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Enamels WIN!


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#21 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:35 AM

Greg, I have already seen it about a dozen times. I confess I have short term memory (not to mention I am also OCC) and I watch it before I do a paint job every time.

LOL, I meant, OCD . . . I guess OCC is OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVELY CORRODED! :lol:

#22 LoneWolf15

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:52 AM

I guess rust never does sleep , eh , Virgil ! Lol !

If you take notes and follow the method to the letter , it will become second nature . Consistent paint work will follow time and time again !

Greg ,

I only use the clear on the metallics and pearls , the standard colors polish out to a beautiful gloss all on their own . Can you use it ? , sure , I just don't find a need for it . The single most important thing aside from controlling the paint environment is following the prep procedures to the letter ! The steps that are laid out in the DVD are the guide lines that I follow each and every time I airbrush a body .

Virgil , a bit more thinner with the old standard Testor bottles ( 1/4 oz ) is a good thing , they are a bit thicker . By doing so with the 1/2 oz jars , you might have to add a few more mist coats to get the coverage and sheen that you are looking for .

#23 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:55 AM

Thanks, Donn. Yes, I've been adding a little extra thinner just to make it flow better.

Even though I am loving all this shiny paint, I still have RUST running in my blood. I just can't help it! :D

#24 simonr

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:09 AM

I have to confess, I haven't been an enamels adict, but, recently, I did a try for the first time ever to a Scalefinishes acrylic enamel gloss black, and it was real impressive the way it turned out. I don't have any lacquer painted model that has turned out like this one. I post it as soon as I finish it this weekend.


Simón P. Rivera Torres

#25 Gregg

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:27 AM

I have been using this combo for over 40 years...
Shooting on raw plastic rarely presents a problem, but recently some of the plastics from China have caused some minor crazing issues.
Tamiya Fine Primer works great as a barrier.
I don't use a dehydrator, but I do wait a week or sometimes more before working the paint job.

I thought you were 35?
hhhmmmm.....

#26 Michigan Madman

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:31 AM

I thought you were 35?
hhhmmmm.....

My guess? Reincarnation!

#27 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:36 AM

The other thing I've been looking into are these nail airbrush artists who work with lacquers too and they paint some amazing stuff on ladies' plastic nails. I've seen them buff the raw plastic to a shine, then paint, and clear without any problems . . . so there's something to be said about working with naked styrene . . .

#28 LoneWolf15

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:41 AM

I thought you were 35?
hhhmmmm.....


Tell him , Mark !

You are perpetually suspended right where you want to be ! Hmmm , I'm in my 6th childhood , that would put you in or around your 7th ?

#29 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:47 AM

I like that, instead of dog years we get clocked with styrene years! :lol:

#30 LoneWolf15

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:49 AM

Donn, I assume you're talking about a 2-to-1 thinning ratio for Testors bottle paints and not for decanted spray enamel, correct?


Yup ! ,

The bottles , decanted paint is already thinned , no need for it . On second thought , as thick as the Testors spray comes out of some of these cans , maybe a little thinner would help the situation ! Lol !



#31 Michigan Madman

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:58 AM

That's the worst thing about Testors enamels in the rattle can- it's like spraying paste.

#32 Scale-Master

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:59 AM

I thought you were 35?
hhhmmmm.....


Too funny, I have been airbrushing for over 43 (human) years.

#33 Kaleb

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:03 PM

Is it the .25 enamels or something else?

#34 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:25 PM

The other test I want to do is to use Testors clear over other brand of urethanes to see if it will give me the same amazing shine.

#35 Evil Appetite

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:36 PM

Donn, I used to email you quite a bit right after I got your Airbrushing DvD. You're super-accommodating and patient with your replies. There were a few questions I didn't ask because as I said, I was emailing you with a crapload of questions hehe One question I've always wanted to ask you about your Paashe. Do you open it up all the way when you shoot your paint? Halfway maybe? I used to use my Badger 200 but decided to buy an H5 as you suggested. When I'm painting with it it's barely open, so little in fact that I'd have to do 3-4 passes over the metalizer to see any color at all.

What about you Virgil? Are you using a Paasche? or your Iwata?

--- Mike

#36 Evil Appetite

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:37 PM

Yup ! ,

The bottles , decanted paint is already thinned , no need for it . On second thought , as thick as the Testors spray comes out of some of these cans , maybe a little thinner would help the situation ! Lol !


I've learned it's hit and miss with decanted paint, so it's best to thin a little every time. I think anyway

Edited by Evil Appetite, 29 November 2011 - 12:38 PM.


#37 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:49 PM

Mike, I am using my Iwata Eclipse which does a fine job, but I thin the paint a tad more than Donn probably has too with his AB.

I think for single color paint jobs the best bet is to go with an airbrush hat will open up and lay down a smooth coat.

Believe it or not, I've been thinking of getting the exact same AB Donn uses because I love the smooth way it works for him in the DVD.

#38 LoneWolf15

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:49 PM

Mike ,

You need to open it up ! The very tip of the needle is barely visible on mine . I test it first on newspaper to test the pattern , I open it until it spits , then I slowly close it until I'm getting a nice , wide fan .

As for the emails , not a problem ! If I charged $5 for every one I answer , I'd never work another day in my life ! Lol !

#39 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:54 PM

Mike, the reason why I like my Eclipse is that it's a fine AB for doing graphics using urethanes . . . and the lacquer makes the paint dry on the spot.

The single paint jobs, like those Donn does, are really addictive in particular working with street machines, gassers, customs, etc . . .

I'm the first to believe that there's an airbrush for different jobs and styles out here.

#40 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:56 PM

Donn, since you don't mind answering questions (it's your generous spirit, buddy), I wanted to ask you if you had ever experimented with using a mid to high temp lacquer thinner using a good primer coat underneath just to find out if the paint will dry faster, etc . . .