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rust & weathering beginner kit?


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#21 raymanz

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 05:27 PM

Have any of you guys tried REAL RUST washes? Some Real rust finely ground up and some water does great in a pinch. Various stages of rust really helps too.I've used the sopisticated system and have had great results with it also.I can't post pics here because I don't have a Fotki or photobucket account-But you can see some of my builds @ HUBGARAGE.com in Ray'sRadicalMind Garage there or on SAE's photo shots. Good Luck VwDave

#22 Kodiak Island Modeler

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Posted 06 September 2010 - 09:53 PM

Dave is right about using the round ball on the Dremel from the inside. For the weathering, I use water based craft paints from Wal Mart. I also take the kindergarten approach. I dry brush the paint on, and then take my fingers to blend it on. For gritty rust, I use silica sand mixed in with the paint.

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Remember that weathering happens differently as to how it happens. Think about what your vehicles represent. Notice that the weathering on the static cars happens in and up and down Pattern, while vehicles in motion will show display that.

#23 Models by Bear

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 11:22 AM

Those are the 2 parts of the same "Instant Rust" set I mentioned above; I'm guessing you got them separately, which gives you bigger bottles than the set does.

That's impressive for your first attempt at weathering....my first was long ago, and far from that good.


Thank you very much for the compliment. Yes, I did get the big bottles separatly because I couldn't find them in a set. But, on the bright side, I have more product to do other projects.

#24 VW Dave

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Posted 24 September 2010 - 08:03 PM

I must be doing something wrong while using the Sophisticated Finishes. can't get the heavily rusted effect.

It's possible you didn't shake the base paint enough(to stir up the metal content), or applied the top solution too early. I try to apply the base and top finishes a day apart, or even more. 'Random reapplication' of the top solution, which was mentioned in a previous reply, is another way to get good results. Real rust is anything but uniform.

I've gotten good results using a 1" foam brush to apply the base paint, using the technique called stippling; it leaves a light amount of material(with a bit of texture), and no brush strokes...kinda like drybrushing, but without the side-to-side motion of actual 'brushing.' I've also dry-sanded the rust with 700 grit paper to tone it down, and give a more realistic patina finish. I used the foam brush stippling method and dry-sanding on my Charger's front fenders:
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#25 Romell R

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Posted 24 September 2010 - 08:32 PM

No rust but there is a nice side swipe on this car with dents and damage B)
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Edited by Aftashox, 24 September 2010 - 08:33 PM.


#26 el Presidente

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Posted 25 September 2010 - 05:05 AM

Those are the 2 parts of the same "Instant Rust" set I mentioned above; I'm guessing you got them separately, which gives you bigger bottles than the set does.

That's impressive for your first attempt at weathering....my first was long ago, and far from that good.

Sophisticated finishes works great for me, the only problem I have with it is the iron metallic surfacer hardens in the bottle after a few uses. I end up having to throw almost half a bootle away all the time

#27 59 Impala

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 03:37 PM

I use Sophisticated finishes also and love it. I rusted a 57 Chevy and a 49 Ford with it. Here are a few pics of them.
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There are more pics of both in my photobucket if you would like to see them. Dan

#28 VW Dave

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 05:48 AM

Nice work, Dan - especially on the '49. :angry:


After reading others' methods of use, I tried the Instant Rust 'baggie' trick for the first time recently, and will never do it again. The result was very shiny and 'crystalized' rust, which didn't look right to me.

#29 59 Impala

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 04:08 PM

Dave, that happened on the 49 also. What I did was to spray a lite coat of dullcoat over everything. The only paint on the car is flat black and the coat of dullcoat. The rest is just the plastic showing. Except the hood and the chrome trim that is. I thought the same thing about the shinyness of the rust and the dullcoat took care of that. I hope this will help ya. Thanks for the kind words. Dan

#30 Foxer

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 08:20 AM

I'm getting ready to use Sophisticated Finishes to rust out a van I'm working on and, since this thread is pretty much about that, I have a question. The Iron Metallic Surfacer I have seems a bit thick and went on heavy on the test I did. I'd like to know what consistency this is supposed to be. It's almost like a goo even after I added a little water to thin it. And, is water the proper solvent to thin it with? It does say it's a water based product.

At any rate, it was very difficult to get a smooth application of the dark grayish metal look that shows in many of the samples here. The rust chunks are not a problem.

Here's a photo of an headed after 2 applications of the rust solution in a baggie ... I did put some dullcoat on it to tone the shine down.
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Edited by Foxer, 20 November 2010 - 08:23 AM.


#31 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 08:53 AM

This thread really puts a big smile on my face because I see that rust and gunk are making their way into everyones' benches!

I love it.

You know what Cranky says:

LONG LIVE RUST!!!

#32 Nick Winter

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 09:47 AM

I did this after watching Cranky build a '55 Chevy truck. I used like VW Dave said a round dremel bit and then a dental pick, I used Testors Rust, then salted it, then sprayed the color, the removed the salt, then dry brushed some finely ground real rust over it.

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#33 Foxer

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 10:35 AM

That's a nice one, Nick! The dents are really well done ... as is the rust. It's all VERY believable!

#34 Mr. Show

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 10:40 AM

Weathering is a lot of fun, but man the temptation to go overboard is strong. I ruined a chassis that I had looking really nice with light rust and black washes, then thought to myself "Hey! What about airbrushing a white gray wash for a dried dirt appearance?" It went from a subtle rust and grease effect to a kaleidoscope. The gray covered pretty much all the detail from previous washes. At least it should be easy to fix, or at least I can't make it look any worse.

Edited by Mr. Show, 20 November 2010 - 11:00 AM.


#35 Nick Winter

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Posted 20 November 2010 - 03:13 PM

Like James just said Don't go over board, I had a older modeller say to me just in general about model building "If you think you can add one more thing stop, your done"

#36 vaughn

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 11:37 AM

So many great ideas and techniques from everyone. Just goes to show that there is no one specific way to do these things. Just be creative and enjoy ! HAPPY THANKS GIVING to all.

#37 RyanSilva

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 02:11 AM

The easiest way and cost effective (in my opinion) to start weathering is, pick up a few acrylic craft paints on sale from your local a.c.moore, michaels crafts, joanns etc.

Look for browns and blacks that vary in hues, such as wrought iron, umbers and siennas. A nice round head bristle brush and a cosmetic make up sponge (latex work the best)

Work in layers, building up various colors (which means you will want to go back to previous colors to create dimension) Try it on a chassis.

I like airbrushing my colors and and adding the final crud with a brush also.

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#38 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 04:14 AM

Cranky's lovin' this thread!

#39 flappy188

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 04:20 AM

amazing thread!

#40 Darren B

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 12:08 AM

It is i have learned alot from it, any more ideas?????