1949 Mercury

[MrObsessive]

I was about to jump into a superdetailed build I have waiting in the wings, but seeing there are a lot of new folks here that are new at this crazy hobby we call model building----------I thought I'd do a thread on basic model building.

My "guinea pig" is the 1991 reissue of the AMT 1949 Mercury. The last time I actually built one of these was for my Dad in 1986 (He still has it!)

The first part of this thread will be just basic things to do before you lay on the first coat of paint. Important because a lot of newbies get disappointed when they jump into the first paint job and the results are less than stellar as can be expected from someone starting out.

Hopefully, this little tutorial will help you out and you can always ask tons of questions if something is unclear. Okay, lets get started!

Here's the box art of the kit that'll be used..............

When separating the parts from the trees.....DO NOT twist the parts!! Get yourself some decent cutters or this nifty little sprue cutter I got from our local train shop.

It'll save you a LOT of grief later!

No matter how close you get to the edge of cutting away a part, you'll still have a little nub that needs to be carefully filed down flush with the panel in question. You can use a diamond file (carefully) or use 400 grit sandpaper followed by 600 grit.

As you can see here on this fender skirt, the little nub has to go. Failing to do this can lead to a ragged unfinished appearance to your final product.

Next, scan the body for mold lines. This being an old tool it will be full of them.......most likely in the darndest of places.

As pointed out by the arrows, there are at least four that I picked up on.......there are probably more along the body sides, but I want to concentrate on this for now.

Here are a couple more at the rear.

Not seen too well in this pic, there are "ripples" along the tulip panel which will still show up through your paint job in the end.

We want to sand this as smooth as possible without causing a "trough" or "ridge" in the tulip panel. Balsa wood cut down to size is great for sanding along body work and can be cut easily to suit whatever shaping you'll need to do.

Under the tulip panel are indentations for the trunk hinge. One has to be careful of this area especially when using the hotter paints such as lacquer and some acrylic enamels.

Ghosting can occur where this was molded due to the thickness of the plastic obviously not being the same as the surrounding area.

Once you get proficient in painting it might be wise to use some kind of barrier for the plastic (Future is a good one) or VERY SLOWLY apply your hotter paint to avoid the ghosting.

I like to use mostly 400 grit sandpaper as mentioned above to get rid of parting lines followed up by 600 grit. Most of your local auto supply stores have this grit sandpaper on the cheap so it's good to stock up. I adviser staying away from the hobby sandpaper as for the cost they won't last you, and they don't fold up so nice and neat like the automotive grades do.

Now mind you, I'm not the end all be all of knowledge when it comes to basics in kit building, and others may have a different way of going about this. However, keep in mind that these are my methods of doing things after over 30 years of building.

Your mileage may vary!

Stay tuned as I'll try to get rid of those mold lines and focus on some other "basics" in this not hopefully too long build!

Thanks for lookin'!

Edited March 14, 2010 by MrObsessive

[riz]

What a great idea! Thanks for putting something like this together in a full tutorial! This is exactly what a beginner would need to know to become a good model builder as well as somebody who may have been building for a long time. I'm sure there will be plenty of helpful tips that I myself will learn from. Thanks again for doing a project like this.

RIZ

[Dr. Cranky]

It's not just for newbies, Bill, this is good information for EVERYONE. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[crispy]

These are the type of tutorials I love. Clean bright photos and concise explanations. Keep it up Bill!

It'll be nice to follow along and actually see how you work your magic.

Chris

[MrObsessive]

Okay, it's time to jump some more into the bodywork..............

I started to get rid of the parting lines starting with 400 grit and then followed up with 600 grit paper. Some builders may prefer to go super smooth with the sanding, however I've found that paint likes something to grab onto.

If you give the surface of your plastic some "teeth", you'll have better adhesion to the surface, and less chipping/wearing away will result.

So far this is looking good.............but hold the phone!!

I learned a technique years ago by Ted "Chopper" Lear about using liquid glue to get rid of ghosting.

You see plastic has a very good memory! Not only does it like to go back to its original shape when it's bent, but it also remembers what was molded onto it!

By brushing liquid glue (Ambroid is my favorite) on to the area sanded, you're bringing back the memory of those parting lines that were sanded away. Glue is about the hottest solvent you can put on plastic----it's what makes the plastic bond to itself in the first place.

By letting the liquid glue thoroughly dry and then re-sanding the area, you're now "erasing" the memory of what was molded there. Thus when you paint, since paint is not a hot a solvent as glue, the memory shouldn't come back.

This is great for you customizers out there, whether you're trying to get rid of trim, door handles, etc, without having to worry about the dreaded ghosting.

Sometimes when sanding away parting lines, the surface isn't quite even where the parting lines are located. This is the case here with the rear section of this Merc.

I decided to putty the uneven surface with Tamiya Putty------good stuff BTW as it shrinks very little (it has some aluminum in it) and it dries fairly quickly to be able to work with it.

Just the same, I like to let my putties sit overnight so there are no surprises and I know the putty will have dried rock hard by the time I want to sand it.

Moving on to basic sanding of the bodies-------this is where I see a number of models fall short.

I've judged contests in the past where candy paint was used and more often than not the paint was drawing away from the door lines. This problem can be greatly reduced if you take a sanding block and sand the sides of the car around the door lines.

This way you get rid of the "trough" which is due to the molding process and get the surface as flat and even as possible. Be careful when sanding though as you don't want to sand away details such as scripts, trim lines, etc.

For the tulip panel where the surface was wavy, I've got a smaller piece of balsa wood to do this area. You want to be careful and keep the motion steady and follow the contours of the body,

Don't try to rush things or more work will result!

Well, that's pretty much it for now! Hopefully the putty will be dried enough to work with it tomorrow morning, and then it's on to other things.

Stay tuned!

[Tonioseven]

Okay, it's time to jump some more into the bodywork..............

I started to get rid of the parting lines starting with 400 grit and then followed up with 600 grit paper. Some builders may prefer to go super smooth with the sanding, however I've found that paint likes something to grab onto.

If you give the surface of your plastic some "teeth", you'll have better adhesion to the surface, and less chipping/wearing away will result.

So far this is looking good.............but hold the phone!!

I learned a technique years ago by Ted "Chopper" Lear about using liquid glue to get rid of ghosting.

You see plastic has a very good memory! Not only does it like to go back to its original shape when it's bent, but it also remembers what was molded onto it!

By brushing liquid glue (Ambroid is my favorite) on to the area sanded, you're bringing back the memory of those parting lines that were sanded away. Glue is about the hottest solvent you can put on plastic----it's what makes the plastic bond to itself in the first place.

By letting the liquid glue thoroughly dry and then re-sanding the area, you're now "erasing" the memory of what was molded there. Thus when you paint, since paint is not a hot a solvent as glue, the memory shouldn't come back.

This is great for you customizers out there, whether you're trying to get rid of trim, door handles, etc, without having to worry about the dreaded ghosting.

Sometimes when sanding away parting lines, the surface isn't quite even where the parting lines are located. This is the case here with the rear section of this Merc.

I decided to putty the uneven surface with Tamiya Putty------good stuff BTW as it shrinks very little (it has some aluminum in it) and it dries fairly quickly to be able to work with it.

Just the same, I like to let my putties sit overnight so there are no surprises and I know the putty will have dried rock hard by the time I want to sand it.

Moving on to basic sanding of the bodies-------this is where I see a number of models fall short.

I've judged contests in the past where candy paint was used and more often than not the paint was drawing away from the door lines. This problem can be greatly reduced if you take a sanding block and sand the sides of the car around the door lines.

This way you get rid of the "trough" which is due to the molding process and get the surface as flat and even as possible. Be careful when sanding though as you don't want to sand away details such as scripts, trim lines, etc.

For the tulip panel where the surface was wavy, I've got a smaller piece of balsa wood to do this area. You want to be careful and keep the motion steady and follow the contours of the body,

Don't try to rush things or more work will result!

Well, that's pretty much it for now! Hopefully the putty will be dried enough to work with it tomorrow morning, and then it's on to other things.

Stay tuned!

Bill, I'd like to thank you for posting this! I now hava couple of new 'tools" in my arsenal for future builds!!

Edited September 7, 2009 by Tonioseven

[Foxer]

Just some more encouragement to keep this flowing for EVERYONE! The trick with glue for memory release was a new one for me.

[Raul_Perez]

Very nice work, Bill.

When does the book come out?

Later,

[cruz]

Well, if there's a teacher out there you want to learn from is definitely Bill Geary!!!! What a great idea, I really think there will be a book about this subject in the near future and with those clear and precise pictures, it will definitely be a possibility!!!

[MrObsessive]

Now that the putty has hardened up, I went ahead and smoothed everything out. Now the area where the parting lines were are even-----the nice thing about this putty is it feather edges wonderfully, and primer and paint should go over it with no trouble.

To get rid of the "empty" look of the opening, I'll be soon adding a lip to the perimeter of the

opening. This is pretty simple to do, and I'll show how I do it here a bit later.

Now lets turn our attention to this wavy tulip panel. One thing I like to do to not disturb original contours is to put tape over areas that I don't want sanded away.

In the case of the tulip panel, I need to sand right against the area of the roofline where the crease meets the panel. I laid Tamiya Tape as it bends very easily and won't leave any tape residue when I'm done.

If the tape starts to wear away while I'm sanding--------just replace it with some more! This is an easy and cheap method to do......it'll save you a lot of headaches trying to recreate contours (or worse scripts) because of over-enthusiasm with sanding.

If you're contest inclined, you want to catch the eye of judges immediately?

Make sure the roof, trunk, and hood are spotless and wrinkle/divot free! One of the first things I notice if I'm judging a show are those areas as naturally they're facing the light.

Prep work is paramount here as you want to make the surface smooth, and without and imperfections due to the molding process.

In the case of this Mercury------there's a lot of real estate on this roof, so we want to make sure this area early in the game is as smooth as can be.

Same goes for the hood. We want to protect the windsplit molded on the hood, so lets employ the Tamiya Tape once again to keep from sanding this down.

We can work one side at a time because of the windsplit.

Here's an example of why you want to block sand the hood and roof. It's nice that the kit makers mold in detail such as the hood bracing and such. Or with the roof, a molded in headliner/dome lamp.

The downside to this is because of the way parts are molded, this detail can show itself as a sink mark, or a mold depression on the top side of the part.

What I said about making impressions when folks are viewing your model are quite evident here. You want this area to be smooth as snake's skin so when it comes down to final rubbing out and polishing, you should be able to see yourself as if looking in a mirror!

One of the tools in my modeling arsenal is this handy item called a "Touch 'N' Flow" applicator. It's invaluable to get liquid glue to where you want it without a runny mess.

Simply dip the open end in the glue jar, and the suction will pull the glue through. Turn it downwards, and the glue will flow towards the end.

.............And here's my liquid glue of choice. Good 'ol Ambroid Pro Weld! I've been using this for years now and seldom build without it!

I like it better than Tenax, because it doesn't evaporate as fast as Tenax in the jar, and I've found Tenax to lose its "bite" after so long.

I wanted to glue the hinge on the trunk early.............Whenever parts have to be glued on body panels, I want to make sure the part doesn't "show up" on the topside.

Since painting is one of the last things I do.........I want to make sure this is fully dried, and if there is some "topside ghosting", it can be sanded away with no problem before painting.

A little goes a long way with Ambroid...........just touch the area with the tip and the glue will go to where it's needed by capillary action.

Within seconds it's bonded-------but it's good to let it sit for awhile to make sure it stays put.

Well that's it for now.............I've about finished block sanding the whole body, and now I'm working on getting the hood to sit properly with a few tweaks.

Stay tuned!

Edited September 8, 2009 by MrObsessive

[Lyn]

that was amazing! thank you so very much for posting it. I have been reading a lot of the posts trying to figure out what to do when I do start to build again.. Is there a chance you'll be posting the first model you built when this one is finished?

thank you once again!

[MrObsessive]

Is there a chance you'll be posting the first model you built when this one is finished?

thank you once again!

You're welcome Lyn!

I'm afraid the first model I ever built is over 30 years gone now! My first model was a Monogram '57 Corvette that was lets say------less than stellar.

I'd thought I'd do this for folks who are just either getting started for the first time, or those who've been away for long time and need some brushing up.

We've got a lot of new ones joining up lately-----at least if it's here in a post that they can bookmark and keep, they can refer to it if they're wanting to know the basics.

I'll be on this one awhile.........I'll try to keep updates to least a couple a week. I've been off work since Friday, and go back tomorrow night, thus the more frequent than usual posts I've been able to make.

[Dr. Cranky]

I am loving every step of the process. Keep it going!

[Bernard Kron]

...I'd thought I'd do this for folks who are just either getting started for the first time, or those who've been away for long time and need some brushing up. ...

Put me in Category 2 (needs some brushing up). I'm willing to bet there will be very few builders who won't get something important out of this meticulous step by step through "the way to do it right". As for me, I'm four for four - each post had some important "lightbulb moment". Your generosity is greatly appreciated!

Edited September 8, 2009 by gbk1

[Custom Hearse]

Your the perfect person to do this Bill. Your models are excellent, and you always have time to answer questions on certain building procedures (I know I've asked my fair share, and always got an answer from you).

I say we start a petition to have this post pinned so it will always be easy to find for the new generation of modelers (and the ones who are re-starting their modeling).

Thanks for doing this for us Bill, your work is sincerely appreciated!

[LVZ2881]

Nice Job Bill!!!!! Great idea!!

and thanks for the pics of the Ambroid...any chance for a pic of the Tamiya Putty??

It helps for people trying to get the same stuff if they know what the package looks like.

[Peter Lombardo]

Bill, I see you "called out" the Tamiya putty around the trunk area....when was the last time you purchased that stuff? I always liked the Tamiya putty but have not been able to purchase it for the past 6 or so months....the store owner tells me that it has been discontinued. If that is true it is a real shame because like you, I found the putty to be superior for the "small" stuff. I like to use bondo for the "big" stuff. Anyway, let me know if you are able to find the putty in stores cause I would love to get some more of it....P.S. nice idea to do a "how to" story....lots of good tips, even for the experienced modeler, from time to time it is good to re-visit the basic's. Good choice of kits as it is very old, but still a very serviceable mold, that does need a fair amount of clean up.

[MrObsessive]

Bill, I see you "called out" the Tamiya putty around the trunk area....when was the last time you purchased that stuff? I always liked the Tamiya putty but have not been able to purchase it for the past 6 or so months....the store owner tells me that it has been discontinued. If that is true it is a real shame because like you, I found the putty to be superior for the "small" stuff. I like to use bondo for the "big" stuff. Anyway, let me know if you are able to find the putty in stores cause I would love to get some more of it....P.S. nice idea to do a "how to" story....lots of good tips, even for the experienced modeler, from time to time it is good to re-visit the basic's. Good choice of kits as it is very old, but still a very serviceable mold, that does need a fair amount of clean up.

Pete, I bought another tube (actually I have three) about a year ago. I thought I heard it had been discontinued, but haven't seen concrete evidence of that. Wouldn't surprise me though as when something really good works, they always find a way to get rid of it somehow.

I'll be posting another update tomorrow-------in the middle of fixing something to eat so I can get to work shortly.

Later!

[MrObsessive]

Another update so far!

Here's pics of what the Tamiya Putty comes in. I hear it's now discontinued (I don't know why).....it's too bad because this putty was perfect for small jobs as it DOES NOT SHRINK!

I now have a total of 2 1/2 tubes. I think I remember hearing about it being discontinued the last time I was at our local train shop. That's probably the reason why I bought the extra tube.

A little goes a long way with Tamiya Putty.

The hood needed some tweaking as it wouldn't sit right on the cowl. I believe the thickness of the hood is not consistent from side to side-----so I added a tiny shim to the rear of it.

I also cleaned up the back edge of the hood to match the contours of the cowl better. I want to make the hood so that it can lift off totally. Not that there will be much detail under the hood (remember this is Modeling 101!) but to make some visual interest just the same.

Now I want to do something about those fender skirts! There is NO positive location to place them on the body!

Sooooooo..................

While the masking tape is holding the skirt in place where I want it, I made a tracing on the inside of the skirt where I will place some plastic rod later.

As you can see a few pieces of plastic rod, have been added. The reason I'm doing it this way is I want to paint the skirts separate from the body.

That way there won't be any "pulling away" or "fuzziness" around the edges of the skirts when painted. It's also easier to rub out the paint, polish, then add the skirts afterward.

By making a positive location, you also lessen the chance of smearing epoxy all over the body when attaching. After the body is painted, thoroughly dry, rubbed out and polished, I'll then attach the skirts with Tamiya tape for positioning, then epoxy 'em from the inside.

Stay tuned for more...........!

[MrObsessive]

Another problem area I noticed, is this way too thick body work section here. Now I'm going beyond Modeling 101 a bit, and my "Obsessiveness" is kicking in.........but I've got to fix this!

Let's take the Dremel Moto Tool and thin the fender walls out a bit. Be careful if you want to do this! I have a variable speed tool so I have it at the lowest setting possible!

I don't want the speed so fast for it to slip and gouge the bodywork.

Ahhhhh! Much better! But now I see another SNAFU..............

Let's add a "lip" to the inside of the trunk area. Real trunks in 1:1 have a lip to seal the trunk with weatherstripping to keep the nasties out..........we want to replicate something like that here.

If this step is a bit much for you, you can skip it-------this is aimed more at the advanced builders who sometimes neglect this subtle yet important detail.

I added sheet plastic at the corners..............

Then with a round file, I wanted to create a radius for the corners. Look inside any car trunk--------the corners never come to an abrupt sharp angle.........there's always radii there.

Since the corners have an angle to both sides, I want to join all the corners with some strip plastic that's also angled.

The strip plastic is a .010 x .080 pieces that'll be used here.

Using the Ambroid, I'm gluing the strips around the perimeter of the trunk opening.

Now! This looks more "complete" and less "empty". I didn't shave down the tulip panel as this needs to stay put because the trunk hinges off of it.

I need as little drama as possible to build this!

I'll clean the edges up as well as fill in the gaps.............then I think I'm about ready to paint! BTW, the paint color will be deep Krylon Navy Blue----- a very close color that Mercury offered for 1949. The darker colors to me always show off the curves a lot better than lighter colors when it's all rubbed out and polished.

Well that's all for now! I'm going to depart from my norm and paint the body early. Usually I wait until near the end of the build to minimize fit troubles. For the sake of this tutorial however, I'll paint early and while the paint is drying, go through the engine, chassis, and interior prep.

Thanks for looking! Comments welcome!

Edit: Whoops! Looks like Fotki had onions for dinner again! The final pic should show now...........that's the one with the lip around the perimeter of the trunk opening.

Edited September 11, 2009 by MrObsessive

[lonewolf01]

hey bill this is getting really interesting . would this be about the same way you would lip a door ?

[MikeMc]

As an old fart I have learned most of this over the years. But to find ALL of this together allows me to REMEMBER and use it!!!

THANKS BILL!!!!

[MrObsessive]

hey bill this is getting really interesting . would this be about the same way you would lip a door ?

Yup! About the same--------you'd want to thin out the doors like I did the inside rear fender area to be more in scale to represent how it would look in 1:1.

[David@MinidreamsInc.]

VERY NICE WRITE UP Mr. Obsessive ! Its really cool to see take the time with something like this. As well and detailed as your builds are i would hope every member on here is taking a look in here and following along !

[Custom Hearse]

VERY NICE WRITE UP Mr. Obsessive ! Its really cool to see take the time with something like this. As well and detailed as your builds are i would hope every member on here is taking a look in here and following along !

You can bet I am!

Nice work bill! And I learned something new also! I'll be watching this for the entire time.