15 replies to this topic

[coopdad]

Guys,

After about 6 months of trying to find tires for one of my models, I have given up and decided to make them myself. I have read extensively many posts on numerous websites and how-tos about resin casting so I understand the overall concept (but not yet tried it.)

My question is: should I try to cast the tire as a complete unit or in two halfs that I glue together after? Reason I ask is the tires will have a pretty aggressive tread pattern (BFGoodrich Mud Terrains) so the possibility of not being able to get out all the bubbles may be a problem.

Thanks for all your suggestions,

John

[mikemodeler]

I have never casted a tire but I would say that you might have to experiment on this one. Try molding up a one piece mold and try casting the tire. I understand the bubble aspect so a two piece might be a solution to that. My only fear with a two piece is matching up the tread pattern. I remember some of the old two piece kit tires and how they didn't always match up and needed some work to look right.


Mike

[Ariel]

You are better casting the tire in one piece. You may want to get a pressure pot to get all of the air bubbles out Harbor Freight has them for 39.99. As far as making a master in Aluminum it won't be cost effective unless you know someone to make it for free. One master could run you as high as 200.00 I have looked into those possibilities. Remember humity and resin don't get along.

[coopdad]

I have heard that Alumilite's Casting kit is very good for a first-timer like myself. Anyone have a good source with a GREAT price?
John

[skysoldier46]

I have cast resin tires and what I did since the tire will sit on one surface was to make a small evergreen square block and then glue it to the tire. Placed that in a box and poured my Aluminite in. let it cure and pulled the tire out with no problem, a little clean up and was good to go.

[Steven Zimmerman]

At hobby Lobby, you can get the Alumalite casting kit for around 80 bucks; with a 40% off coupon ( available on line) that brings it down to about48 bucks. You can also buy their 'Amazing resin,' for about 15 bucks, which is a white resin with fewer air bubbles than their regular resin. They have 2 differant molding compounds at Hobby Lobby; the 'pink' stuff does not hold up as well (compared to their other compound), but is easier to work with.Being more flesible, cured items pop out more easily.... I know there are better products out there, but i've been using this 'Amazing Resin' for about a year now, and have probably produced 2000 resin castings with it, and am quite happy.... Only caveat; heat the molds up in a micro wave for 30 - 40 seconds immediately before pouring ( this is covered in their instructions) if you are pouring small items, like wheels. It self generates heat to cure completely and small items don't creat enough heat to 'kick' ......'Z'

[Gramps2u]

I have been using the 600 series resin from micro mark. 7 minute pot life, sets in about an hour pours clear & allows air to escape in ample time and sets in a white color. I used their 300 series resin, much too fast for working out air it has a 3 minute pot life to "hot". Micro mark sells a tire molding rubber that is compatible to their RTV rubber molding products. I haven't tried the tire molding rubber but looking forward to using it . If & when I do I will post results if no one else does . I make a two part mold for tires so they come out in one piece. Most of all, Don't forget the parting agent! That's my current procedure.

[Gramps2u]

You may want to get a pressure pot to get all of the air bubbles out Harbor Freight has them for 39.99.

Thanks for the tip! Gonna have to check this out! Thanks !

[1320wayne]

Here is what I am currently doing. A two part polyurethane mold that was machined to achieve the right look for a racing slick with proper sidewall appearrance. It has a center buck to create a hollow tire. It is designed to be used with any of the flexible rubber resins so that when the cast is cured and you pull the mold apart you can stretch the tire away from the center part of the mold. Haven't quite got that part of the process to work out consistently yet. Still trying different compounds so that if/when I get a good casting the hollow tire won't collapse under the weight of the model.

Until then I can still use the mold to pour traditional resins. The only catch is that when the casting is cured I have to cut the cast down the middle to get the center part of the mold out of the casting. Then glue the two halves back together and sand/smooth and paint. I am still playing with this process and trying to get a better handle on it. And this is merely a rather simple racing slick, with minimal detail. I can only imagine what a treaded tire would require for work.

[bnl]

resin tires are best casted by cuting the tire in half then gluing them togrther once casted.
casting as 1 piece will usually cause an air pocket on the back side of the tire leaving a hole

[Longbox55]

Ma's Resin has BF Goodrich Mud Terrains
http://public.fotki....es/1001115.html

[skysoldier46]

I wrote on MA's Foki site last month a question and still no answer. is that the only way to contact him anmd is it even guaranteed he'll contact back?

[cnaind]

PM sent Jim.

[skysoldier46]

PM sent Jim.

Thanks Alan, good luck with your project, looks intense and time consuming.

[Art Laski]

At hobby Lobby, you can get the Alumalite casting kit for around 80 bucks; with a 40% off coupon ( available on line) that brings it down to about48 bucks. You can also buy their 'Amazing resin,' for about 15 bucks, which is a white resin with fewer air bubbles than their regular resin. They have 2 differant molding compounds at Hobby Lobby; the 'pink' stuff does not hold up as well (compared to their other compound), but is easier to work with.Being more flesible, cured items pop out more easily.... I know there are better products out there, but i've been using this 'Amazing Resin' for about a year now, and have probably produced 2000 resin castings with it, and am quite happy.... Only caveat; heat the molds up in a micro wave for 30 - 40 seconds immediately before pouring ( this is covered in their instructions) if you are pouring small items, like wheels. It self generates heat to cure completely and small items don't creat enough heat to 'kick' ......'Z'

Steve,

thanks for recommending Amazing Casting Resin. I've tried Alumalite and Micro Mark and had struggles with air bubbles with both, especially since I do not have a pressure pot. But the Amazing Casting Resin I picked up the other day at your recommendation works excellent! I can now finish this tire project I've been working on. It's great stuff.

-Art

[fractalign]

The easiest way is vertical casting the tyre.

the first thing you need to do is fill the centre where the rim would normally go in.

Use styrene about the same thickness as a coin, if the tyre you are casting is a hollow type you will need to fill this cavity too !

Once the centre is filled glue the tyre to a styrene base and box in the sides to hold the silastic.

One the silastic has set pull the boxing off, pull the base off and you have your mould.

To remove the tyre from the mould make a fine incision either side of where it was glued, be sure to make it parallel to the flow of the tread, not across it, this will insure there is the minimum flash when casting.