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#1 pbj59

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 10:20 AM

Hi everyone!
Could someone give me some tips on spraying (airbrush) model paints?
This is for styrene models, what paint is best? reg model paint like testors, modelmaker or just use enamel paint from the hardware store or? How much do you thin these? I have the most trouble with this and masking. I have testors thinner for airbrushing. Will regular paint thinner from the store work?
I used a testors airbrush before, now am waiting on delivery of a badger - any tips on these airbrushes would be appreciated.
Mostly I have used laquer paint for lexan bodies, but that is different, so any tips on that would be great.
Roy Walkup

#2 mannyclub

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 10:59 AM

Hi Roy!
The main thing in mixing any paint is to have the consistency of milk! How much thinner for lacquer and enamel reducer for enamel paints depends on the thickness of the paint. Enamel has more pigments, which makes it um thicker?
Your local hobby shop should carry some good paints, Testors, Model Master and Tamiya!
I use a few things for masking; I use Frisket paper sold by Badger, Hobbico Master Mask liquid and fine line 3m tape.
When buying thinner, I buy it by the gallon normally about $25.00 (the good stuff) by PPG or Dupont and the best one but pricy is HOK Thinner.
What airbrush did you buy?

Hope this helps a little.
Manny

#3 pbj59

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Posted 01 March 2006 - 09:49 AM

Hi Manny,
I dont know which model the badger is, someone is sending it to me to try and I wont know till then. Is there a big difference between badger airbrushes?
I will get some reg thinner - that price beats $2.99 for a small bottle of testors thinner.
I've evidentally been mixing the paint too thick, that is probably why I havent had good luck with the old testors airbrush. I will do like you said, the consistancy of milk. I've had better luck on lexan bodies, that paint is already thin.
Thanks!
Roy

#4 mannyclub

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Posted 01 March 2006 - 10:30 PM

Hey Roy,
Your welcome.
Well there are alot of nice Badger air brushes, and different ones for different uses as many are.
Model 100-200 are nice for models.
Model 350,250, are good for large areas.
The Badger Model 150 is a common one for alot of modelers for painting.
I my self have alot of Badger air brushes, as well as Iwata. I have a Badger 360 model that is awesome!
Some Tamiya paints are just about thin enough to spray without thinning, just check the paint before ya spray it is all.
The paint for lexan is (most of it) is pre mixed and I have also used that before too.
*For primer I only use Plastikote automotive primer for everything I do, every part etc.
When ya get the air brush i can give ya some more info. on it too. Any questions feel free to ask!

Manny

#5 Jairus

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Posted 02 March 2006 - 05:19 AM

Manny, thus far I have not disagreed with what you have written about this subject but I must add something.

You mentioned Lexan paint being Ready-to-shoot.... You must be talking about the FASKOLOR line. Right?
Because I have found the Pactra Racing Finish colors by TESTORS does need thinning. If shot right out of the bottle, will create way too much air-dried-dust-balls forming around the inside of the racing shell. Doesn’t matter if I use my Badger 150 or Iwata gravity feed!
So, definitely thin this paint with Lacquer thinner prior to loading it into your airbrush. Probably best to use the specified RC Lacquer thinner too. I have used the cheap stuff and it WILL work but for some reason it creates little globs at the bottom of a jar of paint that is getting low and old. Luckily that doesn’t happen to me very often... and I cannot believe you guys read this far down..... :)

#6 mannyclub

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Posted 02 March 2006 - 07:59 AM

Thanks Jairus, Ya i agree with you for sure, some lexan paint does need to be thinned, they must have some new stuff out now lol the ones I used were air brush ready and really thin, amost to the point where i could have added more paint to it! lol I do belive they were just Pactra. I think I said that right, are you still reading this? hehe

Thanks
Manny

Ya the Pactra paints I used there thinner too. I dont like the paint dust balls, were not trying to do a 3d paint job! Literly anyway lol Still reading? ok bye

#7 MrObsessive

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Posted 05 March 2006 - 09:39 AM

Hi Roy!

I concur with everyone here about the type of thinner to be used.

Whenever I want to transfer paint from a can to an airbrush I like to use those paper cups that are used for snow cones.

You can cut out the bottom slightly and this will make a perfect funnel! You don't get the mess associated with just trying to spray in the jar and cleanup is easy............just simply throw the cup away.

These aren't readily available in stores for some reason.......I got mine on eBay----for a pack of around 200 cups or so, it cost something like $10. These will last you a looooooooong time! :)

I like to thin my paints with acetone, especially acrylic enamels such as Krylon and others. Lacquer thinner is okay, but acetone seems to really "wash" the color through and not leave any "beadiness" when mixing in the jar. It also seems to run through the airbrush very well.

BTW, I use a Badger Crescendo for my paint jobs. I've had it for 10+ years and it is still working GREAT.

As far as masking.......the best stuff in the world I have found for that is Tamiya Masking Tape!

It is not heavily tacky like some other masks, and it also leaves a perfect edge behind when pulled up.

As with any project that you're unfamiliar with------ my golden rule is to always TEST, TEST, TEST!! 8)

HTH,

Bill

#8 pbj59

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 08:21 AM

Hi everyone!
I got the airbrush, it's a model 200. a simple airbrush but way better than my old one. I received many ( 40+) bottles of lexan (laquer ) paint, they would cost more than the brush.
Anyway, now I am getting a small electric compressor. I see one on harborfreight for 49.99 complete with gauges etc.
Locally I cant find one like it, but there are "pancake "compressors cheap. Is there a reason to choose one over the other? I will need more hose and a water trap. Where can I get one of those? Any particulars to look for?
I cant wait to get started. 8)
Roy

#9 Jairus

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Posted 09 March 2006 - 09:01 AM

Roy,
Harbor Freight also sells hoses and water traps. Just to get started you can get one of those "throw-away" in-line water traps. They usually come two to a package, molded in orange plastic, and threaded for the standard 1/2-inch pipe thread.
If you live in a really dry climate then you could get away without using a water trap... just a thought. Also, if you have an air compressor with a tank then you probably won't need the water trap in that instance either. (The water usually collects in the bottom of the tank and has to be removed once in a while)
The compressor from Harbor Freight sounds like a pretty good deal if it comes equipped with a pressure regulator!

What airbrush did you get? A Badger?

#10 pbj59

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Posted 13 March 2006 - 09:25 AM

Hi Jairus and everyone!
The airbrush is badger model 200, very simple but will do the trick. I also received a big bagfull of pactra paint.
I dont know if the link works, but this is the compressor I ordered:

http://www.harborfre...temnumber=92403

Again, very simple but for what I am doing for now ( as a beginner) its fine. It supposed to have a trap and some hose, also a pressure gauge. Do I need anythig else? Not a word about an air regulator in the description, do I need to get one of those? I did order an extra trap and a couple adaptors for the line, just in case. This unit only goes to 30psi, is that ok?
I'm about ready to start practicing, using some modelmaster paint. I have some model kits I am building into hardbody slot cars. those will be my guinea pigs. :) I havent much experience really, I am more of a motor/chassis guy (with slot cars) than a body detailer, but that needs to change. I always did simple paint jobs before, using spray cans frequently.
This is going to be great, maybe I will be able to show something here in the (distant) future.
Roy

#11 Steve D.

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Posted 18 March 2006 - 07:35 AM

One thing to keep in mind , try to use the same companys thinner and paint together . Sometimes when mixing types , the paint will just turn to jello and be unusuable .
If you try to use cheap generic thinner to thin the paint this is OK as long as you don't return this mixture back to the bottle . Use what you need and throw the rest away .
I keep a can of Model Master thinner just for mixing paint , but I also have an old mustard jar (plastic squirt bottle) full of the cheap stuff for cleaning my airbrush and brushes . I keep a bottle of Lacquer thinner also as I paint a lot of lacquer . Lacquer is great for cleaning dirty brushes and airbrushes . One word of caution about lacquer thinner , it will eat away the rubber "O" rings of airbrushes if left in the brush . Always after cleaning your airbrush with lacquer thinner flush it out with regular paint thinner...the cheaper the better!!
Hope this helps , any questions just ask ,
See you around the clubhouse ,
Steve D.

#12 weasel

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Posted 18 March 2006 - 12:26 PM

ah ha!! so that's why my Pasche VL is acting weird...
never thought about the thinner, i figgered they would use o-rings that were compatible to lacquer thinner... hmmm...
i got my compressor at HF also, but it was $69 when i got it over a year ago, and it comes WITH a pressure reg and a water trap...

#13 Jairus

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Posted 18 March 2006 - 03:44 PM

Nice compressor! That will last you for a lot of years!

#14 slotbaker

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Posted 04 April 2006 - 02:50 PM

Hey Roy, how's the airbrush going?

I'm in similar position to you, being into kit bashing slot cars, and now getting enthused with airbrushing.

All of this great stuff on this forum has got me. :)

I'm trying to work out which air brush to buy, and have been following this thread. Thinking of keeping it simple for starters with single action brush.

Please show us some of your guinea pigs.
:D

#15 pbj59

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Posted 05 April 2006 - 04:45 AM

Hi!
I've been practicing, mostly fiddling with the pressures and adjustments on the airbrush. Still getting the feel for thinning the paint. Havent got it right yet, but I think its going to be great. i just need to get my skill level up now.
I have some old model kits I am going to re-use, that will give me some experience.
The Badger 200 is a nice little brush, of course the only one I have to campare is a testors ($20.00 at wal-mart) and the Badger is much better. I'll try to get the photo thing going here soon.
Maybe it's just me, but the laquer painting on lexan seems easier than oil enamel on styrene.
The compressor I bought goes up to 30psi, so I cant paint acrylics but thats ok for now.

#16 Gregg

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Posted 05 April 2006 - 10:06 AM

:-)

#17 Scott Lynch

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Posted 13 April 2006 - 11:24 PM

Was just reading about the O rings in the airbrushes. Over several years I have learned a few things. And here is what I have found. The badger, Blue Point, and Thayer Chandler "Vega" all have air valves with rubber seals that can be unscrewed before soaking the airbrush in lacquer thinner if thats the case. The Badger, Blue point, and Vega take the same fitting. Dont remove the core, remove the fitting with plyers by turning the teeth on the shaft next to where you screw the hose on.(if this makes any sense) The only other O ring I have found in these is the one at the nozzle on the Vega. I might add that the Badgers, and Blue Points (identical airbrushes, different companys) clog at the tip and have to be cleaned often. The cheaper Vega seemed to be a better airbrush. The Pasche you have to remove the core. Iwata airbrushes, The one I use for the models has a Teflon seal and no worries with lacquer thinner, model, or automotive paints. That was a big selling point for me. This is something fairly new. Just remember never use any bleach around these, it attacks brass like crazy.

#18 pbj59

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Posted 14 April 2006 - 07:30 AM

What can I do to reduce orange peel? This is with oil enamal like testors. I wash the car with dishsoap and rinse well, completely dry.
Been thinning about 40-50% at different times ( with testors paint thinner for airbrush) and still cant get a really smooth paint. It doesnt look to bad (for me) but compared to the paint jobs I see here, its just not good enough yet. Should I thin even more?
I have used between 20 -30 psi and I do have a water/oil trap. Could it be the psi is wrong?
Also, Have any of you tryed to use oil enamal like rustolium or whatever they sell at the hardware store? I have been burning up the bottles of testors ($) practicing, wondered if this would be comparable? Only for practice but it needs to be similar to do any good. The colors are limited unless you get it mixed. I thought it might be worth a try, about $4.50 a pint.
Thanks!