Tools for Scribing Panel Lines or Cutting Out Doors
#21
Posted 18 November 2008 - 06:43 AM
#22
Posted 18 November 2008 - 02:33 PM
Seems to me the better way to go would be to remove the doors first, then chop the top and reattach it to the body, then trim the door's window frames to fit.
Either way will work, I guess.
#23
Posted 18 November 2008 - 07:44 PM
#24
Posted 26 November 2008 - 09:07 PM
these are the door hinges im talking about.
http://stores.homest...n-24/Detail.bok
and i want my doors like mr. big has on his chrysler 300.
THanks
-Jeff
#25
Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:35 AM
Good luck.
#26
Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:44 AM
#27
Posted 27 November 2008 - 08:51 PM
quick question though, how did you get the doors to stay up?
#28
Posted 28 November 2008 - 05:59 AM
yea i can wait to do it, but i think ima go with that other guy(peter?) idea, i have those little things.lol
quick question though, how did you get the doors to stay up?
Great questions
I hinge quite a few opening features on my projects, and have found that nearly each build presents it's own unique challanges, so I just keep designing and building until I get it right - HARDLY EVER THE FIRST TIME
Positioning the hood or trunk lid, for me is about the kind of tension I put on the bends of the brass, and not making it too tight. Practice is what it's all about, at least for me
Good Luck - Dave
Here's a couple I did. A couple of regular hinge's, and one with a double acting hinge, and the hoods are poseable in different positions.


#29
Posted 18 January 2009 - 05:40 PM
#30
Posted 19 January 2009 - 02:33 AM
Check out this post, he did it to the rear door. And Peter, do you any in depth photos of how you did it?He is a link to how I made Lambo doors, and the hinges for a Chrysler 300 Touring wagon I built last year. Follow the pictures and the text and you should get an idea of how to make it happen. http://www.modelcars...c touring wagon
Good luck.
#31
Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:33 PM
1. what do you guys use to glue the hinge to the plastic?
2. Dave is there anything you havent built?
3. what clay said.
#32
Posted 20 January 2009 - 02:37 AM
#33
Posted 20 January 2009 - 03:03 AM
That'll ensure the door opens and closes without scraping or binding.
If this is your first time doing this, don't get discouraged if it takes several tries to get it right. Opening and hinging doors can be more about trial and error than anything-----it might take a few models to get through before you feel you've got it down pat!
#34
Posted 01 October 2009 - 04:39 PM
#35
Posted 01 October 2009 - 09:33 PM
#36
Posted 02 October 2009 - 02:39 AM
I'm not crazy about that method just the same.
I'd much rather use the back of an Exacto blade, and grind out the back side of the doors around the door line to speed things up.
#37
Posted 02 October 2009 - 03:30 AM
1. Forget about it.
2. Get my knife and score the cut with the back side of the blade.
I know it's possible to cut plastic with thread, but why use such an awkward method when the old back side of the X-acto works so much better and easier? Like Bill said... when you're holding the ends of the thread with each hand, what's holding the model???
#38
Posted 02 October 2009 - 04:53 AM
#39
Posted 02 October 2009 - 06:58 AM
If you are not careful, the knife blade, regardless of front or back of the blade, can easily slip out of the pre-scribed door panel line and gouge the adjacent fender. I find that if I lightly scribe the door panel gap with this tool, and then follow with the knife blade my success rate of not gouging the fender is higher. Once the first few cuts are in, I than revert to the knife and sometimes in certain situations where there is a long straight stretch of door gap switch to an exacto saw blade held in a number 11 holder to speed things up.
The only way to get really good at the process is to practice it all the time. Before long you will become proficient at the technique and try to work it in to most builds. I think it is a great little feature to include, especially on a coupe where viewing the interior is difficult without opening door access.
Don’t be afraid of the process, it gets real easy over time and practice. Also, don't overly concern yourself with the size of the gap. If it is too big you can very easily glue a space extender ( a strip of styrene ) to the door, sand it smooth and no one will every know that it was installed.
P.S. I have never tried the thread method to open the doors because I only have two hands and that technique requires at least three hands or very nimble knees which I do not posses….apparently neither does Bill Geary.
#40
Posted 02 October 2009 - 09:30 AM












