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Futur or Future? What is it and where do you get it?


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#1 BigBeze

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 10:38 PM

I keep reading about this, sounds like a clear coat not sure but every car Ive seen on here that has it on it looks great. Any one that can let me know what Im missing out on?

#2 Smart-Resins

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 01:57 AM

http://www.swannysmo...leteFuture.html

I bought mine at Wally World for about $5. Works great. Just make sure you do follow the step regarding covering the model after spraying! It WILL collect dust. LOL. Jody

#3 Pete J.

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 07:24 AM

Future is no longer available, as such, in the US. It has been re-branded as Pledge with future shine. There are other "Pledges" as well but the old stuff we are all use to is "with future shine". After hunting high and low I found it at Home Depot in the cleaning section.

In short it is an acrylic floor finish with a very high gloss. It is fairly strong and gives a very nice gloss finish. I use it for all my clear parts(windscreens, head lights, etc.). Gives plastic a very convincing blueish tint much like real glass.

#4 Chuck Most

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 07:29 AM

Future is no longer available, as such, in the US. It has been re-branded as Pledge with future shine. There are other "Pledges" as well but the old stuff we are all use to is "with future shine". After hunting high and low I found it at Home Depot in the cleaning section.

In short it is an acrylic floor finish with a very high gloss. It is fairly strong and gives a very nice gloss finish. I use it for all my clear parts(windscreens, head lights, etc.). Gives plastic a very convincing blueish tint much like real glass.

I've heard it takes a fairly long time to dry- any truth to that?

#5 roadhawg

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 07:56 AM

I've heard it takes a fairly long time to dry- any truth to that?


Dry to touch, an hour. Dry for a second coat, 24 hours.

#6 Pete J.

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 01:26 PM

I've heard it takes a fairly long time to dry- any truth to that?

Relative to lacquers, yes. It needs a dust free environment, especially if you are going to put it on clear parts. I have a dust free cabinet that I put is in to dry. There is a lot to making it look right. I have never had much success with air brushing it but others swear by it. Kind of a try it and learn thing. I prefer clear lacquers for anything that is not clear, so what ever your can make work for you. Good luck.

#7 BigBeze

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 05:15 PM

Ok,so what should I use for a clear coat? and shoud I sandthe color coat first? Any one want to explain how to put a good shine to my model.
I prime it and the I hit it with a couple of coats of the little 5 dollar cans of Acrylic.
What am I missing? Anybody?

#8 Pete J.

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 07:55 PM

Ok,so what should I use for a clear coat? and shoud I sandthe color coat first? Any one want to explain how to put a good shine to my model.
I prime it and the I hit it with a couple of coats of the little 5 dollar cans of Acrylic.
What am I missing? Anybody?


There is an old saying that the magic is in the magician not the wand. In short that means that you need to find a process that works for you and stick with it. Here is a link to my process and tips. Hope it helps. http://www.tamiyausa...p?article-id=35

#9 BigBeze

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 10:28 PM

WOW! That was everything I needed to know in a nut shell. Thanks!

#10 Smart-Resins

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 02:23 AM

Dry to touch, an hour. Dry for a second coat, 24 hours.

I have done up to three coats in a row! The second coat will "melt" into the first coat. So if you have any small runs or what have you, you can spray another coat almost immediatly and just spray a tad there and a touch more on the rest of the model and it will blend in together. Another one said the magic is in the magician. This is so true. There are many clears. it is a matter of works for you! A big step again is the polishing of the model when all is said and done! You can put on say ten coats of color and polish the heck out of it and not do any clears! The main trick for the clears is to make sure there is no or minimal damage to your color coat when polishing or handling! The reason I like the future is if you do body work, you can clear it and that stops the gohsting effect! If you are spraying multiple coats, you can clear inbetween coats. You can also clear, then do decals and BMF then clear again. You can also clear over your clear plastic pieces and your chrome!That last one is a nice one, that way your chrome does not rub off over the yeaars of handling! Someone had said you can not spray laquar over future. I have not had a issue with this providing I gave the future 48 hours to completly cure before doing my paint over it! So again, it is more the user then the item being used! its all wht you prefer! Again, the main trick is the polishing that helps make it shiny! Now, I have used turtle wasx for that! I am now wanting to get into either micro mesh or novus, wich I will be asking that today! Thanks. Jody

#11 Chuck Most

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:31 AM

Thanks guys- I've been thinking of trying it to make puddles in a junkyard display I'm planning.

#12 BigBeze

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 02:59 AM

Thanks guys. I guess Ill figure it out over time which is best for me. When I started building I brushed all my cars but that was when i was 12 now Im 27 and just started back up again and sprayed 2 already. they look alright but some of the cars on here just make me sick, Had to get some tips. Thanks again

#13 MikeMc

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 12:14 PM

Thanks guys. I guess Ill figure it out over time which is best for me. When I started building I brushed all my cars but that was when i was 12 now Im 27 and just started back up again and sprayed 2 already. they look alright but some of the cars on here just make me sick, Had to get some tips. Thanks again



You need to pick up Bob Downies airbrushing book and Donn Yosts DVD. Go thru both of them and you will become a much better painter.

no matter who you like you must get a smooth base first. Custom or OOB you still gotta be smooth. primer or not...you have to find a system that will

work for you. Lacquer , enamel, or acryllic....find what you like to work with all have advantages and disadvantages.

Good luck !:angry: :lol:

Edited by MikeMc, 27 January 2010 - 12:15 PM.


#14 BigBeze

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Posted 07 February 2010 - 05:07 AM

Thanks, I have used the clear coat once now and just like you sai smooth is the key, clear coat does not make mild orange peel the least bit glossy looking, just found that out. I use the spray cans for now. I would like to start experimenting with an airbrush but funds are limited. It is easier to come up with 5 bucks for a can ever time I need to paint than it is to buy a cheap air brush set for some reason??? Thanks for all the hints and tips. Off to orange peeling my paint jobs!