284 replies to this topic

[wisdonm]

Doc, do you decant 7480S to mix P-X in or does it dry too fast? If not 7480S, which clear do you mix P-X in?

[Dr. Cranky]

Don, I rattle can it all the way.

[wisdonm]

I'm confused. How do you rattle can Pearl-X ?

[Dr. Cranky]

No, I am talking about the clear I use with HOK. With enamel I just go with enamel clear, the Testor's brand.

[Junkman]

Despite the valiant efforts of Dr. Cranky and a few others, this thread still contains way too many words and too few pictures. I want to see some shiny colourful stuff, please.

Edited by Junkman, 21 June 2012 - 04:29 AM.

[CadillacPat]

this thread still contains way too many words and too few pictures.

Pictures are always a plus
But,
I'm one who enjoys the effort someone puts into a lengthy well written explanation.

CadillacPat

[Tony T]

Just read back through this thread...terrific content but too few pictures!

[LoneWolf15]

Just read back through this thread...terrific content but too few pictures!

T , once Doc gets settled back in , he might add some more for you ! Lol !

[cchapman195]

I am working on a few models that will be done within the next week. I will post some pics of shiny's for those that would like more pics.

[revshag]

I've used Donn's method and had great results. Here's a pic of my results. I used the aluminum metalizer for the primer and Valspar spray paint (decanted). I didn't clear coat or color sand.



Chris

PS I also won a small contest with this build thanks to Donn.

[scalenut]

wow nice job !
one question , is the aluminum base a must do for all colors with Donn's process ?
that's the only thing I still have to get.

[LoneWolf15]

No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors .

[Monty]

No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors .

Obviously it's hard to argue with your results, but I'm curious why you spray solid colors directly onto bare plastic instead of using a primer. If nothing else, primers have helped me spot body flaws I might've otherwise missed.

[Dr. Cranky]

I will have some new eye candy of a sweet truck Donn is working on and just sent me pictures of soon. Stay tuned in.

Glad to see this thread is still alive and kicking.

[LoneWolf15]

Monty ,

Fair question , arguable answer to follow ! Lol ! The reason I don't use primer is due to my method of prepping the body . Simply put , I don't need it ! When you sand a body carefully , taking it all the way up to 12000 , it's a piece of glass when completed .

Using primer adds another layer or thickness to the body , possibly blurring out the body's detail . My method of prepping the body might be a bit unorthodox , but it does teach one to be focused and patient with the task at hand .

Oh , by the way , for those who insist that the paint won't stick to such a smooth surface ? Look around this thread , I think the results will speak for themselves . The smother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !

[Monty]

The smother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !

You're correct, surface prep is everything. That said, does all that polishing eliminate annoyances such as low spots? (Think late '60s/early '70s AMT kits).

[LoneWolf15]

The polishing doesn't eliminate the low spots but it does bring them to the forefront ! I usually start with 400 and lightly sand the entire body with it . The low spots now stick out like the proverbial sore thumb . The rest of the body is dulled down , the low spots are shiny .

As you indicated , alot of the 60 & 70 era cars had their issues with this . More often than not , I simply fill the low spot with super glue . Just before it's completely dry , I'll begin to sand it which allows the plastic dust to mix with the glue and forms a putty of sorts .

At times , I might have to add a tiny amount of glue again but patience is the key to proper prep . I believe Doc posted a photo of my Cobra gasser on this thread . All of the mounting holes for the lights and bumpers were filled in with this method on the Cobra . It won't shrink or reemerge after it's painted either , which is a big plus !

[LoneWolf15]

Oh , Monty ?

Don't tell anybody this . When I do primer , I use that stuff that everybody says never drys , you know , that Testors stuff ! Lol ! I can lay it down and be wetsanding it within 5 or 10 minutes , tops !

Fills in like a champ and wet sands to a glass like finish , no ghosting ! None !

[Monty]

Oh , Monty ?

Don't tell anybody this . When I do primer , I use that stuff that everybody says never drys , you know , that Testors stuff ! Lol ! I can lay it down and be wetsanding it within 5 or 10 minutes , tops !

Fills in like a champ and wet sands to a glass like finish , no ghosting ! None !

Now I know you're pulling my leg. Next you'll be telling us you've actually seen dry Testors Chrome Silver. J/K! Given your mastery of MM paints, I guess I shouldn't be surprised, but as you said above, there aren't many of us who are big fans of the stuff. I assume you reduce it with lacquer thinner too?

[LoneWolf15]

You know it ! Lol !

The same for the chrome silver ! Mastery ? Hardly ! I listened to an oldster , futzed with it and came up with a formula that worked , that's all !

Y'all need to relax and try it , it really is that easy ! As good of information that the Internet provides , Monty , it also provides the bad ! A whole lot is second hand plus knowledge , in other words , old wives tales . The enamels work , plain and simple , so do the primers ! Proof is in these pages , my friend !