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Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers


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#141 ScaleDale

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 05:42 AM

I just bought this one a few days ago. Cheap and simple, been using it every day. It works great! I only wish I had bought one sooner!

 

http://www.amazon.co...g/dp/B000G20TCQ

 

It has 5 stackable trays. If you need more room between trays you can take one or two of the trays and cut out the mesh part, leaving just the outer ring that will now act as a spacer between the other trays.

 

I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint and I don't like it because it has no temperature control or even an on/off switch. It doesn't even have a power indicator light. I had to plug it into a power strip with one to know if it was on or not. Did I say I liker it? I do.

 

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#142 Harry P.

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 06:14 AM

 

I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint and I don't like it because it has no temperature control or even an on/off switch. It doesn't even have a power indicator light. I had to plug it into a power strip with one to know if it was on or not. Did I say I liker it? I do.

 

Dale

 

Like I said... cheap and simple! And it works great. What's not to like?  :D



#143 Danno

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 06:33 AM

Ronco!  As seen on TV!

 

And, it slices, dices, rices, and surprises!



#144 zenrat

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 01:39 AM

 

I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint ...

 

Dale

 

How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?



#145 vypurr59

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 05:35 AM

Don't forget to check the Salvation Army, thrift stores and second hand shops. I purchased several dehydrators from these type stores.  I have a ronco, that I paid $3 for and an american harvest with temp control and fan, I just cut some of the trays out, leaving the outer ring for the height. This American Harvest cost me $8.



#146 ScaleDale

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 05:45 AM

 

How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?

 

They go from the garage where my paint booth is to my shop right after I spray the last part if it's a body. If its motor parts or whatever, I clean my airbrush first. That takes about five minutes. Lately, I've been using decanted Tamiya and I find that it's about tack free by the time I walk the 20 feet from the garage to the shop. It's all indoors, by the way.

 

The one thing I don't like about the Ronco is that it has no switch of any kind, not even a power switch. I have to unplug it to turn it off. I fixed that yesterday with a cheap switched power strip.

 

Dale



#147 vypurr59

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 07:21 AM

 

How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?

I actually have my dehydrator running and right after spraying I place the parts right into it



#148 Harry P.

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 08:41 AM

I actually have my dehydrator running and right after spraying I place the parts right into it

 

Same here.



#149 Pete J.

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 12:08 PM

I was about 12-13 years old when I read in the other mag about these. My folks showed up with a Ronco from Sams Club, same model Harbor Freight carries. The ol gal is now on it's 20th year with me. Every car you see me post all have been in there. Both resin and plastic, new and old. Key is simple. You are not baking a car body but just warming the air around it. Most bodies sit on the third rack and the top vents open. I have always uses Testors paints, no issues with them ever.

I've got to agree!  You are making this way to complicated.  I've had a basic Ronco for close to 20 years now.  I cut up and glued the trays to suit me over the years and it works great.  No thermostats, on/off switches, blowers, just a basic, basic machine.  I have never melted anything in it or ever had any issues.  I have a couple of plugs for the top vents to increase the temperature if it is especially cold in the garage.  Other than that, it sits on my bench all the time, plugged in and running.  I use it to heat my rattle can paint also. 

 

  Don't get wrapped around the axle with this.  Keep it simple and you will be fine.  It is model building, not gourmet cooking.



#150 zenrat

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 06:50 PM

Thanks for the answers folks.

It just struck me that if the paint wasn't tacky when the parts went into the dehydrator then dust wouldn't be an issue.

I tend to leave painted parts until I can move then without fear of marking the fresh paint as I find getting them off the paint stand and into the dehydrator impossible without some part of my body or clothing touching tacky paint.



#151 Modelbuilder Mark

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 02:29 PM

depending on how much effort you are willing to put into your paint job, there are things you can do to keep the dust down that most people might not use.

 

Turn the spraybooth on a while before painting, and leave the room for a while giving it a chance to sort of pull some of the loose dust in the air out.

 

If you are so inclined, take a spray bottle, put about 1/2 inch of Downey or similar laundry softener and the rest water, then spray the floor. This will serve to also knock more dust out of the air, will keep static out of the rug or carpet if you have a carpeted work area, and will also serve to dampen the floor to keep dust from "kicknig up" into the air as you move around the room. Same principle as the 1:1 guys who hose down the shop floor before painting.

 

make sure to keep the sides of the paint booth etc wiped down as well, as loose debris will fall from there as well from time to time.



#152 dantewallace

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 02:43 AM

Bought mine at Harbor Freight for $15.00. Best money I've ever spent. I have put tons of bodies and parts in it from almost every major model brand and had ZERO problems. I did add a $2.00 power switch. As long as youre using it to dry model parts and bodies, theres no need for a temp control.

Does the HF dehydrator that you have do adjustable temps?



#153 dantewallace

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 02:45 AM

I completely forgot to ask. What is the typical drying time for lacquer based clears using one of these machines? Everyone has mentioned drying time for paints but not clear.

 

Thanks



#154 Custom Mike

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 04:04 AM

Does the HF dehydrator that you have do adjustable temps?

 

Dante, I've got an older one from HF (Almost 10 years old), and it has no temp control or fan, just vents in the lid. The temperature stays between 100-105F, and the only thing I've ever warped was an old body I left in for 24 hours...my mistake. Clears dry at the same rate as colors, it just depends on the type of clear used, lacquer, enamel, etc.

 

Here's a shot of my old warhorse in use last night with a nail polish paint job....it took about an hour to get the paint cured!

 

1969Barracuda0139-vi.jpg



#155 retired & glad

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 03:12 AM

This is a couple of photos of the dehydrator I made from one a friend gave me. It only had 2 trays and had no height to it. I took some lexan and made it high enough to hold a lot of parts. I had to seperate the fan and heat so I could adjust the heat. I ran another cord and seperated the fan and heat circuit. I took a receptacle and took the tab off the hot side to seperate the two plug ins. Took a dimmer and ran it to one plug and left the fan hot all the time. I ran the fan through the front switch on the unit so I could just use air and use the dimmer switch to control the heat.

Not very pretty but it works great.

 

Richard

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#156 LocalCountry

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 10:57 AM

What about the fumes? where do yall keep the dehydrater while using it?



#157 935k3

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 07:05 PM


I use a Nesco American Harvest dehydrator and I have to tell ya, it's one of the best investments I've made in my hobby so far. Set it to 105 degrees and let it run over night, and my paint is ready to be rubbed out. Takes the 'sit down and wait ' factor right out of the painting-finishing part of the hobby! I recommend one of these to anyone who builds.

I will second that!



#158 mrknowetall

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Posted 03 March 2014 - 11:16 AM

I will second that!

 

A third from me! 



#159 Faust

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 02:32 AM

Man, these things look like the answer to my prayers. I think.

I use acrylics (either Model Master or homemade - Future plus pigment) as my paint. I then use Future as a gloss coat. I have found that for a thick coat of Future to be dry, you're looking at at least 2-3 weeks, sometimes. This is lame. 

 

Has anyone here used these dehydrators on Futured car bodies? Did it work? I know Future can get VERY hot; I dry stuff between two lamps, and sometimes, the part is so hot I can't touch it. Yes, I know that's likely too hot, but nothing has warped yet. Even with this technique, though, I'm waiting a week or so of 16-hour drying days. Future seems to be wet below the surface for quite some time...

 

Anyway, if anyone's got any notes for this, let me know!

 

Thanks!

 

Oh, Happy Easter to those who celebrate it!



#160 MrObsessive

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 02:51 AM

Adam, I've put models in the dehydrator that were cleared in Future. One of them is pictured below.............

 

P4043803-vi.jpg

P4043805-vi.jpg

P4043807-vi.jpg

 

I built this back in 1993-94, long before the Mach 5 kit was available. One caveat is you can't put the Future in right away, as it can tend to yellow somewhat in areas where it has "pooled". I'd wait maybe an hour to let it set up, then put it in the dehydrator. As you can see, the model's a little worse for wear as the decals are starting to split, and the build itself is a little crude compared to how I would do it today. ;)

 

Hope this helps!