Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:53 PM
Posted 19 November 2011 - 05:37 PM
As always, looking forward to more, more, more...
Posted 21 November 2011 - 03:26 AM
Posted 27 November 2011 - 06:44 AM
Bernard, to get the edges of the fabric tucked away and achieve a clean edge, I cut the center panels out of the seat, upholstered and then re-inserted them.
Here's the passenger side inner panel. I researched the inner structure on the internet and tried to create a reasonably accurate panel. Since I only opened the drivers side door, the passenger side is one piece, front and rear.
Here's the panel mounted in position. I love these inner structure shots when the parts are in gray primer. Reminds me of working in a body shop.
Edited by Alyn, 27 November 2011 - 06:45 AM.
Posted 27 November 2011 - 06:54 AM
Window mechanism in place, but before the glass was added.
Finally, a shot of the seat and side panel in place. The lower frame of the seat will eventually get some bright foil applied.
On these older cars, I like to create the look of the top loader transmission. Instead of using the ball of the pin as a shift knob, I reverse it and create the shift lever socket. I haven't been able to find pins with silver balls in the smaller diameter. I paint the ball with Floquil bright silver. The crystal knob is two halves super glued together with a small section of brass at the base.
Posted 27 November 2011 - 10:22 AM
Way Cool Alyn!!
For sure Man!!
Thank You for sharing
Edited by rustybill1960, 27 November 2011 - 10:22 AM.
Posted 27 November 2011 - 08:22 PM
Oh, and careful with that C-series kit... those things are addictive.
Posted 28 November 2011 - 01:15 AM
The crystal knob is two halves super glued together with a small section of brass at the base.
Two halves of what?
Posted 28 November 2011 - 04:29 AM
Posted 28 November 2011 - 07:41 AM
Posted 28 November 2011 - 09:12 AM
Rob, I found some 1/2 round faux stick-on "Diamonds" at Michael s Craft store; a plastic card with rows of these clear gemstones with adhesive backs. I guessed that the glue was of the non-drying variety, so I cleaned it off with lacquer thinner and then glued two halves together with CA to form a spherical crystal. Then the small section of tube was glued on, again with CA. It took a few tries to get the two halves lined up before the glue set. The end result was the right size for a shift knob and somewhat unique. I've received about as many comments on the gearshift as rest of the interior.
Bernard, the accuracy of the cutouts were not that much of a concern. If I remember right, the cut was made with the back of an Xacto blade, same as cutting out a door or trunk panel. While the cut wasn't a big deal, the edge around the openings had to follow the bead at the edge and be very straight and precise. Files and sandpaper around small wooden blocks took care of that. To accommodate the thickness of the upholstery, the gap had to be generous at about 1/32 of an inch. Any less than this and the insert wouldn't fit back into the seat. Any more than 1/32" and the insert would be too loose. There was a lot more work involved in fitting and refitting the upholstered panel than in getting a straight cut.
As for the square holes, just build one of these:
... or do what I do; drill a small hole and file to shape with a square jewelers file. One thing about inner panels, square and other odd shaped holes are common place.
Posted 29 November 2011 - 04:06 AM
Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:17 PM
In my opinion, one of the more challenging things to do to an older hot rod is lowering the front end. On the 40 Ford, the axle runs under the frame rails with a transverse leaf spring used for support. The simplest thing to do is use a drop axle. The kit comes with one, but mine was donated to another project. I like to use the suicide front end; simple and it can easily drop the front end as much as you like. By design, the wheelbase ends up longer, but that's pretty commonplace with rat rods.
I added a straight front cross member, and then constructed the suicide mount from some "C" channel styrene. A slot was cut to mate up with the tab on top of the leaf spring. This provides a positive connection between the two parts.
Here's the finished mount in primer. I added some holes to accept some bolts.
Radius arms locate the axle to the frame. The arms consist of aluminum tube, slightly crushed to create an oval cross section. There's no particular reason to do this. I just thought the arms would look better this way. Holes were drilled along the length of the arms for character, and styrene was epoxied into the ends to facilitate mounting.At the frame end, I fabbed up some brackets using square styrene tube.
once again, in primer:
9" Ford rear axle as provided by the kit. This will be located with radius arms provided in the kit. I cut out the molded in gas tank to make it easier to paint. It was nestled down between the frame rails so deep that accurate masking would have been very difficult.
thanks for looking
Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:23 PM
Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:40 PM
I can't wait to see more.