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#21 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 03:45 AM

That's it!, you haven't deal with them. I had twice with horrible experience, won't do again.
Simón P. Rivera Torres


Thanks for sharing that, and sorry it didn't work out :) .
I had heard similar stories, over the years, that's why the 'Water-based chrome sysyem" I invested in.

Thanks again for the WARNING - dave B)

#22 Chas SCR

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 05:16 AM

Dave, I'm going to guess at the 2007 GSL that was your chrome test car? sorry if I am not right on this, But at the same time it made me go out and fine some thing better then what was out there for chroming model parts. I have use Chrome Tech USA and Bob is very good at what he does and I still will use him if I have a lot of stuff to do so I do not have to tree every thing up. But for just little parts and parts that I need done ASAP I found the best bang for the buck is by far ALSA Chrome FX for $160 to get started this stuff will last a long time and you can also clear coat over it with Urethane Clear and it does not lose its shine like all the other chrome paint.

You pick up 8oz of ALSA Chrome FX for just a little over $80, then you have a paint shop mix you up a qurt of 1950 Ply Black This is for the base and then a qurt of your favorit urethane clear (Mine is Du Pont Hot Hues Clear $49 with activator) Out that door. The qt of Black Paint should only run you $15.

You can see three of my cars at the GSL XXII that was done all using the ALSA Chrome FX... and one that has Chrome Tech USA and you would never know the differents in it.

MR BIG I like your chrome but if its like any thing in the pic its getting close to being back to the point of whats in the kit and not looking like real chrome.

#23 FujimiLover

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 06:23 AM

There's also Bare-Metal Foil's chrome foil but it's not suitable for complex parts where you want the "liquid chrome" to cover everything. The bare-metal foil is more suited for window trim, door moldings, door handles, emblems, et'c.

#24 simonr

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 11:42 AM

What's the ''Water-based chrome sysyem" you invested in?


Simón P. Rivera Torres




Thanks for sharing that, and sorry it didn't work out :D .
I had heard similar stories, over the years, that's why the 'Water-based chrome sysyem" I invested in.

Thanks again for the WARNING - dave ;)



#25 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 06:38 PM

I need help:I stripped the chrome from a set of wheels and applied a coat of black enamel then clear coated them.My question is could I brush paint the Alclad around the ring of the rim so I can leave the spokes black or is Aclad to thin leaving it impossible to brush on without getting any on the spokes.


Myself and several others here have had good luck, brushing the Alclad on in small area's. For me, I always experiment on a scrap piece to figure out what i can do, and what i can't.
Practice makes perfect ( Or close to it :lol: ).

#26 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 02:58 AM

What's the ''Water-based chrome sysyem" you invested in?
Simón P. Rivera Torres


Hi Simon :lol:
It's a commercial system, that when you're done costs several thousands of $$$$ to set up, but gives beautiful results, and I get to choose the quality, not depend on someone else.
I also get to have all the fun of doing it myself.
Just a personality quirk :lol: B) .

#27 coopdad

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 03:59 AM

Excuse my ignorance but I have a question about Alclad. Is it a "paint" or something else? I keep getting hearing problems, special handling, coatings, etc. when people talk about it implying to me that it is something different.

Most of what I build is not shiny so I have never asked before but this would be the perfect time to get educated.
John

#28 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 05:06 AM

I found this Simon while snooping around on my fotki sites.This was at the '07 GSL-XXI,I thought you might want to see what it looks like.
Posted Image

And the little write up Dave did.
Posted Image


Hey, you found it ;) .

That's the sample I sprayed up, and took to the GSL, and displayed it there.
Wayne Stevens, who is one of the member's here, took the picture's, and posted them. Wayne and I are really good friend's, so after the show, I gave it to him as a gift, as he had left our SABA Club in Portland, and moved to Florida, so he and his wife could care for his wife's ailing mom. Wayne and Jill are VERY COOL PEOPLE.

Thanks for posting it - Dave :rolleyes:

#29 oldman23

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:54 PM

there are none. i live in merritt island florida, i have comb entire brevard county for hobbies shops and there are none! i live in the suckiest part of the state or country for that matter.

Squadron.com carries the whole Alclad Line of paints.
SQUADRON.COM

#30 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 03:56 PM

Hey Donny :P .
This is a thread I did some time ago. I hope this may help you in the future - dave :D

#31 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 05:57 AM

HERE YA GO BEN :lol:
Whenever I see this Alclad topic come up,I like to post this thread, hoping it'll help guys out.

Hope it helps ya - dave :lol: .

#32 Smart-Resins

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 01:58 AM

Two quick questions. Can you use it over Future and can you use future over it. I am thinking should be no probklem? However I do my futurem 3 parts future to one part mean green and it grabs a terrific shine! Thinking this would help give a deap tone tot eh alclad chrome, then the future over it would make it very bright and shiny? Thanks. Jody

#33 rssschris

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 06:09 AM

I don`t know. since I don`t yet have an airbrush, I`d like to see the results before I invest. Would anybody be willing to Alclad - say a set of wheels - for me ? I could send a set & pay a small fee.
Chris

#34 Rider

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 08:33 AM

I've never had any real good luck with Alclad I tried a product called Spaz Stix, for me it has never let me down. This stuff is fantastic, can be cleared and taped, I never was able to do that with Alclad with out affecting the finish. It comes in a 1oz jar or a rattle can and it about 2/3 the cost of Alclad.

Dave your product looks awesome, sounds like to still have some refinning issue to handle though. Spaz Stix resaults are very similar to your product, although I much rather use yours seeing as it is water based. Any plans on bring it to market?

#35 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 05:27 PM

Two quick questions. Can you use it over Future and can you use future over it. I am thinking should be no probklem? However I do my futurem 3 parts future to one part mean green and it grabs a terrific shine! Thinking this would help give a deap tone tot eh alclad chrome, then the future over it would make it very bright and shiny? Thanks. Jody


Hey Jody :(
I've never had any real good luck spraying anything over Alclad, including Future.
Everything tones it down.

I've got models 7-8 years old with Alclad on them, and just as shiny and nice as the day I sprayed it.

Temperature, technique and timing make all the difference.
Mine doesn't wear off with minor handling, and there's no clear coat of any kind.

Edited by Treehugger Dave, 02 December 2009 - 05:27 PM.


#36 Smart-Resins

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Posted 03 December 2009 - 02:50 AM

Well, I have a bottle left here, but hesitant to use it again as when I used alclad on a t bucket I was building, when I went to put the suspension on it, the Alclad wore off. Three times I have resprayed it only for the same thing to happen. Itg discouraged me soo much, then I boxed the model and all it needs is the suspension finished!! LOL. Jody

#37 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 03 December 2009 - 06:09 AM

Well, I have a bottle left here, but hesitant to use it again as when I used alclad on a t bucket I was building, when I went to put the suspension on it, the Alclad wore off. Three times I have resprayed it only for the same thing to happen. Itg discouraged me soo much, then I boxed the model and all it needs is the suspension finished!! LOL. Jody


Hey Jody ;)
Try spraying your black, wait an hour, then shoot your Alclad.
The Alclad needs To "BITE" into the paint before it's totally dry, so it won't wear off as easily when you can handle it.

Also, what guy's don't take seriously enough, is that to get the optimum results, at least for me, they are certain steps that need to be followed.

(1) Spray a like-brand clear over your black. This gives depth for the chrome to 'DAZZLE" <_< .
"LIGHT REFRACTION" plays a huge role in the finished appearance of Alclad type finishes (There are others).
A diamond sparkles because it had depth and clarity - same with Alclad when you use clear, and it's GLOSSY.

Same with candies and metal-flakes. I always clear over the candy base color of silver or gold, or the flake, before I shoot the color - GIVES WAY MORE DAZZLE ;) . Allows the light to bounce around in the clear before it reflects back to your eye.

(2)
Alclad LOVES WARMTH ;)
I shoot mine at 80 degrees and it can be handled really well in an hour. Brush the fine particles off with a fine make-up brush for a much nicer finished appearance.
If you can't shoot yours at that temp, try using a food dehydrator if you have one, or wait a minimum of a week to dry before handling - IT MUST BE DRY, AND IT NEEDS THAT INITIAL BITE not to wear off easily - GOTTA HAVE BOTH ;) .

#38 E St. Kruiser50

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Posted 31 December 2009 - 05:55 AM

Here you go Ben Posted Image .
If you have the time, read all the posts, as there is a wealth of info from other's who posted as well.

Best of luck - IT JUST TAKES PRACTICE Posted Image .