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2005 Mustang Buildup Update! Interior pics! 12/09/06


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#21 Tom Kren

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Posted 14 November 2006 - 02:02 PM

Nice job Bill love the colr and wheels

#22 Len Woodruff

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 01:21 PM

Okay, today since it was so rainy and crappy outside.........I decided to bite the bullet and paint on the stripes. Now mind you, I haven't done this in ten years since I built a '65 Shelby GT-350R!

I was never good at measuring off this and marking off that..........so I eyeball engineered where the stripes would go and went from there.

The yellowish tape you see is Tamiya tape which is absolutely FANTASTIC! I've used it before for masking off two tones and it never has caused me any trouble ever! 8)

The clear film you see is another good thing to have which is hard to find called "Parafilm". Laboratories use it to seal beakers............and it is very difficult to find unless you get it from Micromark.com

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The center "spine" of the stripe was cut using a metal straight edge and an exacto blade.

I used Krylon White to give the brightest stripes possible. One nice thing about Krylon White is that it will NOT yellow over time.......and the pigments are tight enough to cover even black paint! 8)

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I let the body sit in the dehydrator for about an hour......then peeled off the masking. I don't like masking to stay on but so long for fear of "imprinting" itself in the paint due to the heat of the dehydrator. Not to mention getting tape residue which is annoying to remove. :shock:

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I'll take the polishing cloths and sharpen up the edges a smidge.........then the last step is clearcoat.....................but not today as I want the stripes to get the dehydrator treatment for a good 6 hours or so.

I originally thought about painting the interior parchment, but I'm going to paint it charcoal black instead. With the white stripes there would be too much "brightness" with that color interior.............I think the black interior would contrast better.

So I'll clearcoat tomorrow................then let the body sit once more in the dehydrator..........then I can work on the rest while everything is drying.........

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned! :wink:



Did you say you use Tamiya Waterbased Clear on this car? I have never been able to airbrush any acrylic paint. What is you secret?

#23 MrObsessive

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 03:56 PM

Did you say you use Tamiya Waterbased Clear on this car? I have never been able to airbrush any acrylic paint. What is you secret?


The pics that are shown Len don't have the clearcoat on it yet.....................I just did that last night and I'll post pics sometime this weekend after I get everything rubbed out.

I've never had trouble with Tamiya clear...............the key is to have high enough pressure in your airbrush, (about 20 PSI) and then to use their thinner. I've used plain alcohol in the past, and had nothing but trouble for some reason.

You have to make quick passes...................I use the largest tip in my Badger Crescendo and then let it set up for about 1/2 hour, then I put it in the dehydrator for about 8 hours.

It can be daunting to some who've never used it before, but it gives an excellent shine when rubbed out and it dries rock hard.

If you can find my '59 Buick thread, I also cleared that with Tamiya with no trouble. :wink:


#24 MrObsessive

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 08:09 AM

I got the body all rubbed out since clearocating it with Tamiya Clear X-22. I wet sanded with Detail Masters polishing cloths (3200-12,000 grit) and did the final polishing with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax.

One thing I found out is that you can't put too much of their thinner in the paint as it can actually cause fisheyes. I noticed this when I started to paint the one side.................I didn't like how it was turning out, so I stripped it with Windex, and started over.

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Look at that reflection!

One nice thing about Tamiya clear is how rock hard it dries and how it can also be wet sanded just like regular paint. I use this type of clear coat mainly because most clears out there are just too "hot".

There's nothing more frustrating than to get all the way to having a great paint job, only to have to start over again because of clear ruining the paint! This is simple to strip if things get out of hand and clean up of the airbrush and jar is easy.

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Later after the interior and chassis are done, I'll take some BMF and mask off the areas I want to paint black, such as the window and door sill trim.

Now I'm off to eat some fried turkey!! Posted Image

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!


#25 mannyclub

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 08:57 AM

Killer mustang!!!!! Love the color and the stripes!
Manny

#26 MonoPed

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 09:42 AM

Great build!!
Sonic Blue is one of my fav FoMoCo colors, and it looks killer on your Mustang!

#27 marcelo ninci

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 09:45 AM

This is gonna be a genuine Mustang. Nice paint job!

Marcelo

#28 bjscustommodels

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 03:05 PM

OMG thats going to be one sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet Stang!!!!!!!!

#29 cruz

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 06:27 AM

Hey guys, I tried that same clear since I saw Bill's 59 Buick and it really works great, I thinned it a bit with Tamiyas thinner on an extra hood I had lying around my parts box and like he says in dries rock hard but you have to make sure you give it plenty of time to dry, it is slow drying......Thanks for the advice Bill, I will use it some day on a model.....

#30 cruz

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 06:30 AM

http://public.fotki....ober/cruz1.html Hey Bill, this is a picture of mine, don't think you have seen it yet. I painted mine with HOK Lime Gold and Odds and Ends clear from Wal-mart, wet sanded and polished. Did not have any issues with the body while painting but then again I have never had any issues while using my favorite Floquil primer :wink: Pegasus rims and tires are the choice for its shoes and of course I lowered it a little more than usual for the ground hugging effect. Hope you like it and just to let you know I am happy that you are taking a little more time to build your models a little quicker for our enjoyment, I mean, I love to see those really detailed models of yours but brother I can assure you we will have more fun seeing more of your models on the tables :D Hope to see you at our next get together......

House of Kolors Lime Gold..............

#31 JTRACING

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 08:18 AM

Great paint work!!

#32 MrObsessive

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 11:26 AM

This week I needed to focus on the wheels...............the stance problem was killing me as I've heard others complain about it, so I figured I might as well get started. I first stripped all the wheels with Easy-Off (Yellow can!!) which took off all the chrome and the undercoat they use to plate at the model companies.

The wheels I used are the custom wheels out of Revell's '59 Corvette kit. These I thought most closely replicate the "Bullitt" wheels I wanted for this Mustang.....................Wheels Revell should've included in the kit! :D

I could've left the chrome alone...............but that would have been just too bright for my tastes and 1:1 2005 Mustangs don't really have super shiny wheels to begin with. At least for this wheel type.

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After the chrome was stripped I sprayed a coat of Alclad's black lacquer on each of the wheels. The trick here is to get a very smooth coat on each wheel to achieve the desired effect of the final chrome spray.

The smoother the undercoat, the better (and more realistic) finish you'll have. As you can see here, only a few mist coats are needed to get the results as shown. Don't overdo it..............or you'll get a flat aluminum look to your wheels.

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After the chrome was dried sufficiently, I brush painted with Tamiya Gunmetal acrylic the spokes as shown here. Once again careful painting and a steady hand is needed so as to not run the paint on the surrounding rim.

The wheels were then shoehorned into the kit tires...........one thing I noticed is that the wheels are actually two different sizes for front and rear. Once mounted though the difference is negligible.

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When I originally was dry fitting the wheels, they seem to stick out too far from the wheelwells of the car...........a fix was in order! Note the superglue I had to put around the bead of the wheels to keep them in place........:)

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I got out the dremel tool and ground away at the wheel center to get rid of that offset.......this cured the problem of them sticking out too far.

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I used the metal "pins" that were in the kit and tried to center them in the wheels as much as possible.................these were then epoxied into place.

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Okay! Here is the result of all the work! Not my usual "studio shot"......(I'll save that for when the model is totally done) just wanted to get a glimpse of how the model should sit once everything is said and done.

I did tweak the front and rear suspension by shaving 1/32" or so of plastic off the front springs and then bending (carefully!) the front suspension arms to ensure straightness. The rear didn't need much work........just shaved the springs for the rear slightly to get it to sit lower.

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Side profile................Yes I will get back to the '55 Ford in the background sometime! :)

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So far so good from all angles.......the proof of the pudding will be once I get the interior in and the other fittings such as headlights, etc......

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One caveat about using Alcad...............I did notice some rubbing off of the chrome when trying to get the wheels into the tires. Interesting, because years ago this stuff was bulletproof, but then disappeared from the market for awhile.

Seems as though when it returned the formula was changed or something. :?

Anyway, a lot of care needs to be used when trying Alclad, and no, I would NOT recommend clearcoating the chrome (or any other of their finishes) as it will reduce the effect of the color.

The weekend's here so now I can concentrate on the interior..........hopefully I can get this all done in time for next weekend's MAMA Christmas party. :wink: :)

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!


#33 Tom Kren

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 12:56 PM

That looks sweet Bill Love the wheels and that paint job the same!!!

#34 MonoPed

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 04:34 PM

Very cool - those wheels look great!

#35 bob paeth

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 07:39 AM

Am I confused or what? You guys are saying to spray the bare plastic with Future floor wax before painting ? And the paint will stick to the wax ? This defies logic when I am told to wear gloves when handling bare bodies to keep body oils from contaminating the surface ? Am I still in the twentieth century? Where's Kansas Toto ?

Bob :?:

#36 S10man

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 07:46 AM

Am I confused or what? You guys are saying to spray the bare plastic with Future floor wax before painting ? And the paint will stick to the wax ? This defies logic when I am told to wear gloves when handling bare bodies to keep body oils from contaminating the surface ? Am I still in the twentieth century? Where's Kansas Toto ?

Bob :?:


Bob...Future is an acrylic finish, not wax. It sticks to most everything, and most everything sticks to it, especially paint (you should see how well overspray sticks to the Futured tiles in my workshop!)

#37 MrObsessive

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 10:29 AM

Am I confused or what? You guys are saying to spray the bare plastic with Future floor wax before painting ? And the paint will stick to the wax ? This defies logic when I am told to wear gloves when handling bare bodies to keep body oils from contaminating the surface ? Am I still in the twentieth century? Where's Kansas Toto ?

Bob :?:


Hi Bob!

Yes, I've handled the body a LOT since the paint has cured......not to mention the hours rubbing out the clearcoat to get the finish you see-----and the paint has not rubbed off the Future. I highly recommend it to anyone who may not be familiar (or doesn't want the trouble) of mixing up BIN to seal Revell's newest plastic.

This is especially needed if you're going to use automotive paint as I used here.

Another thing about Future is that it will seal the plastic from bleed through when painting over that stupid molded in yellow or red plastic. :x

And if you're doing some bodywork you want to seal..........this stuff's great too! The military guys have been using it for years! :D

It also makes great water for dioramas! :wink:


#38 BIGTRUCK

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 10:55 AM

Very nice work on that Mustang Bill , stripes and wheels look super....I know this has probably been asked but I'm old an slow and getting older an slower, do you shoot the Future on bare plastic straight up or is there a blend your using? Thanks.........

#39 Steve H.

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 11:45 AM

In addition to Ken's question, I have another. Does the future hold up to any type of paint going over it? On my current build I'm going to use Tamiya primers. The Tamiya won't attack the Future, will it?

#40 S10man

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 11:59 AM

Looking great so far Bill, and some useful tips as well. I agree with the others that its crying out for stripes!