way on the resin body... it should angle back, not forward. The vent window divider strip, the B pillar and the divider strip just ahead of the C pillar should all lean back and lean at the same angle. The D pillar is also going to need attention. Notice how on the real car it starts out much wider at the roof, then tapers and gets much slimmer at the bottom; on the model the pillar sides are almost parallel. Also, that little "kick up" where the D pillar meets the body is completely missing on the resin piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 This one is a perfect example of something I've maintained for better than 20 years now: A resin transkit (or complete kit for that matter!) is only as good as the master model made to cast from. For that reason, the really top resin casters are very careful about accuracy, and work diligently to make sure that any model they cast is as accurate as possible given the limitations that can be inherent in such a project. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Duster Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Well I'm going to go with the R&R unit. The slight problems can be changed. I'm hard pressed to shell out the big bucks for the one on E bag. If I was still working and not on disabilty. I'd spend more. Just my 2 cents worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Duster Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 I just wanted to update this with this picture guys. Can't remember where I got this pic. But the front door glass seams short in this pic also. Old drag car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Maybe this will help. Door handles are in the wrong place, too. Easy enough to cut off, but still... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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