Making Door & Hood Hinges
Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:29 PM
Now a close-up. If you look close you can see the front of the hinge that I run it through a slot through the cowl,and glued it to the firewall. It's covered up by the hood.
Worked well on this also. Better than those small ones in this kit.
Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:25 AM
Cool I have a few more projects ready to start but before i cut the body panels want to make sure i can use a more realistic style hinge. One thing i was thinking of is that for trunks the wire hinge isnt to far off for looking ok. As looking at my trunk hinge its pretty close, but not for the doors...
Not finished yet, but soon.
Edited by Darren B, 05 May 2011 - 12:27 PM.
Posted 06 May 2011 - 03:32 AM
Posted 06 May 2011 - 07:54 PM
I agree, it might have a large gap but even that gap can be disguised somehow.
looks a million times better than the alternative!!!
Posted 06 May 2011 - 08:53 PM
This may offer "realistic operation" but how on earth would this look realistic on a model? A thick piece of styrene with a hole and a wire pin passing through it? What about the unsightly gap of the inner door panel and door skin? The gap looks huge?
I'll try to answer you in order...
1. "A thick piece of styrene with a hole and a wire pin passing through it" That is why I'm doing a Gen II version with metal hinges.
2. "What about the unsightly gap of the inner door panel and door skin?" I admit in the case of the model pictured there was more finishing work to be done. that is why that project eventually was abandoned, but it made a good learning tool. I have another Sidewinder kit that will get Gen II hinges.
3. As for the value of this technique, when I'm done and have published the tutorial, I'll let you be the judge. Use the technique or don't it's entirely up to you. This will simply be an alternative.
Posted 13 May 2011 - 08:12 AM
. now my only question is how do you deal with the interior side of the door and the door jambs?
That is the Catch 22 when making functioning doors. Once you cut the door (or trunk) free from the body, you create a lot more work for yourself. It all depends how accurate and true to the 1:1 vehicle you want it to be, but removing the doors is just the beginning. Are you going to add the body structure, to which the door hinges bolt, and which will be highly visible once the doors open? How about the jamb area, where the latch or striker bolt is bolted? Rocker panels? Don't forget you'll be able to see behind the front fenders now, too...
I don't think I've seen a better attempt at replicating scale functioning doors than Mark Gustavson's Mercari project in SAE years ago. The problem is parts and pieces in 1/25 scale are tiny and while opening the doors is a great idea, all of the work which goes along with doing just that is not all that fun.
Even kits which were designed to have opening doors simply skip over the rest of the details, and end up looking inaccurate when the doors are actually opened, IMHO.
I guess I'm of the opinion that if you're going to have functioning doors on a model, you shouldn't take the easy way out and ignore all the other work required for true scale accuracy.
Posted 13 May 2011 - 11:32 AM
Posted 13 May 2011 - 12:14 PM
My question is, with all the aftermarket suppliers out there who provide a multitude of parts, and with the frequency with which this issue is addressed among modelers, why are we left to figure this stuff out for ourselves? Why can't someone provide reasonably realistic hinging kits for this purpose? Seems like something that isn't that hard to design.
One reason is not every car uses the same type/style of hinges. Not to mention the different radii of various and sundry hinges to get them to work properly. A lot of what I do when making hinges is trial and error. I also like to have either a shop manual, or actual pics of the car I'm working on.
Some cars like street rods for instance have the same type of hinges (piano style), so they can be used pretty much universally. IIRC, the aftermarket makes piano hinges in various sizes for such builds. But more modern cars vary so much from door shape to hinge type-----it would be hard for an aftermarket guy to make one size fits all, and look correct in scale.
Posted 13 May 2011 - 12:24 PM
That is the Catch 22 when making functioning doors. Once you cut the door (or trunk) free from the body, you create a lot more work for yourself. It all depends how accurate and true to the 1:1 vehicle you want it to be, but removing the doors is just the beginning.
You ain't kiddin'! And well said!
Those pics are from my stillborn '64 GTO..............The last pic I had yet to add a door catch. Yes, it can be time consuming to get the correct looking structure for door jambs-------but in the end it's worth it!
Posted 14 June 2011 - 02:29 PM
I'm no expert, so I hope I make sense with the description.
As for the hinges, too late for one model, but the other one... I want to try this "Gen. II" design.
Posted 21 June 2011 - 12:58 PM
Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:02 AM
Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:11 PM
Well there ya go William just use whatever you have at hand
Posted 06 August 2011 - 05:11 AM
Posted 14 November 2011 - 01:58 PM
Posted 29 May 2012 - 04:28 PM