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Clear Coat


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#1 m408

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 08:53 PM

I know that there are a bunch of clear coat materials and systems available, but would like some expert advice.

Your recommendations for lacquer vs. enamel? Brand preference?

#2 crispy

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 03:53 AM

I'm a fan of Tamiya lacquer clear coat.
I also like using Zero clear as well as Cobra Color clear. But for general use Tamiya.
The new Testors one shot stuff is nice as well.

Chris

Edited by crispy, 25 February 2008 - 03:54 AM.


#3 ismaelg

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 05:38 AM

The most important point on clear is to be compatible with the paint. The safest way to start is to go with the same paint line: For example, if you use Tamiya paint, use Tamiya Clear etc. Once comfortable then you can start expanding the boundaries. As a general rule, enamel clear tends to yellow over time while lacquer does not. Tamiya acrylic clear (in the jar, not the spray), is usually safe over enamels or lacquers.

Thanks,

#4 bobss396

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 06:30 AM

I like lacquer products in general. You really can't go wrong with Tamiya acrylic lacquer TS-13 clear. I've used this over Tamiya sprays, also Duplicolor and HOK lacquers. It is not as "hot" as Duplicolor and HOK and lays down very thin and smooth.

Bob

#5 Don B

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 06:23 PM

I use PPG Clear Urethane. It goes on thin and dries fast like lacquer but with a deeper shine. See Pics.





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#6 djway3474

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 08:25 PM

NOTHING! Beats Urethane. NOTHING!
DJ

#7 mademan

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Posted 26 February 2008 - 08:21 PM

I use dupont premier chroma-clear, it aint cheap, but its da*m nice

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#8 Ron L

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 07:11 AM

The beauty of urethane is removing the need for tedious sanding and polishing. Using the polishing systems from Novus, etc. will actually make urethane duller. If you want good results from any clearcoat, skip the overpriced "systems" and buy a sheet of 1500 or 2000 wet/dry sandpaper and a bottle of fine rubbing compound.

Urethane is where it's at, but when you want something quick even cheap Testors clear gets good results. Just hit it with 1500 wet/dry and 3M rubbing compound after:
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#9 m408

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:43 AM

The beauty of urethane is removing the need for tedious sanding and polishing. Using the polishing systems from Novus, etc. will actually make urethane duller. If you want good results from any clearcoat, skip the overpriced "systems" and buy a sheet of 1500 or 2000 wet/dry sandpaper and a bottle of fine rubbing compound.

Urethane is where it's at, but when you want something quick even cheap Testors clear gets good results. Just hit it with 1500 wet/dry and 3M rubbing compound after:
Posted Image

Any rattle can urethanes available? Will it work over enamels and laquers?

#10 cruz

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 10:50 AM

I use Odds and Ends Clear, $1.96 a can, what you really want to do is master your polishing technique, everything else will fall into place......
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#11 Ron L

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 10:34 AM

Any rattle can urethanes available? Will it work over enamels and laquers?


Urethane is a 2-part curing paint so no, there isn't a can version. It should work over anything - the stuff is rock-hard when cured.

#12 Guest_Davkin_*

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 01:21 PM

It should work over anything - the stuff is rock-hard when cured.


It cracked Testors MM enamel on me so I wouldn't say it works over everything. I had let that enamel cure for over a week too, maybe you have to wait a month with Testors. I have used urethane over Rustoleum with no problems though.

My only gripe with urethane is that it's very thick, it tends to bury details and make panel edges very thick. I've used the stuff on well over a hundred modified diecasts and a couple dozen plastic models and used a couple different brands of urethane. I now use use either Tamiya TS clear or Testors MML and am much happier with the thickness and with just a little more work, (polishing) the shine is on par with urethane.

David

#13 Ron L

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 02:34 PM

Heh, I don't think Testors enamel ever cures.

Urethane is as thick as you want to apply it. Out of the can it's very thick because it's made to resists shopping carts, bird poop, the sun, etc. but I thin it about 50% with lacquer thinner. I also scribe all my body lines before paint, regardless of what I'm painting it with. I imagine die casts can't be too easy to scribe, however.

I've pretty much given up on urethane though. Too stinky and messy. I'll use it again for a big super-detailed project but not for another typical shelf model.

#14 Ron L

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Posted 07 March 2008 - 03:24 PM

Eastwood now carries urethane in a rattle can. You have to activate it by puncturing an inner seal, and you get a pot life of 48 hours. For $17 a can you better have a bunch of bodies lined up for it.

#15 walt francis

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Posted 08 March 2008 - 06:53 AM

I use nothing other then Future floor wax and it will go over everything but the paint will have to be rubbed out
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#16 Guest_Davkin_*

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Posted 08 March 2008 - 03:04 PM

How long do you wait to rub out Future, and what do you use to do it? I've tried Future several times but have never been able to acheive a smooth shine with it, I always have a bit of texture I just can't seem to get rid of.

Urethane is as thick as you want to apply it. Out of the can


I used Nasson brand mostly and it couldn't be thinned. I later tried HOK and even with their reducer you could only thin it 10%, much more and it wouldn't go on right. Doesn't matter now, I'm happy with Tamiya and Testors MML, as long as they're available I won't be going back to urethane.

David

#17 Ron L

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 10:50 AM

I used Nasson brand mostly and it couldn't be thinned. I later tried HOK and even with their reducer you could only thin it 10%, much more and it wouldn't go on right. Doesn't matter now, I'm happy with Tamiya and Testors MML, as long as they're available I won't be going back to urethane.

David

The urethane I used is made by Transtar. Thinning it with $4/gallon hardware store lacquer thinner was a risky experiment but I'm surprised it worked. I actually like the Testors stuff. I've heard of it yellowing, heck it's already yellow in the bottle, but I haven't used it over white and don't plan to anyway.

#18 CarModDave

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 11:25 AM

Actually, there IS another clear urethane in a spray can, made by ALsa Corp, called "SpeedClear" in their "Killer Cans" lineup.
Check out the website as there's a ton of other sprays available, everything from colors to CHROME!

I haven't used it, and at $40 a can I'd have to agree with the statement made about having a BUNCH of bodies/parts lined up to clear coat because one the components are mixed, I am sure there is a certain "life" to the mixture. But here's the info on the site:

http://www.alsacorp..../speedclear.htm

http://www.alsacorp....ed_prodinfo.htm


They also have a "single component" clear coat is spray cans called "Lightning Clear".

Edited by CarModDave, 09 March 2008 - 11:35 AM.


#19 58 Impala

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 02:46 PM

Someone on this forum awhile back recommended UPOL clear#1 it comes in a 16oz. can. It's an acrylic lacquer, it has a nice spray pattern from a can. It's thin and lays down nice with wet coats. It costs about $15-$17 a can at an automotive paint supplier.

#20 mr68gts

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 02:52 PM

So if you get junk in your urethane clear, is it a b*tch to get clean and polished to high shine again???? I do all my painting on my open porch. (don't laugh, my best paint jobs have come off the porch!)
Paul