Another Studio 27 Build
Posted 20 April 2006 - 08:44 AM
Beautiful two-tone paint job.
Didn't know it was two tone until I had painted all the red first.
The yellow went down on top of the red, very surprised it worked as well as it did
Couple tricks with these or other decals, slice them where the panel lines.
I have seen too many decals that just lay over a hood or door line, just doesn't look right. These have to be some of the best if not the best decals I have ever used. No outlines, or clear around edges of decals.
Posted 20 April 2006 - 09:00 AM
Are the seats and lots of parts white metal? That is one material that I wish never was discovered by model producers, as the part finish is always rougher than resin, finishing is a tedious and often thankless job. Too many model companies use it as a crutch to add weight and cut down their production costs/time. I have one Model Factory Hiro kit and I despise the parts that are white metal, they would have been so much nicer had they been produced in resin. So many superb parts in resin/photoetch/machined aluminum and then you look at the white metal parts and they don't even begin to compare.
Posted 20 April 2006 - 10:09 AM
I have found that the automotive primer surfacer, not sealer, works the best on the metal parts.
I am still experimenting with soldering white metal, don't yell, I am using the resistance soldering set.
It works fantastic on photoetch, have to practice more on white-metal
Posted 20 April 2006 - 10:12 AM
I have the HRM transkit and a Fujimi spyder kit, gonna build #5373, the Begian Ecurie Francorchamps entry that finished eigth in the '72 LeMans 24hrs.
Be sure to post pics when finished!
Posted 20 April 2006 - 12:44 PM
Posted 20 April 2006 - 02:03 PM
keep in mind i dont have an airbrush but use buzz cans. that makes it difficult to build up paint coats because so much comes out at once and if you step back and try to dust it on it is never very smooth even with a final flow coat.
so whats the secret?
Posted 20 April 2006 - 02:17 PM
I was going to tape car up and lay down white primer base, but thought, what the heck. Try it!
I washed it, let it dry, then taped it up.
I let Tamiya Yellow sit in sink of hot tap water. You know can is ready when you shake it and it doesn't turn cold. If it turns cold, keep it in water longer.
I sprayed very light coats, one every five minutes.
That was the key, go slow, and let the paint gas out.
It covered the red well, which really surprised me. The red is Tamiya Itallian Red, both spray cans.
Seriously, it was a piece of cake, one light mist coat or pass at a time.
I never made two passes (that cute girl at the bar don't count) on any panel untill car was completly covered, or the 2/3 of the car anyway.
To help the tape guide, I scanned the decals for the Italian flag down the body, printed it, and cut it out to use as a template.
I always use Tamiya tape to tape off anything.
I rub every single milimeter of the taped area with a rounded/sanded toothpick. This leaves a near perfect tape line.
After dried for couple hours, there was a slight paint build up, but I rubbed it with polishing cloth and it went away.
Posted 20 April 2006 - 02:43 PM
decals I also do military models and I see people do it there also.
Posted 21 April 2006 - 08:26 AM
i think in essence my problem is patience. lack of patience to be more precise. everytime i go to paint something i think "okay only a little at a time" but before you know it im shooting a "flow coat"!
thanks again, that yellow sure looks nice over the red. that sort of makes sense when you think of it though...
now im off to attempt (my third attempt i might add) to paint this maserati birdcage slot car body yellow. again...i must use mist coats i must use mist coats i must use...DOH!!!
maybe i will post pics of the runs! im hoping for all hits no runs no errors this time!
Posted 21 April 2006 - 08:59 AM