19 replies to this topic

[m408]

I know that there are a bunch of clear coat materials and systems available, but would like some expert advice.

Your recommendations for lacquer vs. enamel? Brand preference?

[crispy]

I'm a fan of Tamiya lacquer clear coat.
I also like using Zero clear as well as Cobra Color clear. But for general use Tamiya.
The new Testors one shot stuff is nice as well.

Chris

Edited by crispy, 25 February 2008 - 03:54 AM.

[ismaelg]

The most important point on clear is to be compatible with the paint. The safest way to start is to go with the same paint line: For example, if you use Tamiya paint, use Tamiya Clear etc. Once comfortable then you can start expanding the boundaries. As a general rule, enamel clear tends to yellow over time while lacquer does not. Tamiya acrylic clear (in the jar, not the spray), is usually safe over enamels or lacquers.

Thanks,

[bobss396]

I like lacquer products in general. You really can't go wrong with Tamiya acrylic lacquer TS-13 clear. I've used this over Tamiya sprays, also Duplicolor and HOK lacquers. It is not as "hot" as Duplicolor and HOK and lays down very thin and smooth.

Bob

[Don B]

I use PPG Clear Urethane. It goes on thin and dries fast like lacquer but with a deeper shine. See Pics.

[djway3474]

NOTHING! Beats Urethane. NOTHING!
DJ

[mademan]

I use dupont premier chroma-clear, it aint cheap, but its da*m nice

[Ron L]

The beauty of urethane is removing the need for tedious sanding and polishing. Using the polishing systems from Novus, etc. will actually make urethane duller. If you want good results from any clearcoat, skip the overpriced "systems" and buy a sheet of 1500 or 2000 wet/dry sandpaper and a bottle of fine rubbing compound.

Urethane is where it's at, but when you want something quick even cheap Testors clear gets good results. Just hit it with 1500 wet/dry and 3M rubbing compound after:

[m408]

The beauty of urethane is removing the need for tedious sanding and polishing. Using the polishing systems from Novus, etc. will actually make urethane duller. If you want good results from any clearcoat, skip the overpriced "systems" and buy a sheet of 1500 or 2000 wet/dry sandpaper and a bottle of fine rubbing compound.

Urethane is where it's at, but when you want something quick even cheap Testors clear gets good results. Just hit it with 1500 wet/dry and 3M rubbing compound after:

Any rattle can urethanes available? Will it work over enamels and laquers?

[cruz]

I use Odds and Ends Clear, $1.96 a can, what you really want to do is master your polishing technique, everything else will fall into place......

[Ron L]

Any rattle can urethanes available? Will it work over enamels and laquers?

Urethane is a 2-part curing paint so no, there isn't a can version. It should work over anything - the stuff is rock-hard when cured.

[Ron L]

Heh, I don't think Testors enamel ever cures.

Urethane is as thick as you want to apply it. Out of the can it's very thick because it's made to resists shopping carts, bird poop, the sun, etc. but I thin it about 50% with lacquer thinner. I also scribe all my body lines before paint, regardless of what I'm painting it with. I imagine die casts can't be too easy to scribe, however.

I've pretty much given up on urethane though. Too stinky and messy. I'll use it again for a big super-detailed project but not for another typical shelf model.

[Ron L]

Eastwood now carries urethane in a rattle can. You have to activate it by puncturing an inner seal, and you get a pot life of 48 hours. For $17 a can you better have a bunch of bodies lined up for it.

[walt francis]

I use nothing other then Future floor wax and it will go over everything but the paint will have to be rubbed out

[Ron L]

I used Nasson brand mostly and it couldn't be thinned. I later tried HOK and even with their reducer you could only thin it 10%, much more and it wouldn't go on right. Doesn't matter now, I'm happy with Tamiya and Testors MML, as long as they're available I won't be going back to urethane.

David

The urethane I used is made by Transtar. Thinning it with $4/gallon hardware store lacquer thinner was a risky experiment but I'm surprised it worked. I actually like the Testors stuff. I've heard of it yellowing, heck it's already yellow in the bottle, but I haven't used it over white and don't plan to anyway.

[CarModDave]

Actually, there IS another clear urethane in a spray can, made by ALsa Corp, called "SpeedClear" in their "Killer Cans" lineup.
Check out the website as there's a ton of other sprays available, everything from colors to CHROME!

I haven't used it, and at $40 a can I'd have to agree with the statement made about having a BUNCH of bodies/parts lined up to clear coat because one the components are mixed, I am sure there is a certain "life" to the mixture. But here's the info on the site:

http://www.alsacorp..../speedclear.htm

http://www.alsacorp....ed_prodinfo.htm


They also have a "single component" clear coat is spray cans called "Lightning Clear".

Edited by CarModDave, 09 March 2008 - 11:35 AM.

[58 Impala]

Someone on this forum awhile back recommended UPOL clear#1 it comes in a 16oz. can. It's an acrylic lacquer, it has a nice spray pattern from a can. It's thin and lays down nice with wet coats. It costs about $15-$17 a can at an automotive paint supplier.

[mr68gts]

So if you get junk in your urethane clear, is it a b*tch to get clean and polished to high shine again???? I do all my painting on my open porch. (don't laugh, my best paint jobs have come off the porch!)
Paul