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1/16th 57 Chevy Turbo ProMod (03-14-13) Finished Bull-Horns with V-band clamps


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#641 vintagedragfan

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 02:14 AM

I think I would forget about the container thing just in case, lol were you able to get the decals off?

#642 Prostreet

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 05:45 AM

Will try tonight after work, there sealed in clear, would hot water work? Would that effect the CA?

#643 eviltwincustoms

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 12:22 PM

Joe, if you have already cleared your tubs and the polyurethane has hardened on top, the decals are not coming off with Hot Water. That is like a hard candy coating that will only come off with a lacquer thinner or some sort of solvent.

I have never tried it and not sure if it will work, but since it is a much smaller part then 1/10th scale.. that I use to work with. Try the Purple Power, based on another RC Car forum I use to be on all the time... They are saying it will not affect your CA Glue at all, so they shouldn't fall apart on you.

So you should be safe, I can't say for sure as I have never tried it. :D

Edited by eviltwincustoms, 09 November 2012 - 12:27 PM.


#644 Prostreet

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 01:40 PM

I tried the purple stuff before on a car body and it worked pretty good, I did try it on laquer before and it doesn't work that great and these are cleared in laquer. I was thinking about trying to sand them. never thought this would happen from them being in a container. learned the hard way lol.

#645 tyrone

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 02:23 PM

Dang Joe thats a bummer.... I don't know of any suggestions for you... but I know you'll bounce back....

#646 vintagedragfan

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 04:09 AM

hey Joe, I figured hot water would be the least damaging thing to try, hoping it would wick under the clear and loosen the decal itself, I figured it was worth a shot, you can always try a more aggressive approach, is it possible to decal over what you have with out removing it? you won't see much of the tubs when the car is complete

#647 Prostreet

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 04:40 PM

Bill, I sanded the tubs down smooth and redecaled one and so far it looks better than the original. i was talking to Dave through emails and he said the same thing , best to go over them. Now the question is what clear to use.?

#648 vintagedragfan

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 02:23 AM

urathane clear usually isn't very aggressive if you can use something like that, with a fast catalyst to where it will cure as quick as possible

#649 Mooneyzs

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 06:17 AM

Joe... sorry to hear about the rear tubs with the decal and clear. AS Bill mentioned I personally use Urathane clears on my builds and never had had trouble with the clear. I mist the first two coats on then heavier with the next two.

#650 Prostreet

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:35 AM

What clear are you guys using ? I'm debating using the model masters again, I assume the urathane is 2 part for airbrush, is so what mixture?

#651 vintagedragfan

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 01:52 PM

I use DuPont chromasystem B/C with 7900 clear , and its 2 part, with a 3 to 1 ratio, I think you can get it in quarts, I have never had (the clear) give me any trouble with being too aggressive, and I been spraying paint about 30 years, man that makes me sound old :o

#652 eviltwincustoms

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 04:42 PM

I use DuPont chromasystem B/C with 7900 clear , and its 2 part, with a 3 to 1 ratio, I think you can get it in quarts, I have never had (the clear) give me any trouble with being too aggressive, and I been spraying paint about 30 years, man that makes me sound old :o


Man Bill.... That makes you almost as old as dirt! J/K! :)

#653 Prostreet

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 05:51 PM

Have the rear and shocks finished. Did the housing in a silver, For the brakes i used a set of rotors i got off Jim(microNitro) they are aluminum and i glued some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to them to simulate carbon rotors. i added a set of Lamb brakes i had Jim machine up for me, also added the line from the lube pump to the pinion and ring gear, used various RB motion fittings and bolts. I also added some protech steel braided lines and turned down the oil cap on the lathe and hit it with some clear red, after tommarrow i have the next 4 days off for thanksgiving so i hope to have the whole backend of the car together. The shocks are from micronitro, i added bump stops and painted the springs red. Sorry my pictures suck i'm hit or miss getting decent pictures with the Iphone.

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#654 comp1839

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 11:08 PM

incredible workmanship, joe. can't wait to see the rearend hung.

#655 tyrone

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 03:41 AM

Joe.... my man that rear end looks great.... Keep it going....

#656 futurattraction

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:58 AM

I'm noting that everyone is cautious about how they describe your rear end, LOL. And I will, too... You've done a fantastic job in assembling it - it looks super. Your coil-overs are a work of art. Keep up the awesome work, Joe!

Edited by futurattraction, 21 November 2012 - 05:03 AM.


#657 Prostreet

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 07:38 AM

Thx. Guys, Scott, Jim made the shocks. I added the springs and bump stops.

#658 vintagedragfan

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 03:41 AM

The rear end set up turned out beautiful Joe! man you are getting closer!

#659 Prostreet

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 05:30 PM

Thx. Bill, I was able to get the drive shaft built today. I used TDR u-joints and some styrene tube, I added some archer weld decals and primered it. i wanted to clear the primer so it was gloss but wasn't sure how the primer would react so i decided not to, I was very impressed with the archer weld decals, They work great and i can't wait to do my headers with them. Still have to hook up the rear brake lines and install the tubs, plan on doing that tommarrow after work, i was suppose to be off but can't pass up O.T. Still trying to decide if i want to display it with one of the rear wheels off or not.

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#660 1320wayne

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 06:11 PM

Superb detail work. Very impressive.