FULL BUILD REVIEW: 1/12 Revell Shelby Mustang GT500
Posted 23 September 2011 - 09:40 AM
where the aluminum mills in the 2011+ are generally done like this:
And there are enough similarities there that it doesn't look like too much of a fudge to paint the 2010 engine to 2011+ specs. Most obvious things I see are the disappearance of that little reservoir in front of the left head, and the addition of the firewall insulation. You'll find that insulation on the 2011+ GTs too.
Posted 23 September 2011 - 09:47 AM
Posted 25 September 2011 - 10:45 AM
Posted 25 September 2011 - 04:07 PM
Posted 30 September 2011 - 06:20 AM
Edited by gridjockey, 07 October 2011 - 10:02 AM.
Posted 02 October 2011 - 04:30 PM
i was looking around for some aftermarket wheels for this kit and found out that they guy over at ebay who sells the torque thruster american racing rims in 1/8 scale plans to make up some resin wheels for this kit . the 19" torque thrusters for a steve mcqueen bullit build of this kit would sell like crazy.
I just got my kit Thursday, so I am going to get started on some wheels for this kit this week. I really like the two-piece construction of these wheels and we finally have some modern low-profile tires in 1/12 scale.
This kit "feels" an awful lot like Monogram's 1/12 '69 Camaro Z/28 kit, and that's a good thing.
Posted 17 December 2011 - 10:49 AM
Posted 25 December 2011 - 04:00 PM
I know I'm a bit late on this, but the info is good! The color used on the bottom of these Mustangs is olive green Ecoat. SEM sells a spray paint that is dead on for this color. http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=327 You can get this at any good automotive paint supply store (and their black is great for replacement panels). I will soon be carrying a rust color, so anyone who wants to go that route...
Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:02 AM
I tried placing an order on Revell's replacement parts site but it doesn't seem to have accepted my order for some reason, even though I received a confirmation email. Please Help!
Posted 19 May 2014 - 08:32 AM
How did you keep the decals from "silvering" on the flat paint of the interior?
Posted 20 May 2014 - 01:55 PM
Posted 20 May 2014 - 01:58 PM
Posted 21 May 2014 - 07:45 AM
Well. Not all of us -
but I thought this was Dave T's thread (least up till now), so "all" - ?
One thing to bear in mind is that every so often kit manufacturers mold like-colored elements of the 1:1 together, so it wasn't entirely unreasonable to suppose that the front of the blower might be silver/aluminum, since it's molded to the front engine cover iIrc.
As for the decals, the ones on mine were of a delicate sort. They tended to delaminate even under a few coats of clear when you pulled your masking medium off. But what they traded back was very thin and flexible carrier that responded well to setting solution; that took care of most of the silvering even on flat-finished pieces, and then the Mr Color flat overcoat I sprayed on the seats pretty much wiped out any remaining traces.
Edited by Chuck Kourouklis, 21 May 2014 - 07:48 AM.
Posted 21 May 2014 - 08:12 AM
Posted 21 May 2014 - 09:54 AM
Oh, no apologies necessary.
As I recall - been a while since I did this one, some 2 1/2 years - I believe there are some very faint raised guide lines to indicate where to place the decals. As for fully embossed detail or a difference in texture, though, pretty sure there's nothing molded to the plastic.
Now I'm not certain of the texture differences as they apply to same-color stripes, but a trick I tried to simulate the alcantara/suede-ish patches was to mask off the seats and steering wheel and shoot gray Testors "fabric" lacquer as a base to add some texture in those strategic places. You might experiment a bit with that on some scrap parts, maybe sand it down some, compare it with bare plastic or primers under your color coat of choice to see what subtle effects you might find, and there you might discover an approach for your stripes.
Posted 21 May 2014 - 02:06 PM
Posted 21 May 2014 - 02:25 PM
WOW, okay. Tricky one to crack there.
My single best guess is to find a way to get light gray dots printed on clear decal film, 'cause there'll be hell to pay trying to capture that actual perforated texture to a convincing scale effect, far as I can figure. I'm wondering if playing with periods on a word processing program then changing the color to as light a gray as you can, testing it out on paper, then printing it to the decal stock and sealing it might do the trick.
Otherwise, the best cheat may be to paint those perforated sections in a coarse dark metallic shade close to the black of the seat.
Edited by Chuck Kourouklis, 21 May 2014 - 02:26 PM.
Posted 21 May 2014 - 02:34 PM
Posted 21 May 2014 - 02:51 PM
Doesn't have upholstery seams for the stripes molded in as I remember. Just very fine raised lines to help locate the decals, I think, and while those might help for paint masking, the stitching will be a trick in itself.