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FULL BUILD REVIEW: 1/12 Revell Shelby Mustang GT500


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Well. Not all of us -

IMGP2338-vi.jpg

but I thought this was Dave T's thread (least up till now), so "all" - ?

One thing to bear in mind is that every so often kit manufacturers mold like-colored elements of the 1:1 together, so it wasn't entirely unreasonable to suppose that the front of the blower might be silver/aluminum, since it's molded to the front engine cover iIrc.

As for the decals, the ones on mine were of a delicate sort. They tended to delaminate even under a few coats of clear when you pulled your masking medium off. But what they traded back was very thin and flexible carrier that responded well to setting solution; that took care of most of the silvering even on flat-finished pieces, and then the Mr Color flat overcoat I sprayed on the seats pretty much wiped out any remaining traces.

Edited by Chuck Kourouklis
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Sorry chuck. Yours turned out great. I'm not sure why they molded the snout into the front cover. Guessing for positive placement of all parts. May I ask if the seats have the embossing where the stripes go? On black stripe cars ( like mine) the stitching is on the seats so there are still stripes in the seats just that they blend in

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Oh, no apologies necessary. B)

As I recall - been a while since I did this one, some 2 1/2 years - I believe there are some very faint raised guide lines to indicate where to place the decals. As for fully embossed detail or a difference in texture, though, pretty sure there's nothing molded to the plastic.

Now I'm not certain of the texture differences as they apply to same-color stripes, but a trick I tried to simulate the alcantara/suede-ish patches was to mask off the seats and steering wheel and shoot gray Testors "fabric" lacquer as a base to add some texture in those strategic places. You might experiment a bit with that on some scrap parts, maybe sand it down some, compare it with bare plastic or primers under your color coat of choice to see what subtle effects you might find, and there you might discover an approach for your stripes.

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WOW, okay. Tricky one to crack there.

My single best guess is to find a way to get light gray dots printed on clear decal film, 'cause there'll be hell to pay trying to capture that actual perforated texture to a convincing scale effect, far as I can figure. I'm wondering if playing with periods on a word processing program then changing the color to as light a gray as you can, testing it out on paper, then printing it to the decal stock and sealing it might do the trick.

Otherwise, the best cheat may be to paint those perforated sections in a coarse dark metallic shade close to the black of the seat.

Edited by Chuck Kourouklis
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Yeah it would be tricky. The flash was on as it's in the garage so they blend in pretty good. What I was really trying to capture is where the stripes are. Does the kit have those lines molded in? Then there is the obstacle of making the glass roof...

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Thanks for the info. I have not picked up the kit yet but I will figure something out for the seats. I think it can be done realistically with different textures like you suggested. There are actually a ton of small changes to make the 10 into a 13/14 but I think I can do it and I will maybe have the conversion parts cast if anyone is wanting them. I wonder if they will re tool this to do a boss 302?...

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  • 1 year later...

I am currently working on this model.

hoping for some assistance.

How to paint the glass black out around the edges on the inside of the glass and attach without messing the paint?

The front and rear glass panels are the down fall of my modelling.

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I am currently working on this model.

hoping for some assistance.

How to paint the glass black out around the edges on the inside of the glass and attach without messing the paint?

The front and rear glass panels are the down fall of my modelling.

art-education-permanent-markers-1333733-

Use a chisel-tip Sharpie. Attach with white glue (PVA).

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art-education-permanent-markers-1333733-

Use a chisel-tip Sharpie. Attach with white glue (PVA).

Agreed. Make one pass. It will need another, but wait a minute or two before going over it again, or it will just push around the wet ink on there. 2-3 coats should do it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A question for those building this kit or have built it.

I am thinking about blocking in the rear windows to give a more fastback look.

Has anyone else done it yet or what are peoples thoughts on it.

Im going for a bright orange and black scheme. With black wheels.

This has been a great feed for engine and chassis details.

Thanks all

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  • 1 year later...

Hello Sir;

I can not get Model master's grabber blue near by and am planning to use Tamiya or gunze paint instead.

Could someone suggest me the closest color match of grabber blue form these two paints? I am looking at sky blue, need your input for better color match.

 

Thanks 

Philip Chen, Taiwan

 

 

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