Cato Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Detailing the battery... Well, I installed it just to the firewall, it's now there and it will stay there. Also some battery cable from Scale Dreams, but I must glue them next to the starter, and frame. Niko, You actually now have it in the correct place but it's called the 'footbox'. Where your legs go when seated inside the car. The 'firewall' is the large bulkhead under the windshield, behind the engine. It's probably too late now but if you build another Cobra and want greater accuracy, here are some tips: Use thinner spark wires (like .3mm)-original was 7mm in diameter, yours look like modern race 10mm wire. All chassis steel tubing was black paint. The brake ducts on the rear of your car were only on full competition models which also had a differential cooler. The battery cables should run from the battery positive to the solenoid which should be mounted on the firewall above the footbox. You could simulate one with a small diameter black rod or sprue with a terminal coming out of each side.Then wire from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. The battery neg cable then runs to the frame or a bellhousing bolt. Here is a smallblock, 289 '64 Cobra but the 427 will look similar in this area. You can see the battery just past the carburetor and the white fiberglass footbox with a ventilation hose which brings cool air from the nose vent to the footwell in the cockpit. Also note the black chassis tube from the firewall forward. Here is a competition Cobra with the race batteries mounted behind the passenger seat: Next are the brake and clutch reservoirs seen on a 427 (or 428) car, mounted on the driver side inner fender. Their hard lines run down to the brake box under the driver footbox then out to brass tee junctions at the front and rear crossmembers. From there, rubber hoses to each brake caliper. Also seen here is the puke tank mounted to the firewall. A 1" diameter hose runs from the rear of the intake manifold to the inboard side of the tank and another hose runs from the opposite side of the tank and just hangs straight down to just below the frame. It's called a road draft tube: Lastly, a view of the chassis from below and from the rear forward. You have your brake lines mounted under the chassis tubes. That would allow them to be damaged on a road car. Here you can see they are mounted on the outboard side of the chassis tube on the drivers side and held on by large steel worm clamps. They are 3/16" ID and in scale, that would mean you make them out of .005" (or .2mm) line. The line on the passenger side is a fuel return line to the gas tank. This car was 'over restored' and originals weren't this neat when brand new: I'm sure you chose the wheels because you like them but for accuracy, all CSX 3000 (427 and 428) cars ran on Halibrand magnesium wheels or Kelsey Hayes aluminum 'Sunburst' wheels. The torque of the big engines made wire wheels unsafe and they were only used on CSX 2000 series small engined cars. The Goodyears used on these cars were called 'Sports Cars Specials' or Bluestreaks. A few were fitted with Firestones but Shelby was a Goodyear dealer. I doubt if you love Cobras enough to go through all this work but the information is out there to really improve these kits. You're a skilled builder and are certainly capable of building a faithful model. Hope this is helpful to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I think you are doing a fine job on your model. I appreciate the kind words Cato Has said about my efforts to research and document my Street Cobra project, but don't let that diminish your efforts here. While total accuracy is a result many of us strive for there is something to be said for getting a model finished also. My model will be a fully detailed and accurate replica, yet between sratch-building the correct wheels and having them cast, hammering out the hood and doors out of aluminium, along with fabricating the inner panels and interior parts, changing the exhaust to the correct under car layout, and many other small detail changes (some of which were mentioned by Cato) my Cobra has become a Four year project, with much more work to be done. There were many cobras that have been rebuilt or modified to the point where they are hard to determine what they started out as with out actually researching that particular serial #. CSX3181 (the car I'm building) is one of them. I'm building it the way it came from shelby, but after it was wrecked it was rebuilt to resemble a 427 S/C with side-pipes and hood scoop etc. but still has some of the street car features such as the small gas tank, and the vents in the cowl. What I'm saying is build it the way you want it to be, call it done and enjoy it. If after you want to go the route of the insane and try to fix the inaccuracies in the Revell/Monogram kit, drop me or Cato a note and I will be glad to share my research , plans and drawings with you and we can skip off to the loony bin together. Enjoy your model and have fun, that is what it's all about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belair2k Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 What I'm saying is build it the way you want it to be, call it done and enjoy it. If after you want to go the route of the insane and try to fix the inaccuracies in the Revell/Monogram kit, drop me or Cato a note and I will be glad to share my research , plans and drawings with you and we can skip off to the loony bin together. Enjoy your model and have fun, that is what it's all about. Well said, Darin. Here's a link to CSX 3287 which sold locally recently. http://www.legendarymotorcar.com/site/Shelby_Cobra_427_9116 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks, Cato for the info! I'm building this as a practise for the other Cobra, I have on the stash. I wan't that one to be well detailed Race car. I think, I'll make this one finished very soon, and then I can take a little break from Cobras, and maybe after few weeks, I'll start the other one. Great info, didn't know about the black frame rails, must paint them like that to the Racing version. Also must do those few more things bit different, and that one will look good. I must get back installing the radiator, then I can put the body on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Got some more work done today, after spending last friday night on local Cruising, and weekend in DragRacing... I installed the brake lines, they are now pretty good, well, they are not correct, not as like 1:1. But anyway I installed the radiator, and built the lower water hose. Also I istalled the body-interior-chassis together. Now everything is coming along very nicely, and this one is getting ready pretty soon. Also painted the convertible top from the other side, and the hood with primer. Those are still needing some paint. Lots of cleaning coming, and then the final assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cotto Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 This is a cool project, other than the slightly oversized metal flakes in the paint, I really like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Thanks Jay! I don't think, the oversized metal flakes are a problem. In many showcars, they are really big, and in this scale if those would be correct sized, no one could see them well, so I think, it's better to keep those. And I think, they are looking pretty good too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 This is the last update before moving it to Under Glass section... I istalled the front bumber, headlights and turn signals to the front. Also added taillights, register plate and rear bumber to the rear end of the car. Sidewiew mirror is on its place, but I must still put the other one. Before that, I will install the windshield and convertible top, which is now painted. I painted the hood also, maybe tomorrow I can finish this buildup. The chassis needs still some cleaning, and so does the engine bay. Here you go, few pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 My Shelby Cobra Street version is now finished, and I will post it under glass section now. This one was very great project, and I had very much fun with it. I'm quite happy about the finished product too, but of course there are lot more things, what I could have done better. Thanks to everyone who has took time and wiew this build, thanx for all of the comments, and special thanks to Cato for all of the great information! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Haha, maybe you guys thought, that's it, but it is not! This ain't over. I'll be building the Racing Version also in this topic, because some of my reference materials are here, and it's easier to keep this thing in one thread. I can also do a little comparing with the Monogram and Revell kits. I've started this model long time ago, but I stopped the progress very soon. I have started the engine, it's painted red and there are few mistakes. I must fix them, and strip the red paint, because Ford engines are blue, aren't they? Also the frame is painted silver, but I must strip the paint off and paint some gloss black on it. Body is also primered, but I've found few mistakes from it after primering, so it needs some repair and new primer coat before the color. This one will be the blue car, which has nice decals straight from the box. Interior is also started, but I think, that it doesn't need any rebuilding, just finish that nicely and it will look good. Now I must take few things, like engine apart, and then I can strip the paints and continue building with this one. The Boxart. This one will be more realistic, than the Street Version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 It continues... I took the engine apart. Now I'm stripping the old paint off from it. The racing 427 is also blue, isn't it? When the old paint is off, I lay one primer coat to that engine, then I can paint it. Some of the smaller engine parts, like cylinder heads may be stripped also, but I'm not sure about it yet. I think, the engine is ready for primering pretty soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 The racing 427 is also blue, isn't it? No, the block and heads were black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 No, the block and heads were black. Alright, thanks for that note, I'll paint it black then, so it is more realistic, than it would be in blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Just took the engine away from the paint stripping. It's quite white now, but there are some red spots, and also some of those black spots. If I remember correctly, this engine was an test piece, where I tested using red on black primer. But now, I give a light sanding to it, then primer coat, which shows all of the mistakes. Then I'll fix them and new primer coat, maybe. Then the black paint. Or maybe I do it other way, so there comes less primer under the base coat. I didn't strip the paint off from the transmission, because it hasn't too thick paintcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Got the engine primered. It's now quite good and there are no big mistakes. I will paint it soon, maybe tomorrow. Then I must strip the paint off from some smaller parts too, before they are ready for assembling, because there is quite much paint in some places... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 Engine block is painted matt black right now. I painted the heads also. Needs to remove old paint, and some chrome from those other parts from the engine, I'm right now going to buy new bottle of MR Muscle. I painted the frame gloss black, but before painting, it needed very much sanding and cleaning. But now it looks ok to me. I'm moving to the interior, needs to put some flocking. Reference pictures from the chassis would be very appreciated, I have good pics from interior, engine and stuff like that, but I'd like to have few chassis pics. Thanks to Cato for some pics, but of course I'd like to see more of them, if you guys have pictures of Cobra chassis. And Cato, can you fix those pictures, so they can be seen again. I copied them to my computer, but I don't have them anymore when my reference-folder got bit of damage.... I'd like to copy them again. If it's not too big thing. I removed those Revell-Monogram- markings from the chassis plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 Well, I tried that interior flocking... First I masked that place, where shifter comes, and then I started spraying some matt black, straight from spray can. Well, here's the result. I'm happy, I bought some MR Muscle to remove paint, this is going right now there, maybe tomorrow I can paint it again, if everything goes alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Interior is now in MR Muscle. I got the chrome plating stripped off from the wheels and intake manifold and that part which goes around the carburetor. Carburetor isn't ready yet, but I hope it will be without paint and chrome plating soon. Thanks for looking, comments are welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stulee11 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 what was the name of the blue you used to paint the car as i realliy like it and would like to get some for a future build of mine ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) what was the name of the blue you used to paint the car as i realliy like it and would like to get some for a future build of mine ??? You mean that Street Cobra? It's bought from local auto parts dealer (Biltema). Biltema has Hobby paints, and that is Hobby paint and then they have "car colors". They are That store has everything you don't need... But those paints are pretty good. Well, some of them. That blue metallic paint is good quality, and red and gold are good ones too. I have tried some others too, but they were really bad. Most of the people are saying, those paints are bad, and I'll say that Metallic Blue, Gloss red and gold HOBBY PAINTS are good quality, but other ones, I've tried are really bad. It's good to spray clear on those parts, Cobra has no clear, but it's not bad idea... If you use clear, use Biltema's clear for hobby paints!!! Otherwise paintjob will go wrong, I think. You must be VERY careful with those paints, but it's possible to paint good paintjob. Maybe there's no Biltema in USA.. But many other paint makes are close to that color, I believe. They might be better quality too. Maston has Metallic blue, and that's quite good, I think. It's bit lighter blue. Oh yes, I can post a picture of that spray can, if I find it anymore... Hope this helps. Edited October 17, 2011 by W-409 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stulee11 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 yeah that did m8 thanks and can't wait to see more of these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Niko, I'm sorry but I've forgotten which ones I gave you. Just make a list of what you'd like to see and I'll put them together for you. BTW, the wheels you have are replica Trigo wheels. Original Halibrands have the stems in the face, not between the spokes. See mine: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Well, actually only pics, I need right now are from the chassis. You posted also one picture from the batteries behind the seat so I'd like to see that one too. I think, I can get going with them. And those wheels are close enough, I think... Modification on them would be too difficult for me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Looking good. I like the way this kit builds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Sorry Niko-Having trouble uploading-will try multiple posts: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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