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KJ790

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    KJ Humphreys

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  1. I agree, I am very impressed with the one that I have.
  2. I would buy a couple 9800 cabs if possible. I have been planning on scratch building them, but if I could buy one that would save me a ton of time. I would vote for 1/25 scale, as the 1/25 scale Moebius chassis and suspension would be the most accurate for a 9800 cab in my opinion.
  3. I was finally able to get some outdoor shots of my scratch built Peterbilt 372.
  4. Almost complete. Just a few more details and then I need to wait for nice weather for some outdoor shots.
  5. Back to working on the cab. The front of the cab was finished off with all of the small details and emblems. I made a mold for the turn signals and then vacuum formed clear plastic over the mold. I then painted them with Tamiya clear orange. The headlights are from CTM. The interior tub is mounted inside the cab. I made some grab rails and mirrors out of bits of scrap that I had kicking around.
  6. I had to cheat a little for the dash. Rather than scratch building one, I decided to draw this one in CAD and 3D print it. Since these trucks had a "break-away" intake system, the air cleaner is open when the cab is raised. I decided to make an air filter using some photo-etched mesh that I had left over from a previous build. The chassis is getting closer to finished. I used resin 2-hole wheels that I had cast for the drive wheels, and some Keystone aluminum rims for the steer wheels. The tires are rubber pieces that I cast. Fuel tanks are now mounted and the exhaust is almost finished.
  7. It has been a while since I gave an update, so time for a photo dump. I used a Cat 3406 engine from a Revell snap kit, but made some modifications to make it an air-to-air charge cooled engine. Next up was the chassis. I used frame rails and rear suspension from an RoG Peterbilt. The frame had to be shortened and the front portion of the frame was scratch built. Basic plumbing was created using various sized styrene round stock. I modified the radiator from a Revell snap kit to be narrower, then scratch built a charge cooler to mount in front of the radiator. The air filter canister, battery box, fuel filter, and exhaust mount were scratch built. Fuel tank brackets (and eventually fuel tanks) were from Kootenay 3D model parts.
  8. Thanks everyone! I was able to get some paint on the cab. And a little pin striping.
  9. The cab is now in primer and the chassis has been started. I am using an RoG Peterbilt 359 frame and rear suspension that I have modified to work with the cabover.
  10. I roughed out a front nose for the cab. My initial attempt has the wheel arches too far forward in my opinion, so I shifted them backwards .060" after this photo was taken. Next was to finish off the grille, headlight buckets, and bumper. Finally, some rear cab fairings and roof top spoiler were roughed out. Lots of sanding ahead to get all of the seams smooth. Everything is just set in place for the photo mock-up.
  11. Thanks! That seems to be the common opinion of these. We always called this one "The Egg". The cab gets pieced together with a back wall, a roof, and then a front firewall. I made some sketches based on pictures that I found on the internet to try to scale the shape of the cab out.
  12. This is a project that I have always wanted to embark on, but never had the guts to try. I decided to finally take the plunge and attempt to build a Peterbilt 372. This seems to be a model of truck that people either love or hate (with more leaning towards the hate side of things). Personally, I have always thought it was a really cool design. My family owned this one back in the day, and I always liked the look of it. This project started in an unlikely manner. About a year ago, I was attempting to draw pinstripes in Microsoft Word, but with an inkjet printer I can only print things that will show up on light colors. Since this 372 was white, I gave it a shot. I was pretty happy with how they came out, and knowing that this file existed in my computer has been bugging me until I can put it to use. So I started by cutting out the basic sides of the cab. I use .020" thick styrene and layer it to get the features I want. I can make the bottom layer relatively solid, and make separate features such as doors that all glue onto the base layer.
  13. Thanks! You gave me an idea to make these look like old photographs that have been scanned into a computer.
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