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Removing Chrome Plating


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#81 George

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:01 PM

I asked this question once and one of the replies I got was Westley's Bleche-Wite. I happened to have some so I've tried it twice. Bare plastic in like a half-hour. May be beginner's luck, worked for me tho.




I use this also,but I am going to give the Dawn Power Disolver a try and also try the Scalecoat Paint Remover which I primarily use for stripping paint,which by the way does a heck of a job doing that.

#82 kenlwest

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 02:31 AM

I recently bought the MPC 1/20 Indy Turbine Car on EBAY (Now I am broke), and I wanted to strip the obnoxious chrome off the parts, so I was reading through this thread for tips.

But I discovered yet another method on my own and thought I would share it with you.

TSP Substitute.

You can buy it at any hardware store. Just make sure that if you get the regular TSP, that you try it on a piece of sprue first before dunking the good parts.

Worked in 30 minutes. (No smell either)

Ken

#83 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 01:58 PM

Mr. Cole, I made this one for you, and I hope it helps. Remember that there are many ways of skinning a cat, or so the saying goes.



#84 highway

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 02:42 PM

Mr. Cole, I made this one for you, and I hope it helps. Remember that there are many ways of skinning a cat, or so the saying goes.

I'm sorry, but I still say the best is the Dawn Power Dissolver, you don't need Haz-Mat protection to use it!

NO FUMES!!

NO GLOVES NEEDED!!

SAFE FOR THE FAMILY!!

#85 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 02:51 PM

That's another good way, although I have not had it remove the chrome as fast. But if you let it sit overnight, it will do the work.

One thing you learn on this forum is that there's always lots of different ways of getting the results you are looking for.

#86 evilone

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 03:19 PM

Mr. Cole, I made this one for you, and I hope it helps. Remember that there are many ways of skinning a cat, or so the saying goes.




Aww come on doc you missed the best steps.
Place a towel over your head and the bowl and breath deeply lol.
JK thats a good tip but i still like my dot 3 and my windex lol

#87 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 03:27 PM

Maybe what we need to do in the Lab-RAT-ory is a Comparo Experiment of all the different methods and solutions, and really take notes, draw up a pros and cons list.

I like that . . .

#88 highway

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 03:30 PM

Maybe what we need to do in the Lab-RAT-ory is a Comparo Experiment of all the different methods and solutions, and really take notes, draw up a pros and cons list.

I like that . . .

Well, the pic I posted earlier in the thread with the Power Dissovler bottle in it was in about 3-4 hours, and completely removed both the chrome and the lacquer undercoat, with just a slight cleanup with an old toothbrush required.

The other parts were "spray and forgot", and required only a water washup.

#89 scalenut

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 05:03 PM

I have had good luck with plain bleach so far ,, I recently received a large parts lot of wheels and tires.
most of the wheels were pretty scratchy grimed and dirty.They were from several types and years of kits.

After I disassembled all the wheels I was able to fill a large mason jar full, I poured in plain bleach.And capped it
most of the wheels almost instantly stripped , some were a little more stubborn, I just let them sit while I had dinner
everything was completely clean by the time I finshed
I drained the bleach back into the bottle and rinsed out the wheels.

with a little caution it's a very safe( I do it in the kitchen sink) and not very smelly ( I cap the jar) means of doing it. I would imagine oven cleaners and stronger messy things would work quicker on some of the more stubborn chromes
.. I do notice that on some chrome parts the underlying gloss coat does remain when using bleach ,, but having a nice glossy surface can be a benefit if respraying with something like a gloss black followed by alclad. less polishing

I always amazed by how many things I never thought of will strip chrome ,, from what I understand it's not actually chrome,it's vaporised aluminum, much the same as the reflective surface of CD's

#90 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 05:13 PM

Interesting, which is also the reason why Alclad comes pretty close to it. :rolleyes:

#91 Casey

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:09 PM

I'm sorry, but I still say the best is the Dawn Power Dissolver, you don't need Haz-Mat protection to use it!

NO FUMES!!

NO GLOVES NEEDED!!

SAFE FOR THE FAMILY!!


Be aware that the active ingredient in DPD is lye (Sodium Hydroxide- NaOH), the same as in Drano, Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (in the yellow can), and many others.

#92 charlie8575

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 05:15 AM

I use bleach in an all-plastic jar- jar and lid, too. The reason I do this is that chlorine fumes will corrode any metal they come in contact with. The plastic won't have this problem.

I've had bleach work in as short as ten minute to a couple of hours. I don't mind the lacquer undercoat, it acts as a primer, so I can paint directly on it.

Charlie Larkin

#93 brad4321

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 11:12 AM

I have usually never had a problem stripping chrome. I use some brand of oven cleaner and it takes it right off. But with the last two Revell kits, I'm left with a yellowish residue which is hard to remove. After using some alcohal and soaking the parts in warm soapy water it appeared gone. When I sprayed the parts with Testors Metallizer, a lot of cracking appeared when the paint dried. And this has happened multiple times.

Help!


Thanks!

#94 imatt88

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 12:18 PM

Hmmm, I also use Easy Off, but I've also started using Purple Power to strip chrome.

That might help take off the pesky undercoat some companies use :)

Cheers, Ian

#95 TurboKitty

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 12:27 PM

soak them in bleach for an hour, then scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse clean.

#96 kittesvsr71

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 12:51 PM

Hi all, its been a while since I posted on here, my hd crashed and long story short, I finally got back on here. I screwed up my black and gold paintjob on my 1982 trans am (both colors I used Testors Spray Can Enamels), and I got the Dawn Power Dissolver yesterday at Wal Mart. But my question is this - do I need to just spray the Dawn Power Dissolver on the car body all over and let it set, or do I need to put the car body into a container and remove the spray attachment and just pour it all over the car letting it soak and possibly submerge the whole car?

All help is Greatly Appreciated
Thanks
Jeff

Edited by kittesvsr71, 01 November 2011 - 12:53 PM.


#97 Casey

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 06:50 AM

I've tired Easy-Off and 91% isopropyl alcohol, and the chrome plating undercoat is not coming off. Dave Z, if you read this, does Dawn Power Dissolver work for this?

The wheels in question are from AMT's prefinished Phantom Vickie kit.

#98 GeeBee

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 07:03 AM

I had the same problem with the '32 Chrysler I'm building at the moment, for the first time, I tried the household bleach to remove the chrome, it did this but left behind the lacquer base that the chrome adhere's to, so it went back into the Pyrex dish and left to soak in a coat of Fairy Power spray, which over there, is branded as Dawn Power Dissolver.

#99 Foxer

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 07:07 AM

I do use Dawn Power Dissolver to remove the undercoat but it still takes time .. matter of days sometimes.

#100 Casey

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 07:39 AM

Thanks. DPD it will be.