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Enamels WIN!


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#261 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:58 AM

I've never tried future I'll have to check it out. How does it spray on? Is it thin? The problem that I'm having is that I'm not getting enough clear down to get rid of the orange peel but at the same time if I keep coating I'm going to lose my panel lines. Maybe thinning it more would help?

#262 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 10:06 AM

Thank you guys for the input very much appreciated! Donn now that I think about it the humidity probably had something to do with it, it was pretty hot yesterday when I painted. I'm sure wet sanding will take it out it's not all that bad. I'll get a few pics up soon. Thanks again guys.

#263 LoneWolf15

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 10:07 AM

You have to wetsand the color coat before you apply your clear if you have orange peel in said color coat ! The smoother the surface to be painted , the smoother the finish !

#264 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 10:58 AM

The color coat came out glass smooth with no sanding. Sorry I should have worded my last post differently. It was really hot out when I clear coated. By the way I got all three of your DVDs last fall. Best purchase I ever made I learned a lot from them. Thanks again :)

#265 59 Impala

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 12:36 PM

Future is thin. It's ready to spray. You also can dip it or brush it on. If you make a mistake Windex will remove it, but be careful, Windex will also remove the paint if fresh. It happened to me just a couple of weeks ago and I learned the hard way. I had to strip the paint off of the car and now I have to repaint it. Bummer. Dan

P.S. After spraying Future I cleaned my spray gun with Windex to clean it out.

#266 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 01:01 PM

Thanks Dan I'm gonna have to check that out. Yea it always sucks when you screw up a paint job lol. Believe me I've messed up quite a few but oh well what can you do it happens.

#267 hooterville75

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 05:28 PM

Here's a new body painted . . . I am hoping this will be my first 62 Imp. finally finished . . .

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Doc:

Is this the body you used during your vid on how to use Novus ?

#268 hooterville75

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 05:40 PM

The heck with the photos, all the valuable information that's in this post has literally created me to obtain writers cramp and the need to purchase a new notebook for the work station ha ha. This is by far the post that had my attention from start to finish that I actually read EVERY post in the thread. So privaledged to be obtaining this valuable information from two of the best scale model builders in the World. (Not saying any of you others that posted in this thread are not of same quality as Doc and Donn) just that I haven't had the opportunity to talk with you as I have these two. Will be using Donn's method for the first time starting Monday. Can you say PUMPED and the amount of ideas that are flowing through my head of the What if's ha ha.

#269 Bluemiles22

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Posted 04 October 2012 - 03:05 AM

After the metalizer is sprayed what do you do to smooth it out? I tried wet sanding but it dulls it to a gray. Or should it just be left as is? I've had great results leaving it but there's always a very slight texture to it. Any suggestions?

#270 LoneWolf15

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Posted 04 October 2012 - 05:44 AM

Immediately spray your paint over the metallizer . The slight texture in no way affects the paint or the smoothness of it's surface .

I have experimented with buffing the metallizer with a piece of cotton t shirt before painting , found there was no real difference with the end results . One draw back was the possibility of leaving fiber on the surface which necessitated rewashing the body before painting .

#271 Bluemiles22

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Posted 04 October 2012 - 07:38 AM

Thanks for the info don. I've buffed the metalizer also but it didn't make a difference. I was just wondering if getting it smoother and brighter would bring a different result. Thanks again.

#272 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 02:22 AM

Ok here's a little trick I came across on accident. I was mixing some paints and was curious to see if I could make transparent candy colors with enamels. I took 1 jar of color, 1 jar of clear, and 1 jar of laquer thinner and so fr pretty happy with the results
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The 55 is pearl blue over silver and I also did the purple and blue over black, the red is over silver and another one over gold.

#273 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 02:46 AM

One more of the Chevy
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#274 wisdonm

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 02:48 AM

Are the flakes in the base coat or your mixture?

#275 Bluemiles22

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 02:55 AM

The flakes are in the paint already, purple pearl, blue pearl, and stop light red metallic were the colors used. I'm going to try straight colors next that have no flakes to see how it looks as I'm pretty sure candy colors are supposed to be non metallic

#276 Guest_G Holding_*

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 05:50 AM

mixing clear in with the color is a favorite blending trick in 1:1. by progressivly adding more clear vs color you can blend different panels together without repainting the whole vehicle. harder to do in scale, but the clear will make the color more "transparent"

#277 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 04:03 PM

Doc:

Is this the body you used during your vid on how to use Novus ?


Yes, it is.

#278 Jdurg

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 10:28 PM

Amazing work with the enamel paint guys. I just don't have the patience to wait for enamels to fully cure, and am also not very comfortable with the softness of enamel paints. Any time I've used them when building model cars, I always wind up with a fingerprint mark in them from handling the parts when I am applying detail work, or from assembling the body onto the chassis. I paint strictly with lacquer based products now as they dry super fast and I haven't had any issues at all with the lacquer eating the plastic as long as I put a good primer coat on.

Later today I will be able to put rubbing compound and then polishing compound on my '67 Vette body and get ready to do final assembly. (Once I figure out what to do for windshield/rear window glass as the clear plastic in the kit is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to thick and out of scale).

#279 CadillacPat

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 01:03 AM

Amazing work with the enamel paint guys. I just don't have the patience to wait for enamels to fully cure, and am also not very comfortable with the softness of enamel paints. Any time I've used them when building model cars, I always wind up with a fingerprint mark in them from handling the parts when I am applying detail work, or from assembling the body onto the chassis.
J, what kind of enamels are you having problems with? Soft Enamels???
Are you mixing your own paints and AirBRushing or using Rattlecans??
Have you tried better automotive grade urethane enamels?

CadillacPat


I paint strictly with lacquer based products now as they dry super fast and I haven't had any issues at all with the lacquer eating the plastic as long as I put a good primer coat on.

Later today I will be able to put rubbing compound and then polishing compound on my '67 Vette body and get ready to do final assembly. (Once I figure out what to do for windshield/rear window glass as the clear plastic in the kit is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to thick and out of scale).



#280 Jdurg

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 09:06 PM

The

J, what kind of enamels are you having problems with? Soft Enamels???
Are you mixing your own paints and AirBRushing or using Rattlecans??
Have you tried better automotive grade urethane enamels?

CadillacPat


The enamels I was using, back when I first started building model cars in the 1990's, were the Testors Model Master enamels. Didn't/don't have an airbrush so they were just applied with a good ol' rattlecan. I would let them "cure" for at least a week after applying the final color coat, yet I would still wind up with a noticeable fingerprint in the places where I held onto the body while joining it to the chassis, or while holding it to carefully detail parts of the exterior.

I've found that automotive grade enamels cure a bit harder, but I still end up with fingerprints or ding marks showing through after handling the parts for a while. (Mostly on the engines as I use the engine enamel paints to get the proper color).

As stated earlier, I now just use automotive touch-up lacquers from an online site that has every color for every make and model of car out there. I LOVE how quickly they dry, how hard they cure, and how amazing they look on the finished model.