15 replies to this topic

[Jairus]

My friend Chris Clark sent me this Testors kit and said that he wanted me to build a chassis for it. He didn't say anything about how much details to allow so I decided to go whole hog and give the thing full engine and interior detail including opening hood and a full figure driver sitting in the pilot's seat.
Of course Chris will do the final detailing and painting... I am only building the chassis, but thought you guys would like to see it takes to make a chassis that can drive, handle and stay on the track while looking GREAT!

The best place to put the motor is up front when a full interior is planned.


Hood has been hinged and the latches will be tiny neo magnets that will keep it closed securely.


The final motor will be one of the strongest mini motors on the market, the TSR "Falcon" motor (not the Slick7 showing)
which has a very hot wind matched up with Neo magnets. The motor is the standard in modern retro racing today and is the natural selection for this build up.



Some brass rods are laid out on the chassis jig and the axle pins set.


Finished center section with motor mounts and pinion bearing mount.




Onward and upward!

Edited by Jairus, 30 December 2011 - 03:30 AM.

[Jairus]

A quick mockup with the axle and a guide in place.

The connector is from a Revell 1/32 Cobra coupe slot car and while the industry no longer builds front motor cars, you can still find the connector springs here and there. The drive shaft is a motor shaft with the armature laminations and com removed. The bearing is a ball race made for Wing car motors and is well up to the stresses of this "shelf model".
Rear axle and pinion are Parma and the rear axle bearings Germany made ball bearings. Rear wheels are Russkit knock-offs available through Electric Dreams and the rear tires are Silicone. (Forget who made them.)



Here we have the pans constructed in what is known as a "Jail Door" chassis. The movement is known as a ISO or Isolation chassis, meaning the front wheels and the guide move independently up and down depending on the track surface. This means the wheels and guide always remain in contact with the track, and also means that the majority of chassis/car weight is on the guide to ensure good handling and proper current.








Onward and upward!

[Harry P.]

Man, that's some very impressive metal work!

[A.R.C.]

Nice work! And on one of my favorite all time cars to boot.

[Sixx]

That's awesome Jairus!!!! What the heck is that tool you're using to hold the hood in the second pic??

[MonoPed]

Never been into slot cars, but that is impressive! Nice work!

[plasticbutcher]

WOW, Ok now that I have picked my jaw up----- that is pure art Sir. thank you for posting

[Jairus]

Thanks guys!

That's awesome Jairus!!!! What the heck is that tool you're using to hold the hood in the second pic??

Derrick, that is an allen tool for 1/32 scale set screw wheels made by Hudy. Hex head Allen tools are an important part of chassis building.


Well, the nice thing about slot chassis is that they are usually built tough! However, when plastic is used for stuff that sticks out, it can way too easily get knocked off. For things like exhaust pipes it's best to use brass or steel. So I made a set of brass exhaust pipes for the GTO shaped just like the kit parts and located pretty much were the originals are located.





To the end of those pipes I slipped on some larger aluminum tubing as chrome tips, which were lightly polished.
A set of brackets were then soldered to the chassis for mounting the body securely to the chassis in the back...



... while up front a simple set of styrene fingers trap the front axle tube in place both for and aft, and side to side.


Also note some brass added to the rails to simulate the "peek-a-boo" muffler.


Onward and upward!

[Harry P.]

Jairus, you are truly a master craftsman in brass. That chassis is art!

[Sixx]

Jairus, you are truly a master craftsman in brass. That chassis is art!

Man, I second that statement!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the info Jairus! I guess I've never seen those before.

[Jairus]

Well, now that the holidays are done and I got a few other projects out of the way, the Ferrari is back on the bench. Hoping to get the motor plate done enough to send it onto the painter.

[Jairus]

This project is gone as far as I can take it. My friend in Texas will be painting and detailing the rest of the way.
Here is the stance front and rear.






Inserts for the wheels by BWA.



I also hinged the hood and installed some magnets to keep it in the open and closed position.





While the above looks kind of bulky.... most of the underside of Ferrari 250 GTO's were painted flat black. Once all that is shot black (very slimming) it will completely disappear. The NEO magnets are very strong and will keep the hood from fluttering when driven around the track. Easily hold the hood in open position even after paint.


Motor plate almost totally covers the TSR Falcon motor. Just a bit sticking out behind and once the bundle of wires duel distributors are installed, will be nearly invisible.


Guess that's all folks. When Chris posts final pics in a month or so, I will try to get them posted here.

[Scale-Master]

That is so cool on so many levels! Great brass work!

[Gregg]

I'm sorry, but the brass is the wrong color!!!!
Seriously, your work has always amazed me.
I taught you well, my friend!!!!
Well, I taught you how to drink, yes?
No, other way around?
Huh, what time is it?
I porgot.....

[Jairus]

That you did!

Time? Time for COFFEE!

[shadetree]

Any pics of finished car yet?