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1/16 Scale Army Vega Funny Car - Updated 10/11/2014

Don Prudhomme Army Vega Funny Car

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#3021 Mooneyzs

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 09:26 AM

Awwwwrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrright!    Back to the bench! 

 

 

Way to go, Chris.  Get right back after that bad boy.   Can't wait to see this one evolve into table-candy!   B) 

 

 

Thank you Danno..... You know it will get done this year. I am gonna be busting my butt on this one for the next few months  :D



#3022 Davewilly

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 09:47 AM

Bummer Chris on the mid plate....The motor looks as square as can be...maybe the vertical frame members the plate has its tabs on dont measure the same distance on each side from the front of the frame rails or something?    Not that I know anything about using a scale or ruler! free hand that is...in cad I am pretty sure of my measuring skills though ....computers never wrong!



#3023 Prostreet

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 12:20 PM

nice to see you back on this Chris, Sucks about the engine being off. Best bet at this point i would think is adding styrene to the back of the block. No one will ever know.



#3024 GoatGuy

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 12:56 PM

Could be a little bit of both. If the plate is off a hair and the engine is off another hair, it adds up at one spot. I agree with Joe, just add a bit to the block.



#3025 F/CNUT

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 01:59 PM

I have been looking at your pictures and I had a thought. Could it be that the plate should be installed at the front instead of behind where you have it now. Just thought considering you messed around with engine in while.



#3026 Mooneyzs

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 03:09 PM

Dave... Yeah little bit of a bummer but I already knew I was going be reworking the Mid-Plate anyway. I am going to look at a couple other options as to reworking it. I will unbolt it in a few and check the tabs and measure the distance. I am also debating on maybe switching out the simulated bolts on the front motor mounts which are a little smaller size and maybe using a .8mm threaded bolt to see if that will help keep the fronts straight and sturdy because what I have now is somewhat loose and the fronts can shift just a little bit.

 

Joe... yeah good thing I decided to really check it out. well I knew it was kind of off because before when I have mocked up the tranny and  had it all in the chassis I had to work it a little (not much to make the front plates sit where they were supposed to. I will get it correct. I did think about adding to the back of the block but was trying to avoid repainting the block...hahaha But I will do what I have too. maybe I can just blend that area in.

 

Dave. you are so correct about that. I could of had a brain fart when I originally set things up and I didn't catch it then. All I know is for all of my fuyure builds I know a few areas I will make sure and focus on so this doesn't happen again....haha liek getting the rear end, tranny, driveshaft and engine lines up. mainly the engine and rearend lined up with a straight rod or tube how they do it on the real ones. the way I look at it, I have learned so many little things from this build that I will do things different on another one.

 

Steve... You know that is a great idea. I will be honest I didn't think of that. I will have to mount it to the other side and see if it would work that way. It would make the gap less and maybe I could sand a little off the the back of the block on the one side if needed but I have a funny feeling either way I will need to add a shim piece to make it right but the time to do it is now to get it correct.



#3027 mr68gts

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 05:58 PM

Chris, have you measured the block to make sure its square at the bell housing area?
Probably the easiest fix is to do the block but with the mid plate being off it may cause other complications with tin work and such. With the body pivoted up it won't be noticable but with the body on the stand, anyone can look directly down from the top and see it. Provided they're looking that close which any judge most likely will. Bad thing is the frame is already painted and cleared. Wonder if anyone would notice the tabs on one side being behind the plate vs in front on the other.......

#3028 Mooneyzs

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 04:02 AM

Paul... I actually measured the block this morning and the block seems fairly straight maybe off by a 1/64 or so. I did it real quick with my metal ruler on the 1/32 markings. I will double check it again when I get home frim work this afternoon. After that I measured the tabs on the top chassis tube and all 4 of those seem pretty consistant from the front of the chassis, as well as the distace between the tabs. Then I looked at the tabs that mount on the lower portion of the chassis for the mid-plate and that looks where maybe its a tad off. Tonight when I get home from work I am going to mount the mid plate to the opposite side of the tabs to see what it does and how it looks.

Currently the front motor mounts mount to those front tabs towards the front of the car and the mid plate mount to the aft of the back mounting tabs. I don't know if there is a right or wrong way for the tabs on ther rear to be in front or behind the mid plate. I did change the way my front motor mounts bold to the front of the block. Before i was using simulated hardware where the bolt just pushed in (and would be glued it on final mock up) which made those front mounts not quite so stiff. I drilled them out a tad and threaded them with scale hardwares .8mm threaded bolts. After doing that it made the front mounts much stronger. So with getting that set up first I can now make my way to the back of the block to fix the issue and gap there. It seems if I just flip the mid plate to the other side of the tabs that it would fix that gap. It is definitely a learning lesson that I will use for my next build and the type of hardware i will start out with to get everything lined up properly.

Sorry to be a little bit of a wind bag and talk your ear off on this..was just trying to explain the best I could so people would hopefully understand what I was talking about. :D

Edited by Mooneyzs, 17 April 2014 - 04:06 AM.


#3029 topher5150

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 10:18 AM

I'm typing this to find the end of this thread :D



#3030 mr68gts

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:14 AM

Chris, if I remember correctly the tabs are generally in back of the midplate. This may only be done for clearance however and may not be the standard. It was at least the way all the chassis I've had the pleasure of working on have been. I look at it as what ever works. What you might have to do is bolt the plate to the block then relocate the tabs accordingly. If the measurements are close at the top, I'm wondering how square the chassis is. I think they tapered down from the mid plate. I know the Lenco altered did and it was just a funny car chassis with a bantam body on it.

#3031 Mooneyzs

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 08:11 PM

Kristopher... Thank you for the kind words.

 

Paul... Thank you. I am pretty sure that you are correct that back in the day they probably made it work however the needed too. I did what you said about bolting the mid plate to the block to check things from there.



#3032 Mooneyzs

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 08:15 PM

I sat at the bench for a while tonight on how I was going to fit this issue I was having with the motor and mid-plate. Here are a few pics of what I did....

 

I had started out by removing the old simulated bolts and adding .8mm threaded bolts from Scale Hardware:

 

DP-Army-Vega5041-1_zps55c18610.jpg

 

 

 

Next I bolted the midplate up:

 

DP-Army-Vega5046-1_zpsb1775bb2.jpg

 

DP-Army-Vega5049-1_zpsbbe40e2f.jpg

 

 

 

Here is a shot of the front motor mount plates bolted in place:

 

DP-Army-Vega5061-1_zpsb19b0c34.jpg



#3033 Mooneyzs

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 08:19 PM

Here is a shot of the bolts mounting the front of the engine to the chassis

 

DP-Army-Vega5062-1_zpse68a711c.jpg

 

 

 

Here is how the mid-plate sits now although I need to so a little work to the back of the engine but it looks much better than before:

 

DP-Army-Vega5068-1_zps5cab4540.jpg

 

 

 

Here is a bottom view and you can see where a little of my issue is. I will end up sanding the back of the block down in hopes of making the plate perpendicular to the block:

 

DP-Army-Vega5075-1_zpsf7f9b81c.jpg



#3034 Magic Photos

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 03:47 AM

Looks great Chris glad you are back on this build, I will give you a call tonight.



#3035 gasser59

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 03:49 AM

I'm not sure what you did to fix the gap but it looks so much better. I noticed in the earlier photos, the back of the manifold was parallel to the back of the engine and neither one of those were perpendicular to the block. Is this still the case?

 

Rock on Chris.



#3036 Road Runner 79

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 04:32 AM

Looking great, Chris.



#3037 mr68gts

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 04:35 AM

In the last pic it looks a bit off but not anywhere like it was. If that's all its off I wouldn't worry about it. Just fill up the gap and go.

#3038 Danno

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 06:29 AM

Would a Slant 6 work better?     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:lol:



#3039 Mooneyzs

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 07:26 AM

Mike.... thank you and sounds good.

Brad.... Thank you my friend. I didnt do much other than bolting the mid-playe to the block properly and I also sanded the mid-plate down around the spot that it butts up to the tabs. I still have little more rework with it but am happy its turning out good other than it seems its really time consuming because i want to make it correct and fit right so I dont have any issues when it comes to tue final assembly.

Pat.... thank you very much

Paul.... you are right that it is still a little off on the bottom tabs.I thinj when I originally mounted the bittom tabs that I didnt have the mid plate bolted to the block solid and things moved when I glued them in place. I rook your advice last night and bolted the mid plate to the block so that it was secure to the block and went from there test fitting and checking the fitment. So now when youlook st it from the top it doesnt look like it is off. The bittom side is a little different the tabs are off a tad and I have an idea i may try or as you said makde a small spacer piece for it. I van remember how much my bottom chassis tin covers. If i am right i made it to go up to the mid plate. Things should work out pretty good I am thinking.


Danno... i was thinking more like a 4 Banger.... :D

#3040 Scott Colmer

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 10:36 AM

This is looking really nice. Glad to see you are back on it.

 

I feel your pain on getting the engine to line up. Seems like every time I assume something will fit later, it doesn't. 

 

Will the drive shaft still line up after the adjustments?

 

Scott