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Door & Hood Hinges - Different Ways to Make Them


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#121 Ron W.

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:29 PM

Need hinges for coups roadsters. I tried this....R/C model airplane hinges from the wings. The plastic is of a differenr materal,so you'll have to use super glue,or slow drying CA.Do NOT get any on the hinge pin ! found that out the hard way. this is on my 36 Ford.
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Now a close-up. If you look close you can see the front of the hinge that I run it through a slot through the cowl,and glued it to the firewall. It's covered up by the hood.
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Worked well on this also. Better than those small ones in this kit.
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#122 Darren B

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:25 AM

Not finished yet, but soon.

Cool I have a few more projects ready to start but before i cut the body panels want to make sure i can use a more realistic style hinge. One thing i was thinking of is that for trunks the wire hinge isnt to far off for looking ok. As looking at my trunk hinge its pretty close, but not for the doors...

Edited by Darren B, 05 May 2011 - 12:27 PM.


#123 shucky

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 03:32 AM

This may offer "realistic operation" but how on earth would this look realistic on a model? A thick piece of styrene with a hole and a wire pin passing through it? What about the unsightly gap of the inner door panel and door skin? The gap looks huge?

#124 Corvette.Jeff

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 07:40 PM

looks a million times better than the alternative!!!

#125 Darren B

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 07:54 PM

looks a million times better than the alternative!!!

I agree, it might have a large gap but even that gap can be disguised somehow. B)

#126 Darin Bastedo

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 08:53 PM

This may offer "realistic operation" but how on earth would this look realistic on a model? A thick piece of styrene with a hole and a wire pin passing through it? What about the unsightly gap of the inner door panel and door skin? The gap looks huge?


I'll try to answer you in order...

1. "A thick piece of styrene with a hole and a wire pin passing through it" That is why I'm doing a Gen II version with metal hinges.

2. "What about the unsightly gap of the inner door panel and door skin?" I admit in the case of the model pictured there was more finishing work to be done. that is why that project eventually was abandoned, but it made a good learning tool. I have another Sidewinder kit that will get Gen II hinges.

3. As for the value of this technique, when I'm done and have published the tutorial, I'll let you be the judge. Use the technique or don't it's entirely up to you. This will simply be an alternative.

#127 Casey

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 08:12 AM

. now my only question is how do you deal with the interior side of the door and the door jambs?


That is the Catch 22 when making functioning doors. Once you cut the door (or trunk) free from the body, you create a lot more work for yourself. It all depends how accurate and true to the 1:1 vehicle you want it to be, but removing the doors is just the beginning. Are you going to add the body structure, to which the door hinges bolt, and which will be highly visible once the doors open? How about the jamb area, where the latch or striker bolt is bolted? Rocker panels? Don't forget you'll be able to see behind the front fenders now, too...

I don't think I've seen a better attempt at replicating scale functioning doors than Mark Gustavson's Mercari project in SAE years ago. The problem is parts and pieces in 1/25 scale are tiny and while opening the doors is a great idea, all of the work which goes along with doing just that is not all that fun.

Even kits which were designed to have opening doors simply skip over the rest of the details, and end up looking inaccurate when the doors are actually opened, IMHO.

I guess I'm of the opinion that if you're going to have functioning doors on a model, you shouldn't take the easy way out and ignore all the other work required for true scale accuracy.

#128 sjordan2

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 11:32 AM

My question is, with all the aftermarket suppliers out there who provide a multitude of parts, and with the frequency with which this issue is addressed among modelers, why are we left to figure this stuff out for ourselves? Why can't someone provide reasonably realistic hinging kits for this purpose? Seems like something that isn't that hard to design.

#129 MrObsessive

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 12:14 PM

My question is, with all the aftermarket suppliers out there who provide a multitude of parts, and with the frequency with which this issue is addressed among modelers, why are we left to figure this stuff out for ourselves? Why can't someone provide reasonably realistic hinging kits for this purpose? Seems like something that isn't that hard to design.


One reason is not every car uses the same type/style of hinges. Not to mention the different radii of various and sundry hinges to get them to work properly. A lot of what I do when making hinges is trial and error. I also like to have either a shop manual, or actual pics of the car I'm working on.

Some cars like street rods for instance have the same type of hinges (piano style), so they can be used pretty much universally. IIRC, the aftermarket makes piano hinges in various sizes for such builds. But more modern cars vary so much from door shape to hinge type-----it would be hard for an aftermarket guy to make one size fits all, and look correct in scale. :)


#130 MrObsessive

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 12:24 PM

That is the Catch 22 when making functioning doors. Once you cut the door (or trunk) free from the body, you create a lot more work for yourself. It all depends how accurate and true to the 1:1 vehicle you want it to be, but removing the doors is just the beginning.


You ain't kiddin'! And well said! ;) :)

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Those pics are from my stillborn '64 GTO..............The last pic I had yet to add a door catch. Yes, it can be time consuming to get the correct looking structure for door jambs-------but in the end it's worth it!


#131 Jon Cole

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 02:29 PM

I have two models; neither yet finished, that have cut open panels. The gap is dealt with by gluing scrap styrene to one side (vertical) edge, and one horizontal edge of the panel that was cut out. I forget if I used Plas-Struc(sp?) or Evergreen. A 1/16" square strip works. If the plastic needs to be "bent", soften it by coating it with liquid styrene cement... the solvents will do its job in just a few minutes. Once the glue dries, add a skim coat of filler (if needed), then sand down the new plastic to fit.
I'm no expert, so I hope I make sense with the description.

As for the hinges, too late for one model, but the other one... I want to try this "Gen. II" design.


#132 Chuck Most

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 12:58 PM

Too bad I didn't catch this one last week! B) Back to the drawing board, armed with this little tutorial!

#133 William S.

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:02 AM

This is a great tutorial. I was sitting in my office and looked in my desk, this is what I built. You can get three sizes from one paper clip. Looking forward to cutting one of my models and trying this hinge. Thanks Romell!Posted Image

#134 Romell R

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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:11 PM

Well there ya go William just use whatever you have at hand B)



#135 Darin Bastedo

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Posted 06 August 2011 - 05:11 AM

Well hopefully it will be worth waiting for, as It will include how to do realistic jams and will cover both types of higes, modern ones that cut in and older style that swing out.

#136 Mr Dedo

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 01:58 PM

Currently working with styrene tube and brass wire with mixed results. This looks more realistic than the wire loops. Would really like to see the pin tutor.

#137 GOTH KUSTOMS

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 04:54 AM

Guess it still aint ready...

#138 jdcar32

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 04:28 PM

[img][IMG]http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc489/jdcar32/model%20car%20door%20hinges/th_hinge.jpg[/img][/img]These are the basic designs I use for both hidden hinges and exposed hinges. Some of my posts in "Under Glass" show actual examples. The back side or heel of a #11 X-Acto blade with the sharp point removed works for scribing the door out .




[img]http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc489/jdcar32/model%20car%20door%20hinges/th_hinge.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc489/jdcar32/model%20car%20door%20hinges/th_hinge2.jpg[/img]

#139 camaroman

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 05:19 PM

Thanks for posting, I will try out this method!

#140 Devil1

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 12:37 AM

Bumpity bump