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Scribing Panel Lines & Opening Doors


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#61 Gregg

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 08:35 AM

Scale Motorsport just sent their new "Tool Kit" which also has the super thin saw blades that Pete mentioned.
I like the blades, but I'm partial to the thread.
I can cut a door open in less than five minutes, and it is perfect.
It does take practice, but I love it.
Especially around the corners.
The clamps I used were from Micro-Mark, and they are great.
An extra pair of hands also works well, if you have them around, and can explain the precarious aspect of this technique...

#62 Harry P.

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 08:42 AM

An extra pair of hands also works well, if you have them around, and can explain the precarious aspect of this technique...


I don't have an extra pair of hands around, but I think I might have a few brains in bottles down in the lab. I'll check...

#63 GrandpaMcGurk

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Posted 14 October 2009 - 05:10 AM

Harry....that's what your feet are for :rolleyes: .

I don't do much in 1/25th but this is what I use for my stuff & some of the blades are downright tiny. Being it comes with 144 blades (24 each of 6 different sizes) it's a lot of bang for the buck. BTW...ModelExpo is right here in Florida and I've done biz with them for years...great people and servirce.

http://www.modelexpo...?ITEMNO=JS162TC

Edited by GrandpaMcGurk, 14 October 2009 - 05:13 AM.


#64 RodBurNeR

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 12:01 PM

I use photoetch saw blades by Model Car Garage. I don't cut doors open all the time, but I have done it several times and I can tell you that the blade is the exact width of the seams , so it's just right. You don't really have much shaping or sanding to do when it's over either. Not only that, you have a much smaller chance of slipping out of the groove like a #11 does and slicing through your other panels. On top of that, the saw blades don't get dull and don't snap off at the tip like an xacto blade does.
These blades are flexible and durable, if you bend a blade it easily bends back into shape and is ready to go again! These fit into the xacto handles like a blade does. They are just as thin as most of the photoetch parts you may already have....so take a look at them for thickness and see what I mean.

Posted Image

this took me about 30minutes including the interior tub.
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#65 Foxer

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 04:06 AM

I use photoetch saw blades by Model Car Garage.
Posted Image



I'm curious how these do on rounded corners. Are the tips on some small enough to go right around the curve?

#66 FujimiLover

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 04:13 AM

I'm going to guess that second one from the right just underneath the lettering is what you use for the curves? Look's like a curvy-type of tool.

#67 RodBurNeR

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Posted 25 October 2009 - 05:30 PM

I'm going to guess that second one from the right just underneath the lettering is what you use for the curves? Look's like a curvy-type of tool.



yep! The nice thing is you can use the tip of the blade too. The tip has teeth as well and can be used to go around corners either square or rounded.

#68 Foxer

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 02:37 AM

I've eyed those PE blades for years. Guess it's about time to try some. Thanks, Bob, for the the recommendation.

Edited by Foxer, 26 October 2009 - 02:38 AM.


#69 FUSIONBOY

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Posted 13 August 2010 - 07:37 PM

I would like to open up the tool compartment doors on an old petty race hauler i've been holding onto for all these years. the car carrier portion is built, but i would like to open the large doors under the tire carrier area and also the side doors down by the wheel area. what is the best/more realistic thing to use or build? I'm going to stretch out the Lindberg L-700 kit to place this on. I sure miss the days of open trailers and car haulers, I was heading home a few fridays ago and saw a friend pulling his dirt modified to the local track, just his pick up pulling an open trailer, I gawked like a 10 yr old till the light turned. Thanks for such a great forum Gregg!

#70 midwest 1953

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 02:00 PM

I believe this is what you want....

Posted Image

The hinge point is about 1/16-3/32 from the edge..basically I drilled a hole in the top and bottom of the door for a piece of 3/64 brass rod to extend from the holes about 3/32. on the top, I drilled a hole straight up into the body about 1/8th.
on the bottom, I cut a notch 3/16 wide, x 1/16 deep, starting at the edge of the door opening. I used a piece of plastic stripping to fill this hole.
I drilled a hole in the stripping to fit over the brass rod, then slid the upper pin in the upper hole, with the piece of stripping in place on the lower pin. this lower plug was then glued into place, and puttied over..

After you have cut your door out.. eyeball your hinge point carefully, so that when the pins are in place, the doors swing with out touching the opening... also.. before drilling holes, make sure the pins align, or the doors won't swing straight. drill the holes in the door edge first,install your pins, hold this up to the opening, to locate the top hole..

Hope this helps,
Jim A.

#71 FUSIONBOY

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 05:05 PM

Thanks guys,Jim that is exactly what i'm hopin to get mine to look like.
my Uncle used to use a hauler very simular in the midwest to haul his stocker to the local tracks and a couple of road trips also. I sure miss seeing those beast running down the road , car straped down and being able to see it. thanks diymirage and Jim for your help. Rick

#72 Len Woodruff

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 02:00 AM

Great info! I need to open the doors on a C600 Hauler myself.

:lol:

Edited by Len Woodruff, 31 August 2010 - 02:04 AM.


#73 Pro Wrench

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 07:58 PM

Just found this on youtube. Thought some might find it useful for things like cutting off tops to chop. I did a quick search and couldn't find where anyone else had posted it.

 



#74 greymack

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 03:50 AM

I think the best tools for scribing are shape hobby knife and masking tape thats all you need.



#75 Mooneyzs

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:04 AM

I personally use a bare metal foil scribing tool to scribe my door s and trunk lines. Or to even open those areas. It works great and I have had this tool for years. Not sire if they even make them anymore. I will try and post a pick of it. I have also used the back of an xacto blade bit i fint that the bare metal foing scriber works the best.

#76 Psychographic

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 04:58 AM

I have a BMF scriber and have tried using the back of the #11 exacto  blade. The scriber works great for straight lines, but I have a hard time doing small radius curves. The Exacto blade and I just don't get along at all, it never goes where I want it. I recently found a very inexpensive tool that is readily available, a straight pin. It cuts great and to me is very controllable, you just need to find one that isn't too soft as these will bend easily. Just drag it at about 30-45 degrees to the surface and it will cut through pretty quick and doesn't take out much material at all.


Edited by Psychographic, 07 May 2014 - 04:58 AM.


#77 disabled modeler

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 12:49 PM

I've always wished someone made a tool to re scribe or scribe window trim lines that is easy and almost un-fallible...for instance say you cut open a window in a panel and need to make the trim lines for the window.  



#78 Psychographic

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 01:13 PM

I've always wished someone made a tool to re scribe or scribe window trim lines that is easy and almost un-fallible...for instance say you cut open a window in a panel and need to make the trim lines for the window.  

What if you took a piece of brass stock and cut it like this.

 

 

                                   I           I

                                   I           I          

                                   I     __  I

                                   I    I    \/

                                   I__I

 

The leg to the left would ride along the edge of your opening, and the pointed part to the right could cut the groove.



#79 disabled modeler

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 01:33 PM

What if you took a piece of brass stock and cut it like this.

 

 

                                   I           I

                                   I           I          

                                   I     __  I

                                   I    I    \/

                                   I__I

 

The leg to the left would ride along the edge of your opening, and the pointed part to the right could cut the groove.

Good Idea David...I got to make me one of those since I am always converting 2 doors to 4 doors or wagons and restoring oldies.  Thanks!



#80 Mike Kucaba

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Posted 07 May 2014 - 03:36 PM

I've tried a plethora of scribers, picks etc. over the years. I still have not found a tool that does the curves of a door or trunk line great.

I think I'll give the thread method a try some day.

 

I'd also like to see a tool that would allow routing a channel for a window to set into so glass could be installed from the outside like a 1:1.