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S Pruitt W925 Kenworth


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Well, that depends. The AMT "Movin' On" Kenworth is just the standard AMT kit with some Movin' On-ish decals. Depending on which truck you want to make, you have some work ahead of you. The AMT kit is a 1968-72, where the trucks in the TV show were a 1973 for the pilot & a 1974 VIT for the series. So, if you want an accurate "Movin' On" truck, then the kit has issues, but if you just want a nice looking W923 (spring suspension - W923, tandem torsion bar suspension - W925), then you have the right kit.

I built that kit last in 1984, and if I remember correctly it was a typical AMT kit - very little fits well without some work. As far as rare, well, all the AMT Kenworth W900 trucks are rare as the cab/hood molds were supposedly modified/destroyed to make the Kenworth T600 kit back in the 1990s.

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You'd like to build an accurate truck from the TV series? Well, here we go! You'll need the frame & short hood from the AMT kit, the cab/sleeper & front bumper from the Revell of Germany W900 kit, a tandem torsion bar suspension from the AMT kit (if your lucky) or a resin kit from P&P Resin Works or Melbourne Model Truck Accessories, and a Cummins VT903 with a 10-speed gear-box. Now, the truck in the show was "supposed" to have the VT903, but some of the trucks used in filming had a Cummins NTC350 with a Fuller RT12515 15-speed transmission. Tires were 10.00x22.

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Sagehorn's truck is one of the TV trucks but it has been updated to Air Glide 100 8 bag suspension instead of the torsion bar it originally had, the wheels has been changed to one piece Alcoa's instead of the original lock ring wheels and the engine in it now is a Cummins NTC Big Cam 3.

If I would do the Movin' On truck correctly (wich I will some day) I think I would start with the Revell AG W900 and use the short hood from either the AMT W925 or a Revell snap W900 Aerodyne, and use the wheels from the AMT W925 or maybe even the larger wheels from the AMT White Freightliner.

I believe the AMT W925 frame is too short for the 60 inch double bunk VIT sleeper, and the Revell suspension are a bit difficult to change as some of the suspension parts is molded to the frame rails, so I would cut off the Revell frame in front of the rear suspension and replace the rear part with a piece of the AMT frame (either the AMT W925 or K923 will do as the rear part of them are pretty much the same)...and as the original AMT W925 with torsion suspension is a bit hard to find P&P Resin Works http://www.ppvintagekits.com/ or Melbourne Model Truck Accessories http://mmtaer.webs.com/ comes to the rescue as they have resin copys of the KW tandem torison bar suspension.

The correct paint can be found at http://scalefinishes.com and http://modeltruckin.com does Movin' On decals for both 1:25 and 1:16 scale.

The Cummins VT903 engine can be found at Auslowe Model Accessories http://www.auslowe.com.au/ and here is a couple of pictures from Tim Ahlborns http://timstrucks.com site to prove that one of the TV trucks had that engine....but of course a Cummins NTC would also work.

bettypullingonsonny_a.jpg

bettyundersonnyhood_a.jpg

Edited by Force
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What is the difference in length between the short hood and the long one? Would the extra length be removed from behind the front fenders? I'm also assuming that by doing this, the cab would have to be moved forward by the same amount removed from the hood. Is that correct?

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I did some research and have found out that the 1967-82 Kenworth W 900 short hood is 63 inches and the 1970-82 extended hood is 74 inches so the difference in real life is 11 inches.

That difference in 1:25 scale is a touch over 11 millimeters, I measured the hoods from the 3 kits we are talking about and the Revell short hood is 61.6 millimeters, the AMT short hood is 61.3-61.4 millimeters and the Revell AG extended hood is 72.2 millimeters, all 3 measured without the grille...so you can do the math yourself.

If you want to cut down an extended hood the cut should be just behind the front fenders so they are the same on both hoods...and the difference in taper on the top of the hoods isn't that bad, maybe 0.5 millimeter between the hoods at the same place lengthwise where the cut would be, so it would not be that noticeable.

So of course you can cut down an extended hood to do a short hood if you want to....and yes...you have to move the cab forward the same amount the hood is shorter.

Edited by Force
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