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Enamels WIN!


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#241 Junkman

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 04:29 AM

Despite the valiant efforts of Dr. Cranky and a few others, this thread still contains way too many words and too few pictures. I want to see some shiny colourful stuff, please.

Edited by Junkman, 21 June 2012 - 04:29 AM.


#242 CadillacPat

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Posted 22 June 2012 - 11:32 AM

this thread still contains way too many words and too few pictures.


Pictures are always a plus
But,
I'm one who enjoys the effort someone puts into a lengthy well written explanation.

CadillacPat

#243 Tony T

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 01:45 PM

Just read back through this thread...terrific content but too few pictures! :D

#244 LoneWolf15

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 03:09 PM

Just read back through this thread...terrific content but too few pictures! :D


T , once Doc gets settled back in , he might add some more for you ! Lol !

#245 cchapman195

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 05:16 AM

I am working on a few models that will be done within the next week. I will post some pics of shiny's for those that would like more pics.

#246 revshag

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 01:55 AM

I've used Donn's method and had great results. Here's a pic of my results. I used the aluminum metalizer for the primer and Valspar spray paint (decanted). I didn't clear coat or color sand.

Posted Image

Chris

PS I also won a small contest with this build thanks to Donn.

#247 scalenut

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 04:24 PM

wow nice job !
one question , is the aluminum base a must do for all colors with Donn's process ?
that's the only thing I still have to get.

#248 LoneWolf15

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 09:07 PM

No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors .

#249 Monty

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 07:45 AM

No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors .


Obviously it's hard to argue with your results, but I'm curious why you spray solid colors directly onto bare plastic instead of using a primer. If nothing else, primers have helped me spot body flaws I might've otherwise missed.

#250 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 07:56 AM

I will have some new eye candy of a sweet truck Donn is working on and just sent me pictures of soon. Stay tuned in.

Glad to see this thread is still alive and kicking.

#251 LoneWolf15

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 10:16 AM

Monty ,

Fair question , arguable answer to follow ! Lol ! The reason I don't use primer is due to my method of prepping the body . Simply put , I don't need it ! When you sand a body carefully , taking it all the way up to 12000 , it's a piece of glass when completed .

Using primer adds another layer or thickness to the body , possibly blurring out the body's detail . My method of prepping the body might be a bit unorthodox , but it does teach one to be focused and patient with the task at hand .

Oh , by the way , for those who insist that the paint won't stick to such a smooth surface ? Look around this thread , I think the results will speak for themselves . The smother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !

#252 Monty

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 07:53 PM

The smother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !


You're correct, surface prep is everything. That said, does all that polishing eliminate annoyances such as low spots? (Think late '60s/early '70s AMT kits).

#253 LoneWolf15

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 12:50 PM

The polishing doesn't eliminate the low spots but it does bring them to the forefront ! I usually start with 400 and lightly sand the entire body with it . The low spots now stick out like the proverbial sore thumb . The rest of the body is dulled down , the low spots are shiny .

As you indicated , alot of the 60 & 70 era cars had their issues with this . More often than not , I simply fill the low spot with super glue . Just before it's completely dry , I'll begin to sand it which allows the plastic dust to mix with the glue and forms a putty of sorts .

At times , I might have to add a tiny amount of glue again but patience is the key to proper prep . I believe Doc posted a photo of my Cobra gasser on this thread . All of the mounting holes for the lights and bumpers were filled in with this method on the Cobra . It won't shrink or reemerge after it's painted either , which is a big plus !

#254 LoneWolf15

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 01:09 PM

Oh , Monty ?

Don't tell anybody this . When I do primer , I use that stuff that everybody says never drys , you know , that Testors stuff ! Lol ! I can lay it down and be wetsanding it within 5 or 10 minutes , tops !

Fills in like a champ and wet sands to a glass like finish , no ghosting ! None !

#255 Monty

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 06:15 PM

Oh , Monty ?

Don't tell anybody this . When I do primer , I use that stuff that everybody says never drys , you know , that Testors stuff ! Lol ! I can lay it down and be wetsanding it within 5 or 10 minutes , tops !

Fills in like a champ and wet sands to a glass like finish , no ghosting ! None !


Now I know you're pulling my leg. Next you'll be telling us you've actually seen dry Testors Chrome Silver. J/K! Given your mastery of MM paints, I guess I shouldn't be surprised, but as you said above, there aren't many of us who are big fans of the stuff. I assume you reduce it with lacquer thinner too?

#256 LoneWolf15

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 06:38 PM

You know it ! Lol !

The same for the chrome silver ! Mastery ? Hardly ! I listened to an oldster , futzed with it and came up with a formula that worked , that's all !

Y'all need to relax and try it , it really is that easy ! As good of information that the Internet provides , Monty , it also provides the bad ! A whole lot is second hand plus knowledge , in other words , old wives tales . The enamels work , plain and simple , so do the primers ! Proof is in these pages , my friend !

#257 Miatatom

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 12:17 PM

I use 1:1 Enamel reducer instead of lacquer thinner. The paint dries very quickly using the reducer, about 10 minutes. Fast enough for me to handle the parts. I also reduce the mixture by one third paint and two thirds reducer. This way I can lower the air pressure to 15-18 psi.



Dan


Dan, what kind of enamel reducer do you use? I've heard that using real automotive chemicals isn't good because they are too "Hot" for the plastic.

#258 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 06:55 AM

Ok quick question. I shot a body with enamel clear yesterday and there is some orange peel, but it seems like if I sprayed any more on I would have started to lose my panel lines. Everything was set and prepped like it is on donns DVD. I was just wondering if there's something I can do to avoid this, it seems to happen every time I clear coat

#259 59 Impala

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:04 AM

Tom, I use the reducer from Napa and it is the medium dry reducer. I've not had any issues using the reducer with Testors paints. I use the 1/4 oz. bottles and thin them down with the reducer. I'll put about a 1/4 inch of paint in the bottle and the rest is reducer. Now, this is very thin and I usually spray a few light coats like Donn does. I spray with between 10 and 18 lbs. of air. I do spray continuously starting from the top and then the front, then back and last the sides and then go over the model the same way until it is covered. Then I'll let it dry. That's all that I do. Most of the time I will spray the clear over the model after it has dried. But there are some times that I don't spray any clear. Like, if I'm looking for the shine of the 50'and 60's. That's about it. :)

Rich, I use Future floor polish instead of enamel clear for my clear coats. Future is sold now as Pledge with Future shine I'm told and should be in any supper market or Wall Mart. :) Dan

#260 LoneWolf15

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:52 AM

Rich ,

Quick answer ...... Let it flashout , wetsand it smooth , polish it to a glass finish . Temperature and humidity can cause orange peel too . Be sure to mist coat your clear on just like your color application . As always , be patient !

It is natural to get excited when applying your clear , you start to see the shine and color really take shape . This is when you have to discipline yourself and not rush through the application ! Continue to mist coat until you have a uniform shine and overall smooth coverage . If you have a bit of orange peel after flashout , your polishing kit will take care of that right quick !