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Building Monogram's Street and Revell's Racing Version of Shelby Cobra.


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#81 W-409

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 08:22 AM

THANKS!!! Those pictures are great, and they help me very much. I have no questions right now, but let's see when I can get started with the chassis. It's all black, Ok, that's good to know and see. Thanks again!

#82 Cato

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 10:33 AM

Keep us posted Niko.

#83 W-409

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 09:15 PM

Thanks, Cato and here we go, little update. But I had some problems with the network connections after thunderstorm on thursday night, so I couldn't post this update earlier. Anyway, the interior was without paint, so I painted it with Revell's flat black and hopefully today I can put some flocking there. I'm going to paint some chassis parts today also.

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#84 W-409

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 03:38 AM

Here we go again.... I worked with the wheels now, I opened those holes, some of them were bit rough, now they are better. I painted those wheels with two colors, Humbroll's Polished Aluminium, and that center part is painted Humbroll's enamel, number 53. I tried replicating magnesium, I think they are pretty good, but what you think, maybe I should do something better? I did little mock up for the wheels, but tires need still some work. And I painted the transmission too. I'm not sure about the valve covers yet. What do you guys think, should I strip the chrome and paint off and paint them polished aluminium, and then some black wash, or if I just leave them like that?

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#85 Cato

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 04:10 AM

Those covers were cast aluminum which was left as dull cast or polished by fussy owners. You can leave it if you like the polished look. You can very lightly and evenly scuff that with oooo steel wool which gives them a toned-down effect.

#86 W-409

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 08:24 PM

Thanks, Cato! I'll strip the chrome and paint off, then I will paint them... Bit black wash maybe after that, let's see. But I just want them to be more realistic, and I think, no one has polished them on this car. Thanks.

#87 yenkonut

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 07:32 PM

hey niko i have a question what is the color you painted the cobra i like it and wanna either try and get it color matched or find it in my area thanks

#88 W-409

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 07:21 AM

Thanks, Ryan, and this is straight copy from page four. :lol:

You mean that Street Cobra? It's bought from local auto parts dealer (Biltema). Biltema has Hobby paints, and that is Hobby paint and then they have "car colors". They are That store has everything you don't need... But those paints are pretty good. Well, some of them. That blue metallic paint is good quality, and red and gold are good ones too. I have tried some others too, but they were really bad. Most of the people are saying, those paints are bad, and I'll say that Metallic Blue, Gloss red and gold HOBBY PAINTS are good quality, but other ones, I've tried are really bad. It's good to spray clear on those parts, Cobra has no clear, but it's not bad idea... If you use clear, use Biltema's clear for hobby paints!!! Otherwise paintjob will go wrong, I think. You must be VERY careful with those paints, but it's possible to paint good paintjob.

Maybe there's no Biltema in USA.. :lol: But many other paint makes are close to that color, I believe. They might be better quality too. Maston has Metallic blue, and that's quite good, I think. It's bit lighter blue.

Hope it helps.

#89 Cato

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 07:49 AM

Niko,
Here are those covers in polished form:
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#90 W-409

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 08:21 AM

Thanks again, Cato!!! Well, those look so good that I'm going to change my plans. I don't strip the chrome, I will paint those black parts from valve covers with silver, and then they are looking like polished, I think.... B)

Little update also. Intake manifold is glued on its place, I painted it with polished aluminium. It looks just better than somekind of "gun metal".... And oil pan is glued, I left it chromed, just giving bit of different look, there are coming so much silver parts, and black oil pan wouldn't look good either. Also I have carburetor ready for paint. And after I have painted it, then I'll detail it a little. I already drilled holes for it, but they are going to be under the air cleaner in finished model.

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#91 Cato

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 09:13 AM

Here's what you're shooting for:
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That Aviad oill pan is dull silver color-it's cad plated steel.

#92 bigphoto

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 12:12 PM

Here's what you're shooting for:
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That Aviad oill pan is dull silver color-it's cad plated steel.


Thats kind of a rough looking engine!! I like it it looks well used!

#93 Cato

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 12:54 PM


Thats kind of a rough looking engine!! I like it it looks well used!

Un-restored small block car.

#94 speedy5963

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 05:16 PM

Looking good!

#95 W-409

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 08:02 AM

Thanks, Cato, that picture is great and helps alot. This kit has that part around the carburetor, should I drill holes for carburetor linkages etc.? Race Cobras had that part, I think, but I'm not sure... As in this picture.

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#96 Cato

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 09:14 AM

Your choice Niko. Competition and S/C cars had them, not street cars. However many, many owners of replicas and even some restored originals have them-they just love the race look. They are called 'turkey pans' and they keep heat from around the carb and seal the carb to the open hood scoop.
In the photo you sent, they have small holes on the passenger side for idle mixture screw adjustment, bigger holes below that for the f/r fuel lines and on the driver side they have holes for the throttle linkage. They have 4 small holes on the front and rear for removing the fuel bowl screws but it's easier to remove the whole carb than work on it in the pan. They don't all have the lip around the top.
If you want to use one, I suggest you easily make one out of .005" baking pan aluminum. It's much more to scale than the thick part you get in kits. That will make it 1/8" thick in 1:1 (they were .0625") but still much better than the kit part.
Here's the one I made for my 1/12 GT 40-it's exactly right in this scale:
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#97 MarkJ

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 10:50 AM

Great job, Niko.

#98 W-409

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 05:36 AM

Thanks again, Cato and Mark!
Cato: I'll build one from aluminium, as suggested. ;) I want to get this one realistic, and without your informations, huge thanks from them! I'll continue this one soon, but I'm having two other projects to finish soon for a model car contest, they will be first on line, and then I continue this one.

#99 Cato

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Posted 27 October 2011 - 06:01 AM

My pleasure Niko. Keep working.

#100 W-409

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Posted 30 October 2011 - 09:33 AM

Here are two pictures... I installed the valve covers, and I painted some silver on them to give more realistic look. I'm going to add the carburetor next and then I must build that "Turkey pan" from aluminium and stuff like that... ;)

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