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how do you make rust holes and dents


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#1 Nick Winter

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 06:19 AM

I know how to rust and weather but what's the best way to acomplish this.

#2 JamesW

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 06:43 AM

I would say thin the plastic out from the back and use a #11 blade to poke through and rough the edges up a bit. Heat the plastic to make some dents. Maybe someone else has a better method though.

#3 raymanz

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 07:00 AM

The best way I've found to make rustholes is on the inside of the body with a dremel tool with a round bur bit(like a lawnmower). Go slowly around wheelwells or where you want holes. The slower you have your dremel speed set works best,the plastic will bubble up and you know it's time too stop. Then poke through where it's bubbles and weather with paint. Another good idea is to find something metal thats already rusting and take a razorblade or whatever works for ya and scape away some real rust,then try and powder it as fine as you can. Take some water(couple of drops) and make a real rust wash. If you want too checkout some of my builds go to HUBGARGE.com and search for RAYSRADICALMIND Garage. It's an AWESOME site that I think you'd like. Good luck and if you have any ?'s get in touch with me through this site,you've got me name. Ray

#4 James W

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 07:26 AM

I cut the plastic from the back with a sharp ball cutter. The sharper it is the less likely to create heat and melt plastic which you don't want to do.

If you thin the plastic it acts more like metal and will bend. You can create tracks where the plastic will bend like a dent in sheetmetal. Or you can thin a whole panel and make dents by heating it with hot water.

Hold the plastic up to a light to check how thin it is getting.

I sometimes paint white plastic with dark primer so I can see from the side I am cutting how thin it is getting.

Once it is thinned, you can break through the plastic with a sharp blade to make rust holes. Do this from the back side and leave the jagged plastic 'hanging'.

Hope these help a little.

#5 Nick Winter

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 08:07 AM

thinning the plastic from behind with a round ball type cutting bit works the best like mentioned. instead of using an X-acto knife to poke the holes though i'd recommend using a pin. the pin will make holes that look like rust, where as the knife has a tendency to make straight edges.

the biggest thing here is to make sure you don't make rust through in areas that wouldn't rust through in normal circumstances. panels don't typically rust through in the middle ;) most cars and trucks rust through in common places like behind the wheels and rocker panels. trucks are notorious for lower cab corners. before rusting a model out i'd go online and look at pics of the 1:1 and see where problem areas are. Ebay motors is an excellent source of pics like this.

Dave

thanks Dave and the rest of you fella's, I was curious because I've got some great photo's of a old '54 ford Farm truck, and I'd like to build it.

Edited by Dukefan69', 12 February 2010 - 08:09 AM.


#6 VW Dave

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 08:11 AM

My favorite panel thinning tool is a ball-shaped milling bit in my Dremel, and I periodically check my work with a light; once the plastic gets thin enough, I use a small dental pick to pop open small holes. Once you've practiced a few times, you can make larger holes with the Dremel bit on its own.

Here's a few small holes in my '55 Chevy truck, prior to Instant Rust paint application:
Posted Image
And here's a holier than thou Monte quarter panel:
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For dents, I use a candle for heat application - hot water takes too long IMO, and a propane torch works waaaay too fast. ;) A quick pass over the heat source, and I press a solid object into the surface(usually an X-Acto handle or dowel). Dusting with pastels after paint & detailing can really accent the dentwork too.
I gave the Monte's roof a few wrinkles:
Posted Image

#7 Nick Winter

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 08:23 AM

My favorite panel thinning tool is a ball-shaped milling bit in my Dremel, and I periodically check my work with a light; once the plastic gets thin enough, I use a small dental pick to pop open small holes. Once you've practiced a few times, you can make larger holes with the Dremel bit on its own.

Here's a few small holes in my '55 Chevy truck, prior to Instant Rust paint application:


For dents, I use a candle for heat application - hot water takes too long IMO, and a propane torch works waaaay too fast. ;) A quick pass over the heat source, and I press a solid object into the surface(usually an X-Acto handle or dowel). Dusting with pastels after paint & detailing can really accent the dentwork too.
I gave the Monte's roof a few wrinkles:

Dave between you and Davezinn I've got my question answered and then some, thank you guys, here's the real truck
Posted Image
Posted Image
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Posted Image

#8 diymirage

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 12:31 PM

the best way to get holes and dent in 1:1 vehicles is to let the wife drive it
so all you need to do is find a scale wife and let her drive it :>

#9 VW Dave

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 04:47 PM

VWDave has some good examples shown of not taking it too far.


Thanks for the kudos, brother Dave, and I agree it is easy to overdo weathering. A bit of advice I picked up from a model RR builder was "when you think you can do a little more to make it perfect, stop."

#10 weasel

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 07:00 AM

the best way to get holes and dent in 1:1 vehicles is to let the wife drive it
so all you need to do is find a scale wife and let her drive it :>


you met my X???

BWWWAAAAAHHHHHAAAAAAA!!!!

Edited by weasel, 13 February 2010 - 07:00 AM.


#11 Nick Winter

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 12:44 PM

I don't know Eelco, i seem to remember pics of a pretty well mangled Hyundai that you were driving posted here :D

i pulled into our local Wally World one afternoon and parked next to a small 4-door sedan. when i got out i noticed the back door on the passenger side had a close range shotgun blast to it that well perforated the thin sheetmetal. the blast came from the outside from i'm taking a guess at maybe 3 ft away. the inner door panel was obliterated as well as the edge of the seat. this wasn't fresh damage either as there was a good amount of rust formed on the exposed metal. sometimes the things you see out in public, you just can't believe.

Dave

Dave that reminds me of something stupid my uncle Jeff did on his farm, he came out to see a bear had killed his dog so ran back in and grabed his 12 gage cam out and fired a few times at the bear who was next to his truck, needless to say his truck ain't any prettyier a new side window back window and a mirror later.

#12 Nick Winter

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 12:49 PM

I used a mixture of this and Cranky's Mr. Penguin to do my truck, and it turned out great. thanks fella's

#13 diymirage

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 12:28 AM

I don't know Eelco, i seem to remember pics of a pretty well mangled Hyundai that you were driving posted here ;)
Dave



i posted that here huh ?

then id better not show you the cougar i had before that :D by the time i got done with that car the only body panels unharmed were the roof and trunklid, every other panel was toast :huh: turns out you really cant go 3 wide down 16th street :blink:

#14 coopdad

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 05:15 AM

Here is a good WIP from the Master (DCranky)
http://s13.zetaboard...opic/6677799/1/
He also shows his rusting process.
John

#15 Blake Rogers

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 08:18 PM

why not ask ur uncle to shoot ur model????

#16 VW Dave

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 03:50 AM

I used a mixture of this and Cranky's Mr. Penguin to do my truck, and it turned out great. thanks fella's


So....are you going to share the 'great' finished model with us? :huh:

#17 Blake Rogers

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:31 AM

Dave that reminds me of something stupid my uncle Jeff did on his farm, he came out to see a bear had killed his dog so ran back in and grabed his 12 gage cam out and fired a few times at the bear who was next to his truck, needless to say his truck ain't any prettyier a new side window back window and a mirror later.

sound like old uncle jeff can't shoot :) poor truck what make was it?

#18 Nick Winter

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 10:41 AM

why not ask ur uncle to shoot ur model????

hahahahahahaha wow did somone write that for you.


So....are you going to share the 'great' finished model with us? :D

well Dave I'd love to but I still haven't replaced my camera yet.

#19 Nick Winter

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 10:42 AM

sound like old uncle jeff can't shoot :D poor truck what make was it?

it was Dark Smarty pants, it was a '96 Dodge Ram 3500 Ext cab long bed dually, with the cummins, any further questions?

#20 Blake Rogers

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 11:18 AM

:D :lol: :lol: so he was shooting blindly wow :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: