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1/16 Scale Army Vega Funny Car - Finished 10/14/2018


Mooneyzs

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Mike.. thank you my friend.

Darryl... thank you for checking in. I appreciate the kind words.

Dave... thank you. I am hoping it will look pretty good once it gets painted and the rivets installed. I actually cant wait to see how it will look....lol

Jim... thank you for the kind words and for following along in this build.

Dave... no worries my friend. Thank you for checking in on this. I hope you have beem able to get those problems worked thru. I am assuning its in the '37. The engine you have been working in is gorgeous by the way. I am looking forward to when you get back to your pro mod build, love seeing your updates.

Steve.... thank you very much on the kind words. The fix ended up being a little easier than i originally thought when I broke it...lol i cant wait to see it with paint myself. I think with the paint Ibam gonna use and the rivets should make it pop pretty good.

Well Fellas I wanted to let you know that I spent a little bit of time working on the tins again last night. Made some good progress on the bottom side sanding and fixing some stuff. I still have some minor fixing and shaoing to do but hoping to work a little on it when I get home and getting some more primer on it tonight. Hopefully I will get what I wanr done so I can show a few more pics on it. Thank you for following along.

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Was out garage saling today and found a hand-cranked Craftsman pin vice for $2, I was thinking if/when I ever get into a rivet frenzy like you have, Chris, I'll be set! Hope you didn't do EVERY rivet hole with one of the pin vices w/ the little thumb spinner...I feel like I could probably get a job in your rivet factory w/ genuine (hand) powered tools!

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OMG! :o Chris, I've been away way too long mate and you have been major busy I see. :)

Sorry for the misfortune with the tin, but you recovered like the "Pro" that you are bud, FANTASTIC work. (insert thumbs up here... ;) )

Glad things are all going well now mate.

Cheers

Greg

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Joe... Thank you. You are gonna laugh but I actually did them all by hand with my pin vise which doesn't have a thumb spinner. I can show you a pic of it. I think I would be afraid to use some sort of powered tool on them considering the drill bit I was using was a .016" Dia.

Greg..... How's my Aussie Mate doing?? Its great to hear from you. Thank you for the kind words. I hope that you have been able to get some bench time yourself. I sure miss seeing updates on your builds. I really admire your work. I am looking forward to more of your awesome 1/12 camaro pro mod ;) . Cheers!

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Ok Fellas... I have done a little work the past two days... not much but making baby steps on the tins again. I was able to start doing some work on the bottom side and the start of reshaping the rear bottom piece. as well as start fixing the top. Got some primer shot to check my work again and I will need to add some more bondo and do some more sanding. Here is the progress I made:

I got the rear top pretty much done where I am happy with it but in the right middle of the top area I need to add some more bondo to fix one area you can see here in the pic. Then I am thinking I am going to try and add some more bondo to the area were the pieces meet that are angled. Oh yea I also scribbed in the panel lines on the back piece too:

DP-Army-Vega5420-1_zps9ef1d881.jpg

Here is the back side after doing some cutting, sanding and trimming on the back edge piece. this area needs some more work and bondo added:

DP-Army-Vega5422-1_zpse92b6b01.jpg

Here is the bottom with the support piece now added, I don't think it looks too bad and works well:

DP-Army-Vega5424-1_zpsfabdccac.jpg

I keep having issued with the stupid firewall. this area keeps popping back out and I need to add some more bondo now to try and get rid of that spot showing up. you can see it runs the whole length of the firewall:

DP-Army-Vega5425-1_zps8336f7b3.jpg

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Geez!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you posted a update like 3 minuets after I posted. Now I can sleep well tonight. Chris do you have a picture of the show card next to the car with the particulars? On your seam it looks like you are getting massive shrinkage. I know you want to keep rolling on the build however, you may want to consider leaving it alone for a few days and let the solvents calm down! Haze a guide coat on what you have in a few days sand that and see how it looks, if you need more filler so be it! I think I would let it settle down for a bit Chris. I will never be as skilled as you are at modeling but I am a expert on 1:1 custom paint. Man you have come so far on this amazing journey!!! Step back from that portion of the build for a few days. I think you will be glad you did! I give you this advice because I care!!!! You have so many in awe of this build and your skills!!! I think it would be safe to say that you have fans (including me) that anticipate the next update. We can wait!!!! We all know the final product will be off the hook! Peace My Friend. Jimmy 'Rass"

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Paul.... I was using plastikote spot fill and primer which is a lacquer base. I am sure it its making the bondo pop because of the solvent in it. I usually hit a couple of light coats over the areas with bondo first

James... Thank you. Yeah I think the primer is making the bondo swell in that area since its lacquer based. I have been usinimg this Plastikote primer for years and it has worked good for me all these years but i should have known better to get a few lighter coats on first. I keep debating if I should pick up a cheap HVLP gun at harbor freight to use as a primer gun and pick up some PPG primer Debating on some K36 or DP50 gray primer.

Edited by Mooneyzs
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Chris, I sent you a pm on 5/29 about primers and fillers. Get yourself a can of the product I mentioned and try it out!!!! I don't think you will be disappointed. At this stage of the game I don't think it would be wise to put another brand of product over what you have (including the ones I have in the pm) I have experience with both of the PPG products and they are great, however I think you will have worse problems if you top coat over what you have. The PPG is fairly hot!!! much more so than the Plastikote. Let it settle down for awhile and work with what you have been using! it would break my heart to see all of that awesome work turn into a pile of goo. Anything on the Show Card next to the car?

I have been meaning to tell you I love your Quote. Great words to live by!!!! Jimmy "RASS"

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James... Thank you for the recommendation on that primer. I have a Napa close by and may have to give it a try. I have been a big fan of PPG and HOK products over the years but I have a feeling the napa products will be a little cheaper on the pocket book. I will have to look up and see how much that primer is there.

As far as what is up next for this build. I was really hoping to just finish up the tins to where they would be ready for paint. Inam really close to being there but I was debating on getting back to the body and doing some more body work on it so 8 can get some primer on the body. ButI think I really want to jump back to the engine. Thanks for the kind words on my quote.

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Chris: I don't know if you just showed it or if I just noticed it, but the detail work on the under side of the tin is simply amazing!! You are doing some incredible work, I'm starting to think you and John are the same person with a split personality! I'm having the same swelling problem using Tamiya putty with Tamiya primer and its getting frustrating.

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Jim.... Thank you. the bottom of the tins have been pretty much like that the whole time other than the support piece I added after breaking the tins . I think it was hard to see it with no primer on it before. John and I are different people, he is my big brother and I hope to be able to be as good as him when i grow up....lol

As far as this is happening with the tamiya primer and putty. Next time do a few mist coats (2-3 min) before you start laying down a heavier coat. Its rhe solvent in tye primer causing the putty to swell. I have seen rhis same thin happen of you just sand off emblems sometimwa the primer will make it pop as well.

Edited by Mooneyzs
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Looking very good! The detail your are putting into this one is amazing! It's great to see that you're able to work with this project for so long time without any long breaks. I know I couldn't do that.

And hey: Happy Birthday!!!! B)

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Chris, I use PPG and HOK products exclusively on all my 1:1 and love their products and would not use anything else on 1:1. As I had mentioned before I just got back into modeling in January of this year after a 25ish year hiatus. I really found the NAPA products my accident! So many of the detail products, paint, primers etc were not around the last time I picked up a model. Over those years I continued to collect kits and buy a modeling magazine here and there so when I got back at the bench I went nuts and bought all the modeling primers, metalizing paints etc etc. I messed around on some glue bombs that I bought at yard sales and played Mad Scientist with my new found goodies ( still haven't completed a build yet, my bad) being used to 1:1 materials I just didn't like any of the modeling primers or big box brands ( I have a box of all brands, I tried them all) so I went to my PPG 1:1 primers but mixing small amounts was a drag and I am so anal about how clean I keep my guns ( I have 14 large guns, 5 midsize and 8 Airbrushes) these have been purchased over a 35 + year period but they all look and perform like the day I got them. Putting primer in my iwata LPH 50 gave me heartburn. So I'm in NAPA In Feb getting a belt for my Snow Blower ( I know you are grinning being in AZ) I take a look at the paint rack of rattle cans and I find the primers I listed. I brought one can home and tried it and it is the real deal. Is it as good as the 1:1, no, but it's the best I have found in a rattle can and it beats mixing small amounts of 1:1. On 1:1 I do most high fill sanding dry so I don't like products that load paper, the NAPA primer powders up so nice, no swelling and takes tops coats without sand scratches, swelling etc. As I have read many have success with the brands I have tried and don't like and more power to them!!! But if they tried this brand I think they would ditch the rest.

You still have to use best practices flash times, prep etc, It's not magic in a can but for now it's all I will use for modeling, I also like the adhesion promoter before I lay anything down on the styrene, as it seems to seal the plastic and accept primer better. That may seem like a paradox but it works for me! If I told you all the stuff I have been experimenting with on flat stock and sprue you would think I'm a sick puppy. For me it's part of the learning curve in working with plastic again and I find it interesting, I have always been of a curious nature so it's fun. I hope you give it a try, it will only cost you $13 dollars for a 15 oz can. If you don't like it I will buy it from you, that's how confident I am that it will perform for you!!!

I see you have a Birthday!!!! Happy Birthday Chris and many more!!!!! Any Info on that Show Card? Jimmy "RASS"

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PauI, Here is the information I sent to Chris:

NAPA/Martin Senour Paints, They all are true Lacquer Primer Surfacers they are as follows:

#7283 Red Primer Surfacer, #7284 Hot Rod Gray (black), #7285 Lt Grey Primer Surfacer

Adhesion Promoter # 7223 Polypropylene Clear Primer

Great Products!!! I hope this helps! Jimmy "RASS"

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Niko... thank you very much for the kind words and for the birthday wishes. I have to admit that it has been really hard keeping my attention to this tin work. I feel like i am so burnt out in it but I know I am so close to having all of the bodywork done. I guess that is what has kept me focusing on it. Then it can be painted and done. Lol but I really want to get back to the engine and other parts of this build.

Brad... thank you my big brother. Now I am one year close to the big 40...lol

Tyrone... thank you my friend. I need to get this one done so I can finally jump into a pro mod build like you. I still would love to see you do a 1/16th scale pro mod one of these days.

James.... thank you so much for the info. I think I am gonna have to pick up a can of the napa primer and try it out for sure. For some reason I thought it was the type you had to mix at first and disnt realize it was in rattle cans. Rhank you for the Bday Wishes. I am hoping to get the tins sanded from the mud work I did last night and get another shot of primer on the tins today.

Scott... thanks and thank you for the bday wishes.

Edited by Mooneyzs
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Hello Fellas.... well I was able to get some more bondo on the tins a couple days ago and shot another coat primer on the part today. I am pretty happy with it now still some minor stuff but very close to having it done. Here is what it looks like now.....

I had to fix the rear package tray portion it was bugging me:

DP-Army-Vega5431-1_zps3dbe6b2c.jpg

I added more bondo on the firewall:

DP-Army-Vega5434-1_zps614943e1.jpg

Fixed minor areas on the bottom side as well:

DP-Army-Vega5439-1_zps1df03b99.jpg

Here is the package tray with a few coats of primer on it now:

DP-Army-Vega5440-1_zps967fdb9f.jpg

Here is the bottom side of the package tray:

DP-Army-Vega5442-1_zpsfce78d58.jpg

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Here is a shot of the bottom, I think I can call the bottom done now just needs sanding and will probably get another coat of primer when I prime the whole tins again:

DP-Army-Vega5447-1_zpsd7c37eb0.jpg

Here is the firewall, Looks much better after adding some more bondo and primer:

DP-Army-Vega5449-1_zpsa06d722b.jpg

View from another angle, needs a little sanding and good to go:

DP-Army-Vega5452-1_zpse7305906.jpg

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Chris…….best looking tins I ever saw……..they look better than the 1:1 :) …….pure perfection Little Brother…….hope you have some "Depends" for tomorrows up-date on the HH…….your gonna need them :P .

Edited by John Teresi
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