108 replies to this topic

[Cato]

This project is now waiting for interior cauges, I must print them out, but I haven't printer so I must give them to my dad, he can print them at work.

Here are the Stewart Warner gauges in my car-some Cobras came with Smiths which are arranged the same but have different faces and bezels. Mine are arranged:
Tach then speedo are the large ones. The tach is turned sideways so the redline is up. Then water temp, oil pressure, oil temp across the top and amperes and fuel level at the bottom.
Hope this helps.

[W-409]

Yes, that helps very much! Thank you Cato, again!

[Sport Suburban]

I built the last release of this kit and the differences I can see from the pics in this thread are:
1. no up top
2. different wheels
3.scoop on hood
4. only one carb with an airbox to seal it to the hood
5. tires in my kit are the well known "big and littles" that come in the 32 Ford kits
6. valve covers are the finned Cobra type

gus

Don't forget that the dash's are different. The street kit has the same dash pictured above with a glove box. The race kit has a different dash layout and no glove box.

[W-409]

Finally I have a little update to this build. I painted some primer to the body, when the weather was good. It looks good now, no any mold seams anywhere and it's smooth. I'll be painting this body metallic blue, maybe with spray can, and white stripes. The top will be semigloss black.









And the hood must be painted with primer also from the other side.

Edited by W-409, 28 May 2011 - 07:33 AM.

[W-409]

Some paint to the body... It's from spray can, but needs still some clear. Paintjob looks pretty good at the moment. I post few pics also from the frame, because I mentioned that there are no any pics about the chassis without on all four wheels. I also built a top part to the distributor. This build needs now some interior work, it's getting there slowly but surely... The hood needs some primer to the otherside before I can paint it. And the top will be flat black, but I haven't any paint for it yet.

[Dave Wood]

I've been looking for one of these kits for a long time. the red plastic works for me as well as the satin chrome that they came with, just have to get my hands on one

keep us posted

what have you got for Trade?

[W-409]

I decided to leave the body without clear, the shine is ok to me after the paint, so I put decals on. Hood needs still painting. Decals did fit quite well, but there are still few places, where I must add some white paint. Then the body looks good. I also glued engine to the frame. Fits fine, but I did shorten the propeller shaft, because otherwise engine couldn't fit to its place. Also some interior work. I added seats, handbrake handle and shifter and some other parts. Seatbelts are Scale Dreams' stuff and belt buckles are from Model Car Garage (MCG).




I added also the spinners...













Some black wash to the panel lines.

Thanx for looking, comments are always welcome.

[Romell R]

You have and excellent strat on this project keep up the good work.

[Ron a.k.a. Grouchy Pants]

You have and excellent strat on this project keep up the good work.

Absolutely, second that...

[W-409]

Thanks, Romell and Ron! I need now some flat black spray paint for that convertible top, which I'll be using. Interior cauges... I will print them out tomorrow, but I will put some smaller things now, like brake lines and that kind of stuff... Where is the battery located in original Cobra? In the trunk, or engine bay...?

[slantasaurus]

Very nice looking build Niko. I love all of these Monogram Cobra kits. The battery would be in the trunk.

[Cato]

Very nice looking build Niko. I love all of these Monogram Cobra kits. The battery would be in the trunk.

Wrong.
On street 427's-in front of the passenger side footbox. On competition cars, 2 Rebat 6 volts behind the passenger seat.

[W-409]

Thanx, both! If I remember correctly, this kit doesn't have a battery, so I must take one from my spares box... Thanx for the info. I have started adding brake lines, but they are still under construction, I can't finish them until I have the brake master cylinder fitted to the car, and that means, that I must put the body on before I can finish those brake lines... But if I remember correctly, I have one photo etch set of battery decals, and some battery cable, so I can make that battery look good.

[W-409]

Wrong.
On street 427's-in front of the passenger side footbox. On competition cars, 2 Rebat 6 volts behind the passenger seat.

Äh.... I didn't get 100% what you meant. So is the battery in the interior, where the passenger keeps his/her foot? Or in the engine bay? I have one battery under construction, but if it is in the interior, then I don't add so much detail to it, because no one can see it.

Edited by W-409, 26 July 2011 - 03:54 AM.

[Cato]

Öh.... I didn't get 100% what you meant. So is the battery in the interior, where the passenger keeps his/her foot? Or in the engine bay? I have one battery under construction, but if it is in the interior, then I don't add so much detail to it, because no one can see it.

Just what I wrote. Are you building a street or comp Cobra? Comp cars batteries are BEHIND the passenger seat, in front of the bulkhead. Look up Rebat batteries-they are 6 volt and long and slender. Street cars have regular batteries above the headers, in FRONT of the passenger footbox.

[sjordan2]

For a crazy amount of detailed, large-scale reference, check this out...

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/12933-test-driving-tdr-427-roadster.html

Here's where it goes in their 427 test kit



Also, here's an interesting thread where someone building the Monogram model (our fellow member Darin Bastedo!) is asking questions of experienced Cobra guys..

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=881.0

Edited by sjordan2, 15 June 2011 - 08:25 AM.

[XJ6]

I would like to ask..how did you paint the White Wall Lettering...This looks good..Thanks

[Cato]

For a crazy amount of detailed, large-scale reference, check this out...
Here's where it goes in their 427 test kit.

There are numerous things wrong with that kit. The battery is higher on a shelf, attached to the front of the footbox on street cars with cast iron head pipes. Cars with tubular headers need the space under the battery, else you could not service the battery.
The Wimboldon White footboxes are fiberglass, not tin and they don't have folded edges. The canisters for brake (2) and clutch are mounted on the driver inner fenderpanel and were black steel with steel hard lines running to their systems. Not white plastic mounted on the footbox.
The brake master cylinders are under the footbox, in a steel brake box that contains the balance bar and pistons and lines. The foot pedals pivot on the balance bar inside the cockpit.
The radiator has an upper attachment pin and tab mounted to he hood opening tube on the chassis and a hitch pin and vibration rubber between.
Don't offer this model as a "scale" reference.

Edited by Cato, 15 June 2011 - 10:12 AM.

[sjordan2]

There are numerous things wrong with that kit. The battery is higher on a shelf, attached to the front of the footbox on street cars with cast iron head pipes. Cars with tubular headers need the space under the battery, else you could not service the battery.
The Wimboldon White footboxes are fiberglass, not tin and they don't have folded edges. The canisters for brake (2) and clutch are mounted on the driver inner fenderpanel and were black steel with steel hard lines running to their systems. Not white plastic mounted on the footbox.
The brake master cylinders are under the footbox, in a steel brake box that contains the balance bar and pistons and lines. The foot pedals pivot on the balance bar inside the cockpit.
The radiator has an upper attachment pin and tab mounted to he hood opening tube on the chassis and a hitch pin and vibration rubber between.
Don't offer this model as a "scale" reference.

My bad. Just trying to help with the reference I could dig up. I might add that I added a link to a list of differences between the competition and street versions that you mentioned, as described by Cobra experts. You might send your thoughts to TDR before they screw up the creation of a very expensive kit in that's in progress. If you have better visual reference that you could post here for the OP, that could be helpful.

Edited by sjordan2, 15 June 2011 - 10:35 AM.

[Cato]

You might send your thoughts to TDR before they screw up the creation of a very expensive kit in that's in progress. If you have better visual reference that you could post here for the OP, that could be helpful.

Skip,
I have tried helping by posting advice and numerous pics of my 1:1, its engine and chassis and original CSX's but sadly, few builders get it right anyway. There seems to be a rush to open the box and put snazzy paint and white stripes on it immediately and then realize whole thicknesses and contours are wrong.
TDR has undertaken a huge task and in large part, accomplished it well. Its complexity will not make it 'cost desirable' to a large part of this and other forums in my view-despite the 'buy a little at a time' marketing. Guys here gripe at spending over $30 on anything. Marketing it on 1:1 Cobra sites proved ineffective because there are few model builders among those guys but the capital is there.
When Rick was at TDR, he and I discussed a Cobra project for them and he was aware of my credentials and experience. He subsequently left TDR and Garrett apparently decided Syd was more qualified to R & D a Cobra than a 1:1 Cobra builder. BTW, their steering wheel is one which Tim modeled after I sent him snaps of mine.
As a librarian of extensive research on classics and sports cars, you know the value of comprehensive research. My experience on model forums is that when it comes to Cobras, 'stand-off scale' is good enough-few have even the basic understanding of the car. At least Bastedo 'gets it' and went to an excellent original source.