15 replies to this topic

[Mr. Moparman]

Does anybody know how much his decals are? I might have to buy a set.

[Nick Winter]

I've bought many a set of Keiths decals, they've always been around $10 with shipping for a set.

some advice, his decals are beyond nice, but they are very thin, so you are going to want to be very careful working with them.

Nick

[Drake69]

Liquid Decal Film. Use that before anything else touches the sheet. It will thicken and protect the decals with an added layer of film, allowing you to position the decal exactly where you want it without it fracturing into a million pieces. You will need to trim the decal paper as close to the decal as possible before dipping it in water, but that's not a big deal. Micro Set can be used afterwards to help set the decal in place, beforehand you would be taking an awful risk using it without LDF protecting them first.

[Tonioseven]

What they said!

[shucky]

What is the best product (liquid decal film) to spray over the Keith Marks decals? Any recommendations?

[Tonioseven]

Future perhaps?

[Drake69]

personally i wouldn't put anything over Keith's decals until after they were in place and on the car. they are very thin which is one of the things that makes them so good to begin with. does it make them a little more of a challenge to apply? sure it does, but with a much better end result where you don't have a noticeable and visable film edge to contend with on the finished model.

my advice with Keith's decals is to be careful and if you are really concerned, get a second back-up set just in case you mess something up.

If done right, you never see the edges tho....



...and for the benefit of non-disintegration, I'd prefer not to waste money on extra decals unless I had a use for 'em.

Not arguing, I just think it's a safer road to go by.

[shucky]

If done right, you never see the edges tho....



...and for the benefit of non-disintegration, I'd prefer not to waste money on extra decals unless I had a use for 'em.

Not arguing, I just think it's a safer road to go by.

Thats all fine and good by you haven't told us what YOU are using as liquid decal film overcoat to "do it right."

[mrmike]

I think it is best that you contact Keith and ask for his price and shipping info.
mofobow@hotmail.com

[shucky]

Mike, I have his price and shipping info. I was asking for a recommendation on the decal film overcoat being used. Dave Z. thanks for your reply I'm going to order some up and play around with them.

[Drake69]

Thats all fine and good by you haven't told us what YOU are using as liquid decal film overcoat to "do it right."

Future. Never had a problem, and I either brush it on or dip the whole body in it.

[Drake69]

so Robert, you are saying that you overcoat the decals with future after they are applied to the model?

Of course. Once the decals have been on for at least 24 hours I'll either brush Future over them (if I have flat paint on the car and don't want a glossy look), or I'll dip the whole body in Future and allow it to dry in its box overnight. It seals the decals completely, and after everything is dry I can touch the decal and it won't slide, tear, or anything.

[Drake69]

And here is a prime example of what Future can do....

Picture of the General Lee I just did. BMF had been applied and then dipped in Future, dried for 12 hours....



First layer of Hazzardous Decals (all white backgrounds) placed on car, dried for 24 hours, then car dipped again in Future and dried 12 hours...



Last layer of decals applied overtop white decals, dried another 24 hours, then dipped in Future again and dried overnight...



These decals aren't going anywhere.

[Drake69]

Yup, I agree completely. For any aftermarket or MPC/AMT decals I've been recommending LDF before they go on the car. I know that some waxes like you mentioned have trouble with them, but the fragility of those types of decals make for really bad issues when trying to apply them on a car without any protection. Even when soaking the decal for 30 seconds you still have to manipulate the decal off the sheet onto a wetted area, then try and position the decal if the first attempt goes awry with moistened fingers (or other tools). Liquid Decal Film gives the decal that extra layer of protection so that it won't splinter and disintegrate from all the water contact.

MIResins had asked about Keith Marks decals. Nick chimed in on how fragile they were. I mentioned LDF to protect them. Shucky talked about spraying overtop KM decals. You mentioned you don't like the film edge left behind when using LDF. Tonio mentioned Future, and I said that if the decals were trimmed properly there would be no edge.

I think something got lost in translation somewhere here, as we are talking about two different things. First off, you never use LDF while the decal is already on the model... PERIOD. LDF is alcohol based and will do terribly nasty things to your paint job. LDF is only used on the decal SHEET to protect the decals themselves. Future can be used after the decals are on and drying to seal everything up.

Edited by Drake69, 11 August 2011 - 07:04 PM.

[scalenut]

The alps decals use a heated wax-like ink, it is very easy to scratch or damage, LDF is a good idea while still on the sheet.

[bigphoto]

What is the best product (liquid decal film) to spray over the Keith Marks decals? Any recommendations?

Microscale liquid decal film. Check with you LHS and ask for it.

BTW it is not a spray